Parking brake problems
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Parking brake problems
Just took a short errand-drive and noticed an odd problem. As I was driving, the "!" and the park brake light kept coming on. No braking was noted. Brakes have been squealing, but I attributed that to the fact that I drove it on Friday with a little rain falling.
The solution seemed to be to shake the parking brake lever and push the button in - again, without actually engaging the brake.
A further problem, was when I parked, pulled the lever up, the lights did NOT come on. It was impossible to put the top up. Again, shaking and repeated engagement of the brake lever finally made the lights come on and allowed me to raise the top.
Any suggestions?
The solution seemed to be to shake the parking brake lever and push the button in - again, without actually engaging the brake.
A further problem, was when I parked, pulled the lever up, the lights did NOT come on. It was impossible to put the top up. Again, shaking and repeated engagement of the brake lever finally made the lights come on and allowed me to raise the top.
Any suggestions?
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From: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
I had the same problem. There are copper contacts attached to the back of the parking brakes lever. When you pull the brake on it rotates these contacts together to activate the e-brake light; down it breaks the contact. After following the directions on Robins site to remove to console, I was able to remove the brake lever. I cleaned and readjusted the contacts. It took me several attempts until I got them adjusted right but I have little mechanical ability. It is an easy fix. Good luck.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Thanks guys! Sounds like an "easy" fix, once you get in there.
Would this be the same maneuver that would be necessary to change to a cf/ aluminum brake lever?
Anyone in Saint Louis willing to give me their help as I am completely afraid to damage my car?
Would this be the same maneuver that would be necessary to change to a cf/ aluminum brake lever?
Anyone in Saint Louis willing to give me their help as I am completely afraid to damage my car?
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From: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
Originally Posted by rkb
Thanks guys! Sounds like an "easy" fix, once you get in there.
Would this be the same maneuver that would be necessary to change to a cf/ aluminum brake lever?
Anyone in Saint Louis willing to give me their help as I am completely afraid to damage my car?
Would this be the same maneuver that would be necessary to change to a cf/ aluminum brake lever?
Anyone in Saint Louis willing to give me their help as I am completely afraid to damage my car?
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From: Cave Creek, AZ
Just did this job for the second time on Sun. night. Same symptoms. The tricky part for me was reinserting that thick pin that holds the lever to everything. The problem that was causing the light to go on was the contact piece had come loose and slid down. So it was making contact at the bottom of the long copper piece on the end of the lever. Once I slid it back up and tightened the tiny bolt in there, it was fine. Of course, I had pulled everything apart before I figured out this was the problem, so I went ahead and ran some sandpaper over the contacts and bent the lever one forward a little. Now it works perfectly. Took me about 45 min. and 30 min. of that was trying to get that damn big pin back in.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Las Vegas, NV
I must just be completely retarded. Got the console off with no problems - see that this loose copper piece is the problem (just like everyone had predicted).
But now I can't get the piece back on!
Does it go 'over' the black plastic piece or 'into' it somehow?
Any tricks? The wire insulation keeps getting hung up on the metal surround and I can't figure out the correct alignment. I've looked at the pictures on the other thread several (million) times and still can't figure it out!
I really do not want to go to the dealer over this.
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From: Cave Creek, AZ
Don't even think of going to a pro for this. Unplug the spade connector and maneuver the plastic piece into place. It will take some skill. You may have to push the pin out of the lever to pull it forward. Once you get the plastic piece where you want it. Use a small piece of duct tape to hold it in place, while you reinsert and thread the tiny bolt that holds it in. This is best performed by a small child or petite Asian nurse. Or do it yourself and let them hand you beer and smokes..
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Rick -
Your discription makes no sense.
Shouldn't I be able to do this without dismantling anything?
I assume you mean that little bolt on the passenger's side - why do I have to take the plastic piece out to get the copper piece back on?
Spade connector? - if you mean the wire that's attached to the copper piece - it's welded on.
Pin/ lever???
Your discription makes no sense.
Shouldn't I be able to do this without dismantling anything?
I assume you mean that little bolt on the passenger's side - why do I have to take the plastic piece out to get the copper piece back on?
Spade connector? - if you mean the wire that's attached to the copper piece - it's welded on.
Pin/ lever???
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From: Cave Creek, AZ
Ok, there are two copper pieces. One slides into the plastic piece that is toward the rear of the car. That copper piece very often falls out and causes the problem you're having. It's not held there by anything. The spade connector is not at all welded. It comes right off and makes life a lot easier when you want to move that plastic piece around. Pry it off with a flat tip, if you must. The other copper piece is much larger and is connected to the end of the hand lever. I think it is riveted on there. In my case, the very bottom of that piece had been bent up and, in addition to the plastic piece being loose and sloshing around, made contact and tripped the light.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Yay! Finally did it right!
As soon as I finally understood that the wired copper piece goes INTO the black plastic piece, not OVER it, this fix was done in about 2 minutes.
My suggestions for future sufferers:
- Use a flashlight to see the goove in the black plastic piece.
- A flat-head screwdriver really helps re-seat the copper piece.
- Nothing other than the surrounding trim needs to be removed.
- The images at this thread really help (especially the last one):
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=tray
Thanks again Rennlist!
As soon as I finally understood that the wired copper piece goes INTO the black plastic piece, not OVER it, this fix was done in about 2 minutes.
My suggestions for future sufferers:
- Use a flashlight to see the goove in the black plastic piece.
- A flat-head screwdriver really helps re-seat the copper piece.
- Nothing other than the surrounding trim needs to be removed.
- The images at this thread really help (especially the last one):
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=tray
Thanks again Rennlist!