DIY Engine Rebuild - Part V - Into the Depths....
#1
Thread Starter
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 8,364
Likes: 73
From: Vancouver, BC
DIY Engine Rebuild - Part V - Into the Depths....
Well, I have not posted any progress for a few days (but that does not mean nothing is happen'...). Anyways this installment deals with getting into the guts of the engine. Since I went so far anyways I decided to split the case and check things out. I do not have much info on how the car was treated before I bought it, and for that much more $$ (lots of time though) I could go to the bottom and then I will know 100% what is in this engine...so I took a deep breath and way I went.
First job it to start removing the pistons. You can remove the cam carrier and three pistons as a unit or do it this way...its up to your approach. I prefer to do it in smaller chunks...so first of all you raise the cylnder up and off the piston (carefully...).
The wrist pins are kept in using a nasty tight spring which can come out at high velocity..I can't wait until I have to put the new ones back again....
Pull the wrist pin back a bit and slide it off the rod...here is the rod end poking out. I had to build a tool to get the pin to move...its pretty well machined and nice and tight to the pistron. The wrist pin bushing looks good and no marks/scratches...I start to wonder why I am here...oh yeah because I am picky and want to know it down to the bones...and its raining outside anyways...
Here is the inside of one of the cylinders....the good German Hans handiwork is still visible as the scoring lines down the walls of the cylnder which means that they are in good shape and he was not drinking too much beer that day.
Pulling another P/C off..you work from the front to the rear of the engine so you can get the wrist pins off. Just reverse for assembly right?
Here is the nasty flywheel which is a piece of junk and I will give to a boater friend of mine to be used as an anchor...wait that is too dignified for it...how about a test holder for a piece of exposive?
Removing the pressure relief valve...
Damn stuck and rusty nuts! This one was tough...it was frozen together and the spot did not lend itself to using a grinder (although I could I would rather not with an open case). I ended up using visegrips and my hands-of-steel (Tm) to twist the little bugger off....and then promtly throwing the bolt/nut into the garbage with a little yell of victory when I was done...
Ok, top half of the case is off....its like looking into a ancient tomb. I spent a few minutes in silent prayer (mabye I should have done that a few days ago..) and then dove in.
Here I am checking the backlash of the layshaft gears as a check before it comes apart. It appear to be in spec and everything looks OK so far.
I will continue in the next posting.....
Cheers,
Mike
First job it to start removing the pistons. You can remove the cam carrier and three pistons as a unit or do it this way...its up to your approach. I prefer to do it in smaller chunks...so first of all you raise the cylnder up and off the piston (carefully...).
The wrist pins are kept in using a nasty tight spring which can come out at high velocity..I can't wait until I have to put the new ones back again....
Pull the wrist pin back a bit and slide it off the rod...here is the rod end poking out. I had to build a tool to get the pin to move...its pretty well machined and nice and tight to the pistron. The wrist pin bushing looks good and no marks/scratches...I start to wonder why I am here...oh yeah because I am picky and want to know it down to the bones...and its raining outside anyways...
Here is the inside of one of the cylinders....the good German Hans handiwork is still visible as the scoring lines down the walls of the cylnder which means that they are in good shape and he was not drinking too much beer that day.
Pulling another P/C off..you work from the front to the rear of the engine so you can get the wrist pins off. Just reverse for assembly right?
Here is the nasty flywheel which is a piece of junk and I will give to a boater friend of mine to be used as an anchor...wait that is too dignified for it...how about a test holder for a piece of exposive?
Removing the pressure relief valve...
Damn stuck and rusty nuts! This one was tough...it was frozen together and the spot did not lend itself to using a grinder (although I could I would rather not with an open case). I ended up using visegrips and my hands-of-steel (Tm) to twist the little bugger off....and then promtly throwing the bolt/nut into the garbage with a little yell of victory when I was done...
