hn

After more than a year of reading every single post about suspensions and the last 3 days of extensive search, I've come to choose PSS9 simply due to adjustatble in height (and firmness)and cost factor (now I can get back to my normal life). This is far more advance than I will ever need for stickly street use but who knows about the future. Thanks for all the informative posts and specially from the respond emails from whom I have been bugging with my emails in the past 3 days.

One more favor on the part numbers, though. I think I'll go with M030 bars but if the cost of the RS bars is not too much in difference I migh as well get them. So if anyone has part numbers for the bars and the drop links handy please post. I just want to make sure I'll get the right part from the dealer.

Thx

ca993twin

From what I've heard, you should probably be ordering this stuff from Gert at Carnewal.com. Everybody here swears by his knowledge and service, and he can steer you to exactly the parts you will need. His PSS9 stuff was recently on sale and priced very low. So I've heard.

BTW, I would recommend and adjustable rear sway bar, at a minimum. Makes it really easy to dial some push in or out.

hn

Thx Steve. I was that close to order the lowering package from Gert then I realized for corner balancing, the car will sit too low. (By the way, Gert will put this package on sale in May). I also looked at the HR coil-over but for roughly the same price, I ordered the pss9 here for the warranty. I started from HD with ROW spring, HD with HR, HR coilover and ended up with PSS9

Aren't RS bars adjustable? Or that's what you meant?

Mike J

Maybe what you can do is go for the RS bar for the rear and use a M030 bar in the front. Its the front RS that is really expensive...the back one is about 1/3 of the cost of the pair (for some reason). Using just a rear RS bar is the same setup that RUF uses on their setup...its cheaper and still you get to adjust the sways.

FlyYellow

Hmmm... just the rear RS bar and not the front(and yes the RS bars are adjustable - the m030 bars are not). I always think of suspension as matched items. This just seems like taking a shower and not changing your underwear.

I can see the logic of being able to adjust/dial the push/understeer out. However, what I'm thinking is that the rear will be far more flat in hard cornering vs. the front. and that may cause some interesting characteristics. i don't have any REAL data, but my intuition is telling me no way. IMO ;-)

Cheers,

Boris

Tom W

RS bars are adjustable. 5 positions in front (to use for fine-tuning) and 3 positions in the rear (for coarse adjustment). I put the rear to the 1st (firm) position for an autocross a few weeks ago and it eliminated almost all understeer.

max911

Tom, you used the 1st (firm) hole on the rear, which did hole did you use on the front??? thanks, max

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Boris Teksler:
<strong>Hmmm... just the rear RS bar and not the front(and yes the RS bars are adjustable - the m030 bars are not). I always think of suspension as matched items. This just seems like taking a shower and not changing your underwear.
Boris</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Eloquently spoken, Mr Teksler,.....I could not have said it better myself,......

Suspension systems ARE matched items and really should used together to get the results that are desired. I know some folks have used non-adjustable bars and seem pleased with the results. IMHO,.......when going to the trouble to install a fully adjustable coilover package for the implied and obvious reasons, the whole system performs much much better with the RS adjustable bars on both ends. I strongly encourage my customers to do something like this right, the first time and not have to do it again.

Although there some "band-aid" solutions, there is no question that the RS bars are the only effective way to set the understeer/oversteer balance to your skills and preferences.

Martin S.

Once again, I must agree with Steve. Take the cost of the RS bars less the cost of the 21mm RoW Turbo rear bar $200?, for about $800 more, $22 a month over the next three years, you have the best possible set up for dialing in/out oversteer/understeer. You have already dumped at least $2,000 for parts alone in the PSS9 set up, don't compromise the upgrade!

I am sticking with my M030 RoW set up until I can fund the coil over upgrade, to PSS9s, or possibly a H&R set up, we'll see. After dropping $2,300 on the car last month, to fix the door strap ($600), repair and paint the tail ($500) and the new windshield ($1,000), fix a few mini-dings ($200), things were a little tese on the home front. It is blowing over now...but if I were to spend $3,000 on suspension now...it would not be pretty around here, especially since I gave my car a valentine and not the wife, bad move! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Jim

I just had the PSS9s put on my C4S, (thanks Gert). I had to go out and buy a RS rear sway bar to get the correct ride height. (~$700 retail at the last minute, grrr) So I'll be the guinea pig, now I have the M030 turbo front stabilizer with RS rear connected in the middle hole. If I go spinning off the track...well heck, that's pretty much situation normal...Anyway, I'm sure,(and the highly professional suspension shop I took it to also agrees), this set up will be fine, I can't imagine requiring much fine-tuning of the front sway in a mostly street car.

My first impressions of this suspension are very favorable. Unbelievably precise and stable. Can't wait to get it out on a track.

Mike J

I guess the question is : How many with full RS sways use the front bar for tuning, or just leave it and adjust the back?

I can see the point of having the entire RS set, but you figure tuners like RUF would know what they are doing as well. If I had lots of $$ then I would go for the whole thing, but being economically challenged I will also be a test case like Jim...will report back the results. In the worse case if I don't like it I can always upgrade the front bars.

Anyone know why the front bars are so much more expensive than the rears?

Tom W

max911: I have the rear bar at firm (1st hole closest to the bend, farthest from the end) and the front in the middle setting. Note that Porsche recommends the middle setting front and rear for street use. I will adjust the front as needed once I've got more experience with the rear in it's current setting and decide if/how I want to chnage the handling.

Note that my car has PSS-9's with RS ride height and alignmnet specs and when I autocross I set the shocks to 3 or 4 in the front and 1 in the rear. I have MPSC tires in the 205/255 sizes on 17" rims.

max911

thanks Tom. i have mine both set in the middle now. car is MUCH more neutral than with the original swaybars. it may still understeer slightly...but i prefer that for a liitle safety. If i try an autocross, i'll try moving the rear to the first hole. ( bilstein HDs/ eibach; height, guessing somewhere between ROW and RS, S-02s) thanks again, max