Mike J

Nice job Dennis! Its nice to see what the part looks like after talking on the phone...you were right to change it out, it could be repaired but you could not trust it after that.

I did not have a crush washer on my valve when I took it out but I certainly put antiseize when I put it back. I also tightened it up but not too tight given it will be taken out again.

Looks like you have the usual amount of carbon on your exhaust ports but the valve looks like just the right color. You engine looks like its in pretty good shape. Do all the valves look the same?

Cheers,

Mike

C4S_fan

Yup, they're pretty much all the same. I'm going to take some more pictures as the flush continues.

Paul902

When I tried to do mine last winter I had a wrench made up. It was a good fit but I could not get the valve off either. I felt that I dare not use more force on the wrench than I did, so I guess some of them are really tight. I knew that my mechanic had had my valve off 10000 km earlier so assumed it was in OK shape. I squirted the cleaner in each of the 6 ports below with a turkey-baster arrangement, and will have the valve changed next time the engine is out.

kkim

Dennis,

Looking at the cracked distributor, I find it hard to understand how a stuck SAI valve could break that part off. Could it be that you were pushing against the aluminum pipe when trying to loosen and the resistance you felt was the pipe? Not trying to beat a dead horse, but trying to understand how that "ear" of the distributor cracked when the valve does not exert any force on that particular area.

Dan V

In fact, you can see marks on the lobe and pipe connector-thingy that look to me were left by the crow-foot part that sticks out, where the extension connects to it. I'd guess it happened when they stripped a couple of the corners of the SAI valve. Probably the only reason the same thing didn't happen to me was because I had the crow-foot on the opposite way when it broke free. The trick to removing the SAI check valve is to use a peice of wood or something to brace the extension vertically so all the force gets directed in a twisting motion, rather than twisting/deflecting. I used a smallish claw hammer, with the handle propped up next to the power-steering res., and the extension resting on the narrow part of the hammer head. I would have had it out in 15 minutes if I had figured it out from the beginning .

ecobb993

Great writeup C4S_Fan. Looks like a "fun" project, which I thought I'd tackle after reading some of the other threads on the subject.

But after reading your experience, and that of a few others' here, think I'll stick with spending the 90 seconds or so every few months reading and resetting the CE. Then have the check valve replaced in several years when it's time to do a valve job or other project requiring engine drop.

Let's see, 90 secs X 4 times a year X, say, 5 years = 30 minutes. Yep, just what I thought, saved myself about 9 1/2 hours.

C4S_fan

Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear.

I'm fairly certain it broke as a consequence of the crows foot "socket" (where the extension plugs into) hit the lobe on the way around (as we got the SAI vavle to finally break loose)

I'll take a picture and show you what I mean when I get the new one tomorrow!

C4S_fan

Assuming you don't crack this housing, the DIY is relatively straightforward.

Stated another way: don't screw up and you'll be fine

kkim

My apologies... rereading your original post, you were quite clear... blame it on my por reading comprenshion.
Words and pictures at the same time have a habit of confusing me.

Curious... cost of the cracked piece?

campbesl

Dennis,

Very good writeup. I can now understand why I felt like my input during our phone calls was rather lame. I didn't have such problems as you experienced so I wasn't able to provide useful input. My luck I guess!

I was unable to read this whole thread until now due to preparations, experiencing the fun, and after-actions of hurricane Wilma. (My office is still without power so I'm sitting home typing with my daughter slobbering down my arm. )

Please keep us appraised of your progress on the project. GOOD LUCK!

Scott

C4S_fan

I've fit the new air distributor into place... I've screwed down one of the flare nuts of the aluminum hoses, but the other does about 2-3 threads and then gets stuck (when I screw it in by hand).

You can imagine I'm a bit gun-shy to force it for fear of stripping/crossthreading the housing.

I think more patience is required.. I'll play with it again tomorrow

campbesl

Viper Bob seems to know all about such things. Maybe if he's lurking out there he'll chime in...?

...?

...?

epj993

Might check the threading on the distributor - there may be a burr or nick on either of the threads.

C4S_fan

Yea, that's what I'm guessing... taking it out and putting it back in though.. huge PIA.

The other one had the same problem, but as I wiggled the distributor around, it finally screwed right in without problem. Which makes me think that it has to be aligned *perfectly*.

... or I have a burr/nick on one of the threads

C4S_fan

Update: I tried and tried to get the tube bolted in, I could only get a few threads in and it would stop. Again, I didn't want to strip it.

Randy & Scott (two rennlisters) came over and had a go at it. We finally agreed to pull it out... sure enough, one of the threads DOES have a burr! It looks like it came that way from the factory.. argh!!

We headed to the parts departments at the dealership and the parts guy told me to come back and talk to the Service Manager on Monday... I'm hoping that this is going to be a painless return and not a "well, it didn't leave the shop that way" experience.