DIY oil change
05-20-2003, 03:05 PM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 2,956
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brad, the scary part of that small oil filter saga is that you don't know for sure if it was just overtightened last time... or it's the original oil filter that's never been changed!!
05-20-2003, 03:17 PM
#17
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
The first time I removed the small filter I had the same problem it was way over tighten. And I did a similiar punch drift method. And then I stuck a super size channel lock plier into the bottom of the filter to turn it loose.
05-21-2003, 04:06 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Didn't have much time to work on my car tonight, but did attempt to remove the oil return line and tried to find the engine drain plug. Where the heck is the engine drain plug?? I've already drained the other plug (near the tall filter), but can't find the other plug. Is it still on this side of the car (where large oil filter is)?
I removed the 13mm nut for the oil return line, and aggressively pushed out the oil return line, but couldn't get it to pull out. Had to be careful, because I started bending the area I was prying...I pryed (sp?) as much as I could, but the darn line wouldn't pop out. I pulled on the line, but to no avail...made me nervous so I stopped..
Tomorrow I have more time and hope to complete the DIY oil change (still need to find a oil removal tool...will check Pep Boys tomorrow).
I removed the 13mm nut for the oil return line, and aggressively pushed out the oil return line, but couldn't get it to pull out. Had to be careful, because I started bending the area I was prying...I pryed (sp?) as much as I could, but the darn line wouldn't pop out. I pulled on the line, but to no avail...made me nervous so I stopped..
Tomorrow I have more time and hope to complete the DIY oil change (still need to find a oil removal tool...will check Pep Boys tomorrow).
05-21-2003, 09:50 AM
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Oleg, the engine drain plug is on the other side of the car. You will have to remove the heater duct to get to it and prevent oil spilling all over the place. Try to pry the oil return line with a small screw driver - it'll pop right out.
Did my first oil change about a month ago and it took me about one week - the "best" oil change the car ever got because its a perfect time to clean all the areas you otherwise never get to. Good luck!
Did my first oil change about a month ago and it took me about one week - the "best" oil change the car ever got because its a perfect time to clean all the areas you otherwise never get to. Good luck!
05-21-2003, 10:28 AM
#20
Oleg,
You aren't prying the oil tube itself are you? At the end of the oil tube where it goes into the engine (where you removed the bolt) there is that base of metal that matches up to the engine and where the bolt attaches. Work a small screw driver (flat tip of course) between this base and the engine, then apply a some pressure. It should pop right off.
You aren't prying the oil tube itself are you? At the end of the oil tube where it goes into the engine (where you removed the bolt) there is that base of metal that matches up to the engine and where the bolt attaches. Work a small screw driver (flat tip of course) between this base and the engine, then apply a some pressure. It should pop right off.
05-21-2003, 12:17 PM
#21
I've found that you have to hold the oil return line and reposition it so it comes out straight. If it's at an angle, then it'll be harder to pull out.
It shoudn't require lots of prying to get it out.
It shoudn't require lots of prying to get it out.
05-21-2003, 02:23 PM
#22
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by oleg steciw:
<strong>I removed the 13mm nut for the oil return line, and aggressively pushed out the oil return line, but couldn't get it to pull out.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Cars are like woman, you just can't force yourself with the parts if they don't come apart. (I learn that when I tried to kiss a girl in 2nd grade without her permission, principal had to call my parents to the school) A little change of angle on all sides while pulling on the tube should free it up.
<strong>I removed the 13mm nut for the oil return line, and aggressively pushed out the oil return line, but couldn't get it to pull out.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Cars are like woman, you just can't force yourself with the parts if they don't come apart. (I learn that when I tried to kiss a girl in 2nd grade without her permission, principal had to call my parents to the school) A little change of angle on all sides while pulling on the tube should free it up.
05-21-2003, 03:10 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys! Sheesh, feel like a chump asking all these questions, but I'm moving forward to do my first complete oil change!! Thank you All for your support, and thank you once again Mr. Robin Sun for creating <a href="http://www.p-car.com!!" target="_blank">www.p-car.com!!</a>
05-22-2003, 04:18 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Mission successfully accomplished! Everything went pretty smoothly today, thanks to Jeff, Brian, Fred and Robins help. Thanks guys! First DIY oil change finally done!
Definitely good idea to move the oil return line. I had to replace one o-ring, due to it being totally worn-out. Both filters, fortunately, came off easily. I bought the oil filter tool at The Pep Boys (brought my filter in and found the right fit tool).
Drain oil from the engine crank case also went well, after I found it (it's on opposite side of the other filters).
Fired up the engine and no leaks! What a feeling!
Next DIY is a rotor and brake job!
Thank you again <a href="http://www.p-car.com" target="_blank">www.p-car.com</a> !!
