CDR 220 install question
#1
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Has anyone replace an existing Becker tape deck with a CDR220? I can't quite get it to fit and was wondering if I needed to remove the mounting cage. If so, what should I do with the alarm connection on the cage so the radio anti-theft function of the alarm will work?
If not, how did you get it to fit? It seems *really* tight.
(related threads: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...threadid=88630 , https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=220+install)
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Has anyone replace an existing Becker tape deck with a CDR220? I can't quite get it to fit and was wondering if I needed to remove the mounting cage. If so, what should I do with the alarm connection on the cage so the radio anti-theft function of the alarm will work?
If not, how did you get it to fit? It seems *really* tight.
(related threads: https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...threadid=88630 , https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ht=220+install)
#2
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I had a similiar experience when installing the CDR-220. That last inch requires you to reach up behind/underneath and open up the rear mounts so that the cdr-220 will slide into the tabs. It doesn't take much, but the fit is *very* tight.
The glove box should come out to give you more room to wiggle and find the right leverage point to get the radio in.
It fits as others have, along with myself have made the upgrade.
good luck,
-travis
The glove box should come out to give you more room to wiggle and find the right leverage point to get the radio in.
It fits as others have, along with myself have made the upgrade.
good luck,
-travis
#3
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Yes, you need to remove the cage. The CDR220 does not require it (and the anti-theft worked fine?). Call becker and they'll reformat the displace face for the 993 angle for $50.
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Dennis
No experience w/the CDR220, but the anti-theft (green) wire is for a normally OPEN circuit. The oem 993 radios use a cage w/a tab that is NOT grounded unless the radio is removed. If you attach the wire to a ground, such as the radio case or a "normal" cage you will get a "tripped circuit" error signal from the alarm sustem. You can leave the green wire detached which will work fine, but your radio will not be protected. There's a work around which I used to connect my Alpine head unit to the alarm system if you're interested. However, I'll be away through Sunday so it'll be next week.
Here's some detail & a pic from one of the threads you linked above:
Alarm connection for radio explained.
No experience w/the CDR220, but the anti-theft (green) wire is for a normally OPEN circuit. The oem 993 radios use a cage w/a tab that is NOT grounded unless the radio is removed. If you attach the wire to a ground, such as the radio case or a "normal" cage you will get a "tripped circuit" error signal from the alarm sustem. You can leave the green wire detached which will work fine, but your radio will not be protected. There's a work around which I used to connect my Alpine head unit to the alarm system if you're interested. However, I'll be away through Sunday so it'll be next week.
Here's some detail & a pic from one of the threads you linked above:
Alarm connection for radio explained.
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Dennis,
Moved from US to GB and sold my C4S, so have been an infreqent visitor.
I did the CDR 220 and CDC 3 install myself using the Becker "B" stock parts with a significant saving over new.
Happy to add more to this if needed.
By the way, C4S is very rare in GB, and the prices are very high being £42k-ish, which translates to $78k at today's exchange rate. I wish I hadn't sold up!
Nick
Moved from US to GB and sold my C4S, so have been an infreqent visitor.
I did the CDR 220 and CDC 3 install myself using the Becker "B" stock parts with a significant saving over new.
Happy to add more to this if needed.
By the way, C4S is very rare in GB, and the prices are very high being £42k-ish, which translates to $78k at today's exchange rate. I wish I hadn't sold up!
Nick
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SCMomentum, yes, it can be done. I'm running the stock head unit and cd changer through an amp, crossovers and new speakers. Next step is a second amp and sub, all WITHOUT cutting wires or drilling holes.
Why did I do it? I wanted the car to look totally stock, and be easily put back to stock. You can't see anything in my car, even under the bonnet. If you look at the tweeter pods and know what the stock one looks like, you'll see a very slight difference.
Why did I do it? I wanted the car to look totally stock, and be easily put back to stock. You can't see anything in my car, even under the bonnet. If you look at the tweeter pods and know what the stock one looks like, you'll see a very slight difference.
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Check with Mark in AK... he did the switch between units and the faceplate swap. The faceplate swap was pretty amazing in terms of daylight visibility.
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I used the CDR 220 as well with an aftermarket amp and component speakers. Amp is under passenger seat and crossovers are in the door pockets, speakers are mounted behind the hi-fi panels (tweeter and woofer) I bought the adapter from Becker NA to allow the use of RCA interconnects between amp and HU.
Trying to get rid of some last remnants of a ground loop (alt whine) with some twisted pair interconnects. Will it work? Dunno, we'll see.
Hope that helps,
-travis
PS. I know this maybe a marginal product, but has any one tried the Clarion SRV303 or the Kenwood KSC-SW1
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MV4umCf...00&I=020SRV303
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MV4umCf...00&I=113KSCSW1
Trying to get rid of some last remnants of a ground loop (alt whine) with some twisted pair interconnects. Will it work? Dunno, we'll see.
Hope that helps,
-travis
PS. I know this maybe a marginal product, but has any one tried the Clarion SRV303 or the Kenwood KSC-SW1
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MV4umCf...00&I=020SRV303
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MV4umCf...00&I=113KSCSW1
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SC, I have Xtant amp and Focal Crossovers under the bonnet in a mount rack that looks kind of like a strut bar that lays in front of the gas tank, under the carpet. If wanted, it could be mounted over the carpeting for the 'bling' factor.
I have Focal K2 seperates in the doors with all new wiring, the stock was not touched. There are 2 Navaro line level converters from the deck to the amp. I have the stock rears powered from the stock deck as fill at very low volume so the soundstage is foward. No humming, alt whine, zip.
The system is totally stealth. Putting groceries away, the lurking lowlifes can't see it. Unless you know exactly what the stock speakers look like, you'll never know they were replaced.
If I decide to add a sub, it will also be an Xtant amp. As for sub enclosure, there are so many options I have'nt decided. I'm thinking something I could pull out if I need the storage area, but the installer is talking about fiberglass enclosure that will raise the seats by a couple of inches covered in factory carpeting so it looks stock. Unfortunatly, my daughter still likes to ride back there and she needs the headroom.
I have Focal K2 seperates in the doors with all new wiring, the stock was not touched. There are 2 Navaro line level converters from the deck to the amp. I have the stock rears powered from the stock deck as fill at very low volume so the soundstage is foward. No humming, alt whine, zip.
The system is totally stealth. Putting groceries away, the lurking lowlifes can't see it. Unless you know exactly what the stock speakers look like, you'll never know they were replaced.
If I decide to add a sub, it will also be an Xtant amp. As for sub enclosure, there are so many options I have'nt decided. I'm thinking something I could pull out if I need the storage area, but the installer is talking about fiberglass enclosure that will raise the seats by a couple of inches covered in factory carpeting so it looks stock. Unfortunatly, my daughter still likes to ride back there and she needs the headroom.