c993k

There are ways to slow down rust in 993's if you have to drive them in bad weather.
I found when I was living in Canada where they dump mountains of salt on the roads, cars use to last about 7 years. After that, many panels would rust through and new sheet metal or lot's of welding and bondo would make them last a couple more years. Lot's of places started to spray oil inside the doors and panels and this was a good way to slow the rust down. Later I found some marine products that worked very well. This stuff is is used in just about every metal piece in a boat that stays at sea. I found spraying this stuff in the places that rust seems to start actually stops it right away and prevents it from getting worse. It leaves a coating that doesn't dry. We already know where these places are on a 993 so why not use this stuff all the time as preventive maintainance? https://rennlist.com/forums/newreply.php
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Jay H

If I may, I'll add my $.02...

As a concours judge, I've crawled (way) under more Porsche's than I care to admit. I've judged '50's 356's that have never seen excessive moisture and never have been subjected to salt. The undercarriages are in excellent shape. Resale values on these cars are way above cars that have been subjected to excess moisture or salt. Trying to find a rust free 356 is hard and nice ones are expensive (and the owners of nice ones know that too). Same goes with an early 911. So, there probably are some monetary reasons for keeping cars out of poor conditions.

Just from inspections I've done, I think the Porsche world is starting to see more and more galvanized 911SC's, 3.2 Carrera's and 964's getting some serious rusting issues. The zinc coatings are really helping on these series of cars as compared to the older cars it seems, but even still, once that zinc has sacrificed itself (if exposed, zinc turns to white powder and then flakes away), there is nothing but bare metal left behind for salt to work on. If you've got a stone chip or more serious damage where the zinc plating has been compromised, be sure to repair it in a timely manner.

You asked what areas older cars are rusting in. I've seen lower "B" pillar areas that are showing up with rust. Lower door areas where water can't get out (usually due to clogged drain hole in door) is another area I've seen a few examples of. Headlight buckets, areas below where wipers come through body, front fenders where the lower valances meet the fender, lower "A" pillar areas, rear window lower corners and jack points where lifts have worn through undercoatings are a few typical places for rust to start. Interior floor pans are known to rust where water drains have been plugged and water works it's way inside the car instead of getting vented to the exterior.

The 993 series isn't that old yet, but once 20 years comes upon us, I bet we'll see more and more rust finding it's way into these cars too. I'm a 964 guy and have seen some nasty 964's suffering from rust problems and these cars are just not that old yet.

a17sbn, if you are keeping your car out of the salt and it sees limited rain, that 993 body will probably outlast you. My almost 16 year old 964 has never seen salt and has been rained on only 7 times in the last 13 years. I store the car from October to April or May (the typical salt "season" here in WI) and do so to keep corrosion to a minimum. The undercarriage is very easy to work on and I've noticed no corrosion forming. I get ribbed quite a bit about my 'garage queen' and my excessive behavior about what conditions the car gets exposed to, but even the most die hard drivers will still admit the car looks good when they see it in person (if you like ugly 964's ). Not everyone agrees with my thinking (and that's O.K.), but you're doing the right thing if you want maximum life out of your original paint and bodywork.

Sorry for the intrusion and length,

Jay
90 964

SJB993

Thanks Jay.

Interesting that you mention B pillars and floorpans.

I was recently at the independent Porsche specialist that takes care of my 993 for me, and they showed me an older 911 Targa (I'm not sure how old it was) that had just come back from the body shop. I had had some welding done, including where the B pillar joins the floor area, and both sides of the car had been resprayed (total bill ~$15K!!!!). They weren't happy with what had been done - or in fact hadn't been done - at the bodyshop, and showed me why. All along the drivers's side of the floor (or pasenger side in your case), where the oil lines run, were a series of holes where the floor had rusted through.

It was the sight of that which started me thinking about the life expectancy of my 993.

SJB993

Always proof read before you hit the send button!

"I had had some welding done .... " should have read "It had had some welding done ...."