First DIY oil change finally done!Definitely good idea to move the oil return line. I had to replace one o-ring, due to it being totally worn-out. Both filters, fortunately, came off easily. I bought the oil filter tool at The Pep Boys (brought my filter in and found the right fit tool).
Drain oil from the engine crank case also went well, after I found it (it's on opposite side of the other filters).
Fired up the engine and no leaks! What a feeling!
Next DIY is a rotor and brake job!
Thank you again <a href="http://www.p-car.com" target="_blank">www.p-car.com</a> !!
05-22-2003, 10:37 AM
#25
So the question has to be asked....Oleg how much kitty litter did you use?
Just so you know, on my first oil change I thought..."I don't need no stinking kitty litter"... well I pull out the drain plug from the oil tank the the oil arched out, I had anticipated this and had placed the pan appropriately and didn't miss any, what I didn't think of was that the jack stand would be in the way of my oil pan and prevent it from moving further under the tank for when the oil was trickling out...Off to Target for kitty litter....then I tiped the small oil filter over while getting it out....good thing I bought a bag. I also learned that the latex gloves and lots of shop rags are a good investment during this project.
Just so you know, on my first oil change I thought..."I don't need no stinking kitty litter"... well I pull out the drain plug from the oil tank the the oil arched out, I had anticipated this and had placed the pan appropriately and didn't miss any, what I didn't think of was that the jack stand would be in the way of my oil pan and prevent it from moving further under the tank for when the oil was trickling out...Off to Target for kitty litter....then I tiped the small oil filter over while getting it out....good thing I bought a bag. I also learned that the latex gloves and lots of shop rags are a good investment during this project.
05-22-2003, 11:40 AM
#27
Drifting
I found the "arching" oil flow upon pulling the plug to be a real potential disaster. Especially on the right side drain plug where the pan can't be positioned properly due to the location of the jack so close to the drain hole.
What I did was fashion a "deflector plate" of sorts out of stainless steel. It's nothing more than a rectangular sheet of metal about 8" wide and about 12" tall with a "V" bent in the top to get the flow centered. It worked perfectly! Not a drop hit my floor! It's pictured in my link below.
What I did was fashion a "deflector plate" of sorts out of stainless steel. It's nothing more than a rectangular sheet of metal about 8" wide and about 12" tall with a "V" bent in the top to get the flow centered. It worked perfectly! Not a drop hit my floor! It's pictured in my link below.
05-22-2003, 02:23 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I actually didn't make as big of a mess as I expected. I was prepared to deal with a big mess, but maybe I just got lucky. For the engine oil drain plug, I took a plastic shopping bag and wrapped it around the r-shaped heat exhaust vent - oil bounced off it and straight into my oversized oil pan - bulls eye!
I don't know about you guys, but I'm always nervous under the damn car. Yeah, yeah, I've got good jack stands (3 ton Sears stands), and I place my rear 17" in front and in the rear, for insurance (in case the stands fail, car will land on wheels) but I still feel like a fish out of water under the car. Maybe this will change after a few more DIY's..
Overall, very satisfied about completing this. Also, as Mr. Sun perfectly explained, by car took exactly 10.5 quarts of Mobil One 15-50, to get the oil reservoir needle to the 10:30 position (oil at operating temp, level, etc...). Perrrfect!
Hey Cmoss, if I could do it.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
I don't know about you guys, but I'm always nervous under the damn car. Yeah, yeah, I've got good jack stands (3 ton Sears stands), and I place my rear 17" in front and in the rear, for insurance (in case the stands fail, car will land on wheels) but I still feel like a fish out of water under the car. Maybe this will change after a few more DIY's..
Overall, very satisfied about completing this. Also, as Mr. Sun perfectly explained, by car took exactly 10.5 quarts of Mobil One 15-50, to get the oil reservoir needle to the 10:30 position (oil at operating temp, level, etc...). Perrrfect!
Hey Cmoss, if I could do it.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
05-22-2003, 02:36 PM
#29
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by oleg steciw:
<strong>I don't know about you guys, but I'm always nervous under the damn car. Yeah, yeah, I've got good jack stands (3 ton Sears stands), and I place my rear 17" in front and in the rear, for insurance (in case the stands fail, car will land on wheels) but I still feel like a fish out of water under the car. Maybe this will change after a few more DIY's..
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I know what you mean. That's why I've been looking to get an auto lift. I've seen them for around $1500 right now.
That's a bit too expensive for me right now, so in the meantime, I got the AC flat top jack stands. Much better quality than the sears ones ( which I have too. ). The big thing is that the sears jack stands have a U shaped top and I can't find a good way to mate that to the bottom of the car. The flat tops eliminate the problem.
I think I'm just as paranoid as you, