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Thanks Bill... I got it. Any chance you can find the porsche part number? I'm putting in the order for all the hardware through Pelican and it will save me a trip to the hardware store to have everything shipped together for the install. Any other words of wisdom (I did read your two pelican threads as well)? Looks like you applied some sort of paint or sealant after you drilled the holes (what did you use to prevent rust?). Thanks again.
Thanks Bill... I've read both your install threads on Pelican. They were very helpful; in fact, I probably wouldn't even think about attempting the install myself without the excellent writeup. However, it doesn't show the part number that I'm looking for (#18 in the diagram below)
I think I was able to find it (that is if it is the same part that is plastic rivet used to secure the plastic trim piece along the front of the trunk)
999-507-427-40-OEM PLASTIC RIVET or EXPANDER NUT 6.3 ($0.75)
Last edited by ninjabones; 01-23-2009 at 10:02 AM.
So, I finally got around to the install. I got tired of waiting for the last part (rear wheel well plate 993.504.481.00). Has been on back order for 2 months. So I created a poor-man solution, which turned out rather nicely.
Went to pep boys and bought a set of large truck mud flaps ($8). Used cardboard to create a template, and voi la. Not too shabby. Now on to the left side.
I have had my 993 RS for 20 years now, and the clear stone guards on the front faces of the rear fenders have gone cloudy in appearance and have a matt finish (photos attached). The stone guards would probably benefit from being replaced.
My concern is that, as the RS sideskirts overlap the stone guards as shown in the photos, in order to effect the replacement I would need to loosen the rears of sideskirts to pull them temporarily away from the fenders.
I don't know how viable this is. All I read online (Rennlist and Pelican) suggest that there are some fragile tabs associated with the skirt mountings. I am reluctant to try replacing the stone guards if I am going to mess up the skirt attachments.
Has anyone faced a similar issue? Any guidance would be gratefully received.
Best wishes
Grogger
Last edited by grogger993; 04-15-2024 at 11:25 AM.
I would start by removing the screw that attaches the top of the skirt to the fender and see how much the skirt pulls away from the fender. There is also one lower which attaches to the fender liner and can be seen in your second photo, directly right of the big "N" in "MICHELIN".
Between those two, you likely do not have to undo any of the clips on the underside of the skirt. Should be enough room to work.
I would start by removing the screw that attaches the top of the skirt to the fender and see how much the skirt pulls away from the fender. There is also one lower which attaches to the fender liner and can be seen in your second photo, directly right of the big "N" in "MICHELIN".
Between those two, you likely do not have to undo any of the clips on the underside of the skirt. Should be enough room to work.
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply.
I don't have the car at the house, but at the weekend I will remove all visible screws from the rear of the side skirt and see if I can gently pry the skirt away from the fender.
Old post, but just rereading some of this.. I would probably cut that edge and leave in place. Remove using one of the heating methods to soften the old stone guards, and then use a curved X-acto to carefully cut around the area trapped by the RS side skirt, leaving the original stone guard under the RS side skirt. If the side skirts are still properly, bonded and looking good, I wouldn't mess with them. I would just remove the old stone guards (while leaving the trapped edge) and install a new pair with that edge pre-cut off.. Considering how tricky it can be to remove and install the skirts, especially if it involves double-sided, tape and hardware, etc... To figure out what the shape you need to pre-cut, purchased a set of stone guards, trace one on a piece of pattern paper, and then use it as a guide to figure out the cut area. By the way, if you were replacing original stone guards, there's so many better clear or colored martial PPF options now that come pre-cut.. Hard to get my head around Porsche originally making all the different stone guards in matching body colors, when clear worked really well. Maybe they didn't have a good clear back then?
Old post, but just rereading some of this.. I would probably cut that edge and leave in place. Remove using one of the heating methods to soften the old stone guards, and then use a curved X-acto to carefully cut around the area trapped by the RS side skirt, leaving the original stone guard under the RS side skirt. If the side skirts are still properly, bonded and looking good, I wouldn't mess with them. I would just remove the old stone guards (while leaving the trapped edge) and install a new pair with that edge pre-cut off.. Considering how tricky it can be to remove and install the skirts, especially if it involves double-sided, tape and hardware, etc... To figure out what the shape you need to pre-cut, purchased a set of stone guards, trace one on a piece of pattern paper, and then use it as a guide to figure out the cut area. By the way, if you were replacing original stone guards, there's so many better clear or colored martial PPF options now that come pre-cut.. Hard to get my head around Porsche originally making all the different stone guards in matching body colors, when clear worked really well. Maybe they didn't have a good clear back then?
From memory, I think that back in the day Porsche did coloured stone guards only in silver and white and that for all other paint colours clear ones were fitted. As for my problem with dulled (clear) stone guards, I got them polished up when the paint was polished and they responded very well, with the opacity and dullness virtually gone. I am sure newly fitted guards would be even better, but the improvement was such that I didn't go to the expense and hassle of trying to remove and replace the old guards.
01-22-2009 | 09:06 PM