Fortunately my 993 is still rust-free

Kolbjorn S

One might laugh of that, but I had a rat chewing off a hose in my 993 engine compartment. Fortunately the critter decided not to chew on something fuel/brake/oil-related...

Feehliks

Yes, I have observed this, too. In a FAQ I found the hint to a foam cord originally designated for the 996. Part number 996.541.903.00

You can stuff this cord into the gap between body and screen frame. Maybe use two. Spray everything very generously with silicone.

I have applied it for myself but cannot tell much about experience, yet. See the picture attached.

Felix

Feehliks

My car is sprayed all over underneath with a amber coloured wax called "Tectyl". It is a conservation tool used in many fields including maritime and airplanes. It also helps to protect the blank aluminium parts. They have a golden color now. This was done by Ruf after steam cleaning the car. It looks like the attached picture, which is another car treated the same way.

Another important part is to protect hollow parts of the body. In this case always use a grease product, no wax or paint like stuff! Grease does not harden or dry out and also not flow away. When the car is in the sun it will melt and continue to flow into any part no matter how tiny. In Europe usually a grease called "Mike Sanders" is considered superior.

SJB993

Feehliks, I've been considering getting the underside of my car steam cleaned so that I can have a close look at its condition. I'll try to find out if that Tectyl treatment is available in the UK.

I have done a trawl through the forums for older 911s, and comfortingly there isn't too much mention of serious rust, but I did find a couple of pictures which illustrate what might happen. The blue car is a 964, not sure what the silver one is.

GabiOsz

Steve, let me know if you find anyone that can do the Tectyl style treatment here. I'll ask about too.

Would you advocate replacing the engine tray when to roads are salty?

SJB993

Gabi, I've read the posts about removing the engine tray. I decided to keep mine on, mainly to stop water, mud and in the winter salt, from getting thrown up into all the nooks and crannies.

Most of the posts seem to suggest the reason for removing it is to help with engine cooling, and thereby increase the life of the engine. As you may have gathered from what I've said earlier in this post, my goal is to keep the car for as long as I am able to drive it, and in my case preserving the bodyshell is the top priority. All the other bits, engine, transmission, suspension, etc. can be easily repaired/replaced (at a cost), but rusted bodywork is a different matter.

Given that it's now winter, and temperatures are low, I think I'd be inclined to put it back on. But I'm no expert!

Feehliks

Tectyl is a Valvoline-brand. Maybe that helps. I think it is not too hard to apply this if you can get underneath the car and are not afraid of disasembling a few platic parts.

For winter use I would leave the tray on. As stated, for the simple reason that it prevents dirt and salt from sprayed all over the engine compartment. Removing is something I would consider when living in the desert, but definitely not in Europe.

Regarding your samples:



It would be good to know more about that "964". Is that a bad repair of an accident? Cheap sheets welded in? Bad paint job? Hwo many miles?

The other silver one is most likely something pre 1989. It could be a pre 1981 car with little or no galvanization. Pre 1989 cars have the problems, that there are no inner plastic fenders. Dirt is sprayed everywhere in the wheelhouse as far as to the B-pillar. Both, 964 and 993 have inner fenders.

My dad used to own a 1969 911 T in the 70ies as a daily driver. The car virtually rusted away.

Best regards

Felix

SJB993

Gabi, this sounds like the stuff that Feehliks used, Tectyl 506 - MD Multipurpose

http://tectyl.valvolineeurope.com

I'll email them to enquire about retail outlets and professionals who apply it.

GabiOsz

Excellent, let me know about the outlets, I'm sure I know a few people that could apply it.

TB993tt

Can you post your findings on here - I too am interested in this

Bull

Mike, I agree with not driving them during the bad weather events. I too drive my 4X4 at those times. But where I live, there are many nice, sunny, clear, dry (but cold!) days during each winter month. That is when my cars get driven during that time of the year. I have done the same with every p-car I have owned, from 356s (including on Parade Concours winning Roadster) to early 911s to my 993s. Never a serious rust problem IF they were properly prepared, cleaned and maintained.