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993 Forum 1995-1998

Engine removal phase 5

Old Dec 16, 2004 | 04:15 PM
  #16  
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Thanks for taking the time to document this! You sure will save someone a lot of time and effort in the future.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 04:22 PM
  #17  
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JP,
I saw one other 993 jacked way up to get the engine and gearbox out and it just kind of looked rather percariously perched. The way you did yours it just looks more stable although I suppose it's fine to have it jacked up higher.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 05:23 PM
  #18  
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Congrats on getting the engine out. When you go to put the throttle cable or any rubber seal back into place, wet the rubber with rubbing alcohol. I usually dip my finger in the bottle cap and then wet the edges of the rubber with my finger. The rubbing alcohol lubricates rubber/plastic and the pieces (throttle cable seal) slide into place almost instantly and you spend zero time fighting and pinching, etc. Best of all 20 seconds later the alcohol evaporates.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 09:10 PM
  #19  
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JP,
You da man! Thank you so much for taking the time to pic and post. It is truly a testament to the power of patience, the right tools, and of course all the Rennlisters out there.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 09:20 PM
  #20  
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Great job! Great documentary as well. Now how greasy is your digi camera?
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 05:12 AM
  #21  
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Excellent write-up, again! So you removed the slave cylinder altogether? Otherwise I would exchange it, but it's probably still hanging under the car then (and a b*tch to get back in place).
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 05:38 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Firren
Excellent write-up, again! So you removed the slave cylinder altogether? Otherwise I would exchange it, but it's probably still hanging under the car then (and a b*tch to get back in place).
Yes the slave cylinder is still hanging under the car. But I think I'll change it for a new one.
But in fact it was not so difficult to remove. I took care to keep the engine trany assembly enough to the front, and doing so, I bring the engine /trany assembly almost to the ground keeping the slave cylinder connected. And then you have an easy access to it. I dream of putting it back the same way!
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 08:02 AM
  #23  
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Err! Great story and massive praise but why are you taking the engine out?

PJC
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 08:27 AM
  #24  
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https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/174810-before-i-start.html
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Old Dec 17, 2004 | 09:29 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Toga
Yes the slave cylinder is still hanging under the car. But I think I'll change it for a new one.
But in fact it was not so difficult to remove. I took care to keep the engine trany assembly enough to the front, and doing so, I bring the engine /trany assembly almost to the ground keeping the slave cylinder connected. And then you have an easy access to it. I dream of putting it back the same way!
That sounds like a very nice dream that cylinder sure is situated quite bad
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 03:32 PM
  #26  
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Great Job!!!! I'm gonna give it a try. I need to replace my clutch
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 03:58 AM
  #27  
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Go ahead Lambo504! It's a rewarding experience.
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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JP wrote up the whole experience on pcarworkshop.

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...ing_the_engine

The only think I do different is I do not remove the bumper, its not required if you can lift the car up high enough. I have done it three ways : 1 ) I have a monster floor jack that will do it 2 )I used a chain block off one of the I-beams in my shop ceiling to lift the rear of the car up 3) Use my lift.

It saves a lot of work, but it depends on what tools you have.

Best of luck, go slow (since your labor is free), and have fun!

Cheers,

Mike
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Old Oct 19, 2018 | 08:55 PM
  #29  
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I did not find the size to be 36mm but 32 mm of the crankcase to tank return nut (scavange line) and I still can't get it to move. Have I an abnormality?
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Old Oct 21, 2018 | 08:40 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Endoman
I did not find the size to be 36mm but 32 mm of the crankcase to tank return nut (scavange line) and I still can't get it to move. Have I an abnormality?
Order yourself one of these open ended 32mm ring spanners which fit over the oil line. This should give you enough room and leverage to free the nut and reduce the risk of damaging the short oil return tube which is very close.



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