Ok, top half of the case is off....its like looking into a ancient tomb. I spent a few minutes in silent prayer (mabye I should have done that a few days ago..) and then dove in.
Here I am checking the backlash of the layshaft gears as a check before it comes apart. It appear to be in spec and everything looks OK so far.
I will continue in the next posting.....
Cheers,
Mike
#3
Thread Starter
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 8,364
Likes: 73
From: Vancouver, BC
Okay, lets continue on buring up those wrenches...
Ok, the heart or pump of the engine...that nice large 993 oil pump.
Here is the crank with the rods still attached pulled out of the case. I am sure the crank is embarassed to be put on that nice pink towel....hell I am embarassed to have that in my shop...but it sure sucks up the oil...
OK, now rods off.....
My that case is now looking pretty empty without its crank/layshaft/oil pump etc.
And here are the rods...
Next posting I will post some details of the measurements for my valves/guides...and then some details on some wear that I did find...
Cheers,
Mike
Ok, the heart or pump of the engine...that nice large 993 oil pump.
Here is the crank with the rods still attached pulled out of the case. I am sure the crank is embarassed to be put on that nice pink towel....hell I am embarassed to have that in my shop...but it sure sucks up the oil...
OK, now rods off.....
My that case is now looking pretty empty without its crank/layshaft/oil pump etc.
And here are the rods...
Next posting I will post some details of the measurements for my valves/guides...and then some details on some wear that I did find...
Cheers,
Mike
#4
Mike, I have to stop reading these threads--I'm about to have a nervous breakdown imagining taking apart my engine.
I ~know~ I'd have leftover parts after putting it back together.
(but, I really do enjoy reading these threads on your progress)
I ~know~ I'd have leftover parts after putting it back together.
(but, I really do enjoy reading these threads on your progress)
#7
Great job Mike,
I can imagine how some of this must feel. A mix of anxiety coupled with just get in there and do it, sometimes with bursts of clarity as you dig deeper. Very cool!
Anyhow, my question would be, as in my case, having never torn down an engine before, but having a decent handle on engine mechanics, how doable a job is this? No doubt the BA class would also be a logical prerequisite. But what would you include, to feel comfortable taking on a huge task like this?
Alot appears staight forward, but I seem to be the most intrigued by the setup, measure and calibration part of the teardown/assembly.
Enjoying the journey!
Jeff N.
I can imagine how some of this must feel. A mix of anxiety coupled with just get in there and do it, sometimes with bursts of clarity as you dig deeper. Very cool!
Anyhow, my question would be, as in my case, having never torn down an engine before, but having a decent handle on engine mechanics, how doable a job is this? No doubt the BA class would also be a logical prerequisite. But what would you include, to feel comfortable taking on a huge task like this?
Alot appears staight forward, but I seem to be the most intrigued by the setup, measure and calibration part of the teardown/assembly.
Enjoying the journey!
Jeff N.
Trending Topics
#8
Thread Starter
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 8,364
Likes: 73
From: Vancouver, BC
Originally Posted by jnor10
Anyhow, my question would be, as in my case, having never torn down an engine before, but having a decent handle on engine mechanics, how doable a job is this? No doubt the BA class would also be a logical prerequisite. But what would you include, to feel comfortable taking on a huge task like this?
Alot appears staight forward, but I seem to be the most intrigued by the setup, measure and calibration part of the teardown/assembly.
Jeff N.
Alot appears staight forward, but I seem to be the most intrigued by the setup, measure and calibration part of the teardown/assembly.
Jeff N.
I read everything I could be my hands on several times (Shop Manuals, Bentley Manuals, Spec books, Bruce's book, Wayne Dempsey book), scoured the Internet for several months and took the course. The problem is our 993's are fairly new so their are some special stuff on our engines that is not on other engines...some which makes it easier (like the head nuts are real easy) to problems (like the valve timing).
If you are good with your hands and have experience with tool then go for it. Try handing out at the Pelican Parts engine rebulding forum...lots of good guys there and you will learn a whole bunch about the insides.
