If you want cheap R-compounds, get 'em while you can!!!
08-19-2005, 08:59 PM
#31
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Concerning tire break-in/heat cycling, notes from Hoosier Tires:
Proper break-in will not affect initial performance but will increase the competitive life of the tire.
The procedure can be broken down into phases.
1st phase: The initial run
2nd phase: The length of the time the tire is allowed to "cure"
The Initial Run
The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate. Optimally, the tires should be removed or have the car jacked up during this cooling.
During this process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 3-5 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 2-4 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible temperature.
"Cure" Time
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not "the next day"). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.
Proper tire management is a difficult process. To accomplish this almost always requires a second set of wheels. The payoff is greatly increased competitive tire life.
Following the recommended break-in procedure will require a lot of planning to make it work. The benefits to doing it right include greatly increased tire life as well as consistent performance and durability under stress. Please make an effort to educate your team on the importance of this. It can save you a lot of money.
Proper break-in will not affect initial performance but will increase the competitive life of the tire.
The procedure can be broken down into phases.
1st phase: The initial run
2nd phase: The length of the time the tire is allowed to "cure"
The Initial Run
The first laps for the tire are critical for setting up the durability and competitive life. The first session should consist of 10-15 minutes of running. The early part of the session should be run at an easy pace, with the speed gradually increased until the end of the session. The final lap should be run at the fastest possible speed. The intent is to achieve maximum tire temp on the last lap. At this point the car should be brought in and the tires allowed to cool at a normal rate. Optimally, the tires should be removed or have the car jacked up during this cooling.
During this process, the inflation pressure should be 3-5 psi higher than you would normally use. The best progression would have the driver taking 3-5 laps to accomplish this break-in. Each lap should be approximately 2-4 seconds a lap faster than the previous lap. The goal is to have the tire temp as high as possible on the last lap without "shocking" the tire during the warm up laps. In essence, no wheelspin, late braking, or sliding. The last lap should be at, or very close, the maximum possible temperature.
"Cure" Time
After completing the initial run phase, the length of time the tire is allowed to set is possibly more important. The barest minimum for this process to be beneficial is 24 hours. (Not "the next day"). Any less than this is a waste of time. The best situation would allow a week before using the tire again.
Proper tire management is a difficult process. To accomplish this almost always requires a second set of wheels. The payoff is greatly increased competitive tire life.
Following the recommended break-in procedure will require a lot of planning to make it work. The benefits to doing it right include greatly increased tire life as well as consistent performance and durability under stress. Please make an effort to educate your team on the importance of this. It can save you a lot of money.
08-19-2005, 09:27 PM
#33
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I've seen similar at most manufacturer sites, that is, heat cycling R-compounds before hard use. I know Yoko and BFG have it. Don't recall what their "cure" period might be, though.
08-19-2005, 11:02 PM
#34
I don't see why any true R-compound would be much different in terms of proper heat cycling affecting usable life - ltcjmramos's advice should be valid for any track tire.
However, ceboyd may be partially correct, in that I don't consider the DSSRs to be a true R-compound. In my experience they are only marginally stickier than a high performance street tire (Pilot Sports, S02As, etc), and I think their 60 treadwear rating is deceptive. I have driven a similarly setup 993 with MPSCs (same 60 treadwear), and there is simply no comparison - MPSCs are much much better.
For reference, my lap times at Moroso were on average 1:39.0 with DSSRs, compared to average 1:40.5 on Pilot Sports (not PS2s) in a completely stock 95/993 (with crap brake pads)
If you're looking for an R compound to transform your track experience, look elsewhere - but if you're looking for a cheap set of tires to burn up without remorse, these are the best ticket in town!
However, ceboyd may be partially correct, in that I don't consider the DSSRs to be a true R-compound. In my experience they are only marginally stickier than a high performance street tire (Pilot Sports, S02As, etc), and I think their 60 treadwear rating is deceptive. I have driven a similarly setup 993 with MPSCs (same 60 treadwear), and there is simply no comparison - MPSCs are much much better.
For reference, my lap times at Moroso were on average 1:39.0 with DSSRs, compared to average 1:40.5 on Pilot Sports (not PS2s) in a completely stock 95/993 (with crap brake pads)
If you're looking for an R compound to transform your track experience, look elsewhere - but if you're looking for a cheap set of tires to burn up without remorse, these are the best ticket in town!
08-20-2005, 01:52 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by pcar964
If you're looking for an R compound to transform your track experience, look elsewhere - but if you're looking for a cheap set of tires to burn up without remorse, these are the best ticket in town!
agreed.. but I do feel the DSSR is better than the average street tire.... they are indeed not as good as the MPSCs but for the price, I'm not complaining!!!
08-20-2005, 11:56 AM
#36
On the plus side, I'll say that the DSSRs are quite durable even for highway use - great tire to drive to/from the track on if you don't have a spare set of wheels.
I doubt, however, that they will sell very well if they decide to reintroduce them to the US market at double the price, which is being speculated... Their current low price and relative performance make them an attractive option - but for the same money, they are simply outclassed by MPSCs or PZero Corsas
I doubt, however, that they will sell very well if they decide to reintroduce them to the US market at double the price, which is being speculated... Their current low price and relative performance make them an attractive option - but for the same money, they are simply outclassed by MPSCs or PZero Corsas
08-20-2005, 01:23 PM
#37
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do the newest Pzero Corsa dry rot as fast as the previous generation? I have stayed far away from them after having a set dry rot on me in 4 months of being on the car from date of purchase 
it was scary dry rot cracks too!!! (would not have passed tech at the track)
it was scary dry rot cracks too!!! (would not have passed tech at the track)
