Clutch replacement cost?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Clutch replacement cost?
I noticed today that my clutch is going to need to be replaced soon, what should I expect to spend to have it replaced at the dealer? Any recomendations on upgrades that aren't too expensive to do at this time?
#2
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
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I just had Devek install their lightweight flywheel/clutch assembly. Parts were $1,500 for the turbo, $1,250 for NA cars, and labor was $1,265. 4 wheel alignment with kinematic toe set was $ 295. Most dealers/shops are about the asame for the stock unit.
#4
Originally Posted by 99D3C2
Must a 4 wheel alignment be completed after a new clutch is installed or was it merely time anyway?
#7
On my car which is a 97 c2s, mechanic showed me clutch lining residue on the aircleaner element as the clutch has a tube connected to air cleaner, and was sucking the residue in to air cleaner
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Clutch
My car is a 96 cab c2 with 41k for miles. It drives fine for normal driving, but the two times I tried launching by revving and letting out the clutch from a stop, it slipped so bad that the car wasn't even moving. Afterwards there was a real strong burning smell. I don't normally drive my car hard, but the two times I tried racing someone from a stop, Im stuck nearly standing still because the clutch is slipping. I have had the car for about a year and a half.
I think the lightweight flywheel seems to be something that alot of people recommend. Any down side to this?
I think the lightweight flywheel seems to be something that alot of people recommend. Any down side to this?
#9
Race Car
My recent clutch replacement at the dealer cost $2k. I did not upgrade to the LWF. My DMF was in good shape and, for my driving, the mechanic recommended that I stay Dual Mass.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#10
Originally Posted by supergrass
My car is a 96 cab c2 with 41k for miles. It drives fine for normal driving, but the two times I tried launching by revving and letting out the clutch from a stop, it slipped so bad that the car wasn't even moving. Afterwards there was a real strong burning smell. I don't normally drive my car hard, but the two times I tried racing someone from a stop, Im stuck nearly standing still because the clutch is slipping. I have had the car for about a year and a half.
I think the lightweight flywheel seems to be something that alot of people recommend. Any down side to this?
I think the lightweight flywheel seems to be something that alot of people recommend. Any down side to this?
#12
Addict
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Originally Posted by supergrass
My car is a 96 cab c2 with 41k for miles. It drives fine for normal driving, but the two times I tried launching by revving and letting out the clutch from a stop, it slipped so bad that the car wasn't even moving. Afterwards there was a real strong burning smell. I don't normally drive my car hard, but the two times I tried racing someone from a stop, Im stuck nearly standing still because the clutch is slipping. I have had the car for about a year and a half.
I think the lightweight flywheel seems to be something that alot of people recommend. Any down side to this?
I think the lightweight flywheel seems to be something that alot of people recommend. Any down side to this?
Don't worry yet.
Mine does this too. A high RPM launch with a RWD Porker will do that coz there is so much traction that something has to slip. Otherwise, things would break.
The proper method for checking is in either 3rd or 4th gear at 4500 rpm. Floor the accelerator. If there is clutch slippage then you need a new clutch. If not, save your money.
BTW, because the clutch housing has a hose connected to the air intake, it is normal to find clutch dust on your air filter. This is also a good reason to keep the OEM air filter... unless you vent the clutch elsewhere.
Cheers from sunny Europe (where I am at any rate)
Good luck.
#13
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by supergrass
My car is a 96 cab c2 with 41k for miles. It drives fine for normal driving, but the two times I tried launching by revving and letting out the clutch from a stop, it slipped so bad that the car wasn't even moving. Afterwards there was a real strong burning smell. I don't normally drive my car hard, but the two times I tried racing someone from a stop, Im stuck nearly standing still because the clutch is slipping. I have had the car for about a year and a half.
I think the lightweight flywheel seems to be something that alot of people recommend. Any down side to this?
I think the lightweight flywheel seems to be something that alot of people recommend. Any down side to this?
Honestly, after adding the LWF and RS clutch I am amazed by the fact that there is even a debate about this modification. For OBDII cars this is a tremedous upgrade (and can also be done for OBDI with chip tuning).
Take out a failure prone, heavy flywheel and add a higher quality, lighter, more reliable flywheel and clutch that is cheaper than OEM. What's not to like about that?
Oh yeah, wait till you drive it. Its like having a different car. BTW, here comes the slippery slope.... while everything is out of the car, its a great time to add the RS motor and tranny mounts.
#14
RL Community Team
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ViperBob, I am assuming that it is easier to remove the transaxle on a C2 to do a clutch/FW, etc... as opposed to dropping the engine/tranny together. Everyone here on the board seems to drop the whole deal. Any tips on just removing the transaxle on a C2? Thanks
#15
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Originally Posted by flyenby
On my car which is a 97 c2s, mechanic showed me clutch lining residue on the aircleaner element as the clutch has a tube connected to air cleaner, and was sucking the residue in to air cleaner
Last edited by rainmn; 01-19-2005 at 03:53 PM.