Cheers,
Mike
#9
Great photos mike.
It reminds me of my first DIY 911 motor rebuild.
Did you find any wear on the intermediate shaft bearings?
Also, here's a tip" Grab yourself a bag of large rubber bands and put two each though the wrist pins on the conn. rods and attach them to the bare headstuds when you reassemble.
This keeps the rods "floating" and allows you to turn the crank and not have any rods banging around.
Also, use two headstud nuts put on together to keep the jugs in place while installing the pistons. No need for the expensive P tool.
It reminds me of my first DIY 911 motor rebuild.
Did you find any wear on the intermediate shaft bearings?
Also, here's a tip" Grab yourself a bag of large rubber bands and put two each though the wrist pins on the conn. rods and attach them to the bare headstuds when you reassemble.
This keeps the rods "floating" and allows you to turn the crank and not have any rods banging around.
Also, use two headstud nuts put on together to keep the jugs in place while installing the pistons. No need for the expensive P tool.
#10
Thread Starter
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 8,364
Likes: 73
From: Vancouver, BC
Originally Posted by Leland Pate
Great photos mike.
It reminds me of my first DIY 911 motor rebuild.
Did you find any wear on the intermediate shaft bearings?
Also, here's a tip" Grab yourself a bag of large rubber bands and put two each though the wrist pins on the conn. rods and attach them to the bare headstuds when you reassemble.
This keeps the rods "floating" and allows you to turn the crank and not have any rods banging around.
Also, use two headstud nuts put on together to keep the jugs in place while installing the pistons. No need for the expensive P tool.
It reminds me of my first DIY 911 motor rebuild.
Did you find any wear on the intermediate shaft bearings?
Also, here's a tip" Grab yourself a bag of large rubber bands and put two each though the wrist pins on the conn. rods and attach them to the bare headstuds when you reassemble.
This keeps the rods "floating" and allows you to turn the crank and not have any rods banging around.
Also, use two headstud nuts put on together to keep the jugs in place while installing the pistons. No need for the expensive P tool.
Well, to give a peek ahead, yes I did find wear on the intermediate shaft bearings...quite a bit more than I expected. I remember you post and I seem to remember you found the same thing... Its really wear also and not from crap in the oil...it spread across the bearing shell. The shaft is fine. The mains were fine with the thrust bearing having some wear. One of the rod bearings had a small scratch (very small) that is not going to be a problem...I will post pictures in Part VII.
Thanks for the rubber band trick...I saw that somewhere but thanks for reminding me. I also went down to Home Depot and picked up about 3' of very large clear hose...and cut it into 6" sections and used that over each of the rods.
I used some old small sockets and one headstud nut to hold each of the jugs down whle I flipped the motor when taking it apart. I will use that method on the way back up too...
#12
Mike congrats...
I Have been reading your post and wish I had made arrangements to see you as Im in Vancouver this weekend.
Its not even raining anymore, well good luck with putting together, may I sugest cutting a CD with all the pictures and details charge 5.00 for it and give the money to a nice charity organization, like the Porscheaholics Anonimous of North America.
NO!!! better idea yet,sell it for $10.00 and use the money to sue PCA over your rust problem .
Good Luck...its sunny outside.
FRANK
I Have been reading your post and wish I had made arrangements to see you as Im in Vancouver this weekend.
Its not even raining anymore, well good luck with putting together, may I sugest cutting a CD with all the pictures and details charge 5.00 for it and give the money to a nice charity organization, like the Porscheaholics Anonimous of North America.
NO!!! better idea yet,sell it for $10.00 and use the money to sue PCA over your rust problem .
Good Luck...its sunny outside.
FRANK
#15
Thread Starter
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 8,364
Likes: 73
From: Vancouver, BC
Originally Posted by STAR57
better idea yet,sell it for $10.00 and use the money to sue PCA over your rust problem .
FRANK
FRANK