Clutch cost?
#2
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Are you doing it yourself or getting it done? A RS clutch is about $1300 for all the parts. Not sure about the stock clutch. I think labor is about 6-8 hours (just a guess). I have no idea of the stock clutch.
The second part of your question is too open...how many miles on the car, what shape is it in, etc? If its just concerning the clutch and the mileage is up there (like >50,000miles) than I would replace the clutch slave cylnder, maybe the hydralic hose, the bushings/bearings for the clutch fork. I would also inspect the other wear items (like the ends of the clutch fork) so see the overall wear.
If you have a Dual Mass Flywheel then common wisdom is to replace the whole works with a RS setup..its lighter, revs easier and there is less stuff to go wrong.
Cheers,
Mike
The second part of your question is too open...how many miles on the car, what shape is it in, etc? If its just concerning the clutch and the mileage is up there (like >50,000miles) than I would replace the clutch slave cylnder, maybe the hydralic hose, the bushings/bearings for the clutch fork. I would also inspect the other wear items (like the ends of the clutch fork) so see the overall wear.
If you have a Dual Mass Flywheel then common wisdom is to replace the whole works with a RS setup..its lighter, revs easier and there is less stuff to go wrong.
Cheers,
Mike
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
It's a 35,000 mile car I just had inspected that the tech noted that the clutch pedal is high. Does this mean the clutchn is bad? I am an out of state buyer, and wanted to know approx cost.
#4
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Originally Posted by jnx
It's a 35,000 mile car I just had inspected that the tech noted that the clutch pedal is high. Does this mean the clutchn is bad? I am an out of state buyer, and wanted to know approx cost.
#7
I just spent 2k on parts and I'm doing it myself. 2k at a dealer is a hell of a bargain! Guess the labor is free? I would be very suprised if your car needs a clutch with such low miles. Mine has 71k and its the original. I have a 95 so I went with the stock setup. In a 97 you save some bucks and go with the LWF. It does however have some drawbacks so be sure you are ok with it before you go that route. Enjoy!
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#8
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Originally Posted by Porscheologist
I have a 95 so I went with the stock setup. In a 97 you save some bucks and go with the LWF.
What's the diference between a '95 and other years? Can you put a LWF on a '95?
#9
Rennlist Member
Hi Mark,
There's lots of info in the archives on this subject.
Check for "LWF" and look for the threads in the 993 forum.
Most relate to the stalling and noise issues.
There's lots of info in the archives on this subject.
Check for "LWF" and look for the threads in the 993 forum.
Most relate to the stalling and noise issues.
#10
Nordschleife Master
I think its a good negotiating point to plan $2k or so for a clutch replacement. I would side with the others, however.... the clutch pedal is high in all 993s. Clutch life is strictly determined by the skill of the driver... some need replacing at 20k miles, some can go 150k miles and still have the original clutch. I wouldn't replace a clutch until I got the first hint of a slip. Stock or LWF/RS clutch... that's a choice you can make based on lots of threads on this forum.
#11
Instructor
Life of the clutch is not only the driver's skill, but the driving environment. Heavy stop and go commuting takes a toll on a clutch, but wide open country roads in the middle of Outer Chumunga Arizona let you stay in 6th all afternoon w/o wear. Same for brake pads.