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I don't remember if there are any ecu issues on a '96 obdII cars. Zero issues on my '97 with stalling, sputtering, etc....Honestly, after adding the LWF and RS clutch I am amazed by the fact that there is even a debate about this modification. For OBDII cars this is a tremedous upgrade (and can also be done for OBDI with chip tuning).
Take out a failure prone, heavy flywheel and add a higher quality, lighter, more reliable flywheel and clutch that is cheaper than OEM. What's not to like about that? Oh yeah, wait till you drive it. Its like having a different car. BTW, here comes the slippery slope.... while everything is out of the car, its a great time to add the RS motor and tranny mounts.
Alex I couldn't agree with you more. Picked up my TT from VB last Saturday and drove it down to Paso Robles for the night, and LA Sunday via backroad twisties over to the I-5. Among other mods, I had him install the LWFW and clutch. It definitely has a different action from the previous stock unit. It engages quite a bit further out, when the pedal is almost all the way up. I don't find driving it to be any big deal, it's just different. You adapt to the new feeling, it might take a few tries just like driving a different car.
Now about the benefits. You can most definitely feel how much faster it spools up. Whether just reving it up in neutral , or goosing it, it makes quite a difference. The engine simply breathes faster with less weight attached. I did this replacement for the performance gains. But I did see my stock plate and it was almost gone at 39k miles.
I too love what the LWF/RS clutch has done for my car. The only negatives are a "chains rattling" noise at idle (if you listen for it) & increased noise if you lug the engine. Neither is significant for me.
BTW, it's also a great time to upgrade to a G50/21 (Euro close ratio) gearbox since the added labor is minimal. The price difference between what I paid for a G50/21 (w/LSD) & what I got for my oem US G50/20 was about $1,300. A small price for what I've found to be a very significant performance gain.
RE;Clutch material on air cleaner,
By closely examing the residue, and comparing it with the amount of miles since air cleaner change, I was told you can gain some insight as to the clutch condition,mine did not slip but when removed but had hardly any material left on the disk, might shed light on how the P.O. drove the car,mechanic has over twenty years experience vasek race team, andial and others......
TomF - Yes it is very easy (well if you have some strong friends or a good jack) to just pull the transaxle and leave the engine in the car. It does saves some time, and some rather messy uncouplings of the oil, power steering, and fuel lines. No real tricks. Just loosen the exhaust tips and the motor mounts and then loosen the transaxle mount bolts and start letting the assembly come down. After it comes down a little you can get to the upper starter bolt and the slave cylinder (it is a little easier at this time). Make sure that the engine is supported after you pull off the transaxle....
Thanks Bob, that is what I will do when I need to replace my clutch. After 85K, it still seems to be holidng on strong. I will be coming to you for the LWFW and RS clutch parts!
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