I understand that repairing leaky valve covers is a fairly simple job.

2 questions: 1. is it necessary to replace the covers? My understanding is that the factory ones are a plastic composition and tend to warp. Does a leak necessarily mean that the cover is bad or just that the gasket may have shrunk?

2. Anything special I need to know....special tricks of the trade or anything? Any one part or piece thats better to use than another?

Thanks all

 

Have you read the DIY on Robin's site?

http://p-car.com/diy/valvecover/

 

Thanks kelly just read it. That simple? No need to replace the cover just the gasket? Simple....or did I just jump to a conclusion to quickly

 

Hi Chris

On the 964 the covers are still metal and are veeeery expensive. The gaskets are peanuts of course so in our case it is definitely worth trying the gasket first! If your valve covers are also expensive then that is the way to go. Of course of they are USD50 each then I would just replace them as well...

Either way, it is not a big job. If you can time it with a service then the shop should do it for free or nearly free....

 

Chris-
I've not had the pleasure of changing the gaskets as mine are fine for now. From what I've read on the board, though, the plastic covers don't seem to be a much of a problem.

For you second question.. I hate to say it, but do a search. I've read of people that have had some real problems with replacing the gaskets while others have none.

this one stands out from the past...

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...&highlight=zen

Hopefully, others will chime in with some tips to make the job go easier.

Good luck!

 

Chris,
Valve cover gasket replacement is fairly easy, just a little time consuming. I would not worry about valve cover replacement unless you see a physical problem with them upon removal. I had the same concern until I purchased my gaskets. They are relatively thick and for lack of better terms, "compress" upon installation. I would recommend a very light coat of oil on them prior to installing, the same as you would put on an oil filter gasket before installing the filter.

Good luck,
Jeff

 

I replaced mine on both sides. One side is leaking again - i think it's time for re-torquing. Not a pleasant job.

 

Not sure if it matters in the end, but I did try to get a group buy for some lower valve covers from Eagle since they make an aluminum replacement. Not much interest (actually zero). I've replaced my gaskets now and things seem to be better but I'd still feel better with something other than that composite stuff. Has anyone actually switched over with the covers themselves and does it improve things?

 

Mike,

the re-torque cant be as bad as the repalcement.....? can it? Just bought my car in Boston, boy the climate up there really does a number on anything not galvanized.....can we say rust. Took off the undertray last night....nasty. There was more oil and dirt build up than should be possible. Hope it wasn't oil dry I see a gasket change in my near future.

 

The re-torqueing isn't as hard, especially if it is in one of the easy to get to spots (figure the odds). With around 11 bolts per cover, you obviously want to get it clean and see if you can see where the oil is weeping from. Then you can torque that area down a little more.

 

Re-torquing should not be hard, although I'm sure that my leaking is from the rear bolts, therefore the air hose needs to be taken off (I hate putting it back on). The problem is that we had two days fo snow, I'm going to Europe for two and a half weeks, when i come back it's going to be even colder. We'll see.

As far as rust... Boston is heaven. I've spent 12 years in Rochester, NY. Talk about rust... My first car, '80 Corolla had holes on the bottoms of the doors where you could easily put your fists and not get scratched. My first MR2 had its fenders rust completely at the bottoms and I drove it with fenders flapping like pterodactyl wings (and later without front fenders at all every day for two months).

 

Where do you find a torque wrench that goes down to 11 pounds??

 

I just had this done to my 993TT. My lower valve covers were warped and leaking (the mechanic said that the engine tray should be off--it is now). Anyway, the total job with parts labor was around $1200 i think. Luckily the after market warranty picked up $1000. The labor was most of the cost.

 

I think Griots Garage has a torque wrench like this..

 

I used a snap-on 1/4" 20-200 in-lb torque wrench. Got it used for $100, new is around $205.