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Stalling issues
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From: Bay Area
Stalling issues
My car has developed a pretty bad case of stalling when coming to a stop and stepping the clutch in at the same time. Happens when warm or cold. This is in combination with check engine codes p1127/p1129. I've already changed the O2 sensors for those engine codes but i'm still getting the codes. From the archives, i've gathered that the engine codes indicate a rich fuel/air mixture condition and that the stalling issues could be from a worn distributor cap, cylinder head temp sensor, bad dme, bad ISV cable, or leaky fuel injectors.
Some info about my car usage. 70k on the odometer. Daily driver, with a daily commute of about 20 miles round trip. Car gets fully warmed up each way. Oil consumption is at about 1 quart every 1500 miles or more. Valve guide wear was repaired about 15k ago.
My question is, where should i start the trouble shooting and is there a DIY online somewhere?
The 993 is still quite new to me so I may end up letting a shop handle all the issues. Are there any recommendations for a porsche repair shop near Arcadia, CA 91006 (Near Pasadena, in Los Angeles)? Thanks guys...i'm loosing sleep here.
Some info about my car usage. 70k on the odometer. Daily driver, with a daily commute of about 20 miles round trip. Car gets fully warmed up each way. Oil consumption is at about 1 quart every 1500 miles or more. Valve guide wear was repaired about 15k ago.
My question is, where should i start the trouble shooting and is there a DIY online somewhere?
The 993 is still quite new to me so I may end up letting a shop handle all the issues. Are there any recommendations for a porsche repair shop near Arcadia, CA 91006 (Near Pasadena, in Los Angeles)? Thanks guys...i'm loosing sleep here.
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Why not just go out and clean the ISV valve and see if it does help? Very easy DIY... hardest part is figuring out how to remove those pesky clamps. 
It most likely will help with the stalling issue and even if it doesn't, you will have eliminated one thing which could likely be causing your problems.
Dumb question... but you did have the codes cleared and then they reappeared after the O2 sensors were changed, correct? Also, how was the valve guide wear repaired? Top end rebuild? It's just that 1500/qt sounds a bit high if the top end was rebuilt 15k ago.
Other than the stalling problem, how is the car running?
And cheer up... things could be worse... your CEL codes could be for the dreaded SAI problem. Now that's something to lose sleep over.
It most likely will help with the stalling issue and even if it doesn't, you will have eliminated one thing which could likely be causing your problems. Dumb question... but you did have the codes cleared and then they reappeared after the O2 sensors were changed, correct? Also, how was the valve guide wear repaired? Top end rebuild? It's just that 1500/qt sounds a bit high if the top end was rebuilt 15k ago.
Other than the stalling problem, how is the car running?
And cheer up... things could be worse... your CEL codes could be for the dreaded SAI problem. Now that's something to lose sleep over.
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From: Bay Area
I believe it was a top end rebuild. Here is a description of what was done according to the $8,378.53 bill.
- Remove and install engine and gearbox, disassemble engine for valve job. Perform valve job (replace all guides and guide seals) assemble complete engine including cleaning out all air ports for secondary air injection system and replacement of diverter check valve, replace drive belt tension sensor, replace crankshaft pulley seal and intermediate plate o-rings.
The repairs were done while the car belonged to the previous owner at Callas Rennsport in Socal. Yes, the codes were cleared after the O2 sensor change and came back a few times now. Is 1500+ / quart really that high considering it is 90% short trips at about 8-10 miles a trip in city driving?
Other than the stalling issue and the check engine code, the car runs very well. I'm going to tackle the ISV issue this weekend...this is driving me nuts.
Thanks for the replies thus far.
- Remove and install engine and gearbox, disassemble engine for valve job. Perform valve job (replace all guides and guide seals) assemble complete engine including cleaning out all air ports for secondary air injection system and replacement of diverter check valve, replace drive belt tension sensor, replace crankshaft pulley seal and intermediate plate o-rings.
The repairs were done while the car belonged to the previous owner at Callas Rennsport in Socal. Yes, the codes were cleared after the O2 sensor change and came back a few times now. Is 1500+ / quart really that high considering it is 90% short trips at about 8-10 miles a trip in city driving?
Other than the stalling issue and the check engine code, the car runs very well. I'm going to tackle the ISV issue this weekend...this is driving me nuts.
Thanks for the replies thus far.
Last edited by MrRoboto; Jul 8, 2005 at 03:33 AM.
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From: Bay Area
Well, I got to the ISV this past weekend (saturday). I used almost an entire can of brake cleaner and the ISV valve ended up looking almost new. Anyhow, I did a good amount of driving over the weekend and so far so good. Even the check engine light hasn't lit up yet...i'm crossing my fingers on this one. Thanks guys.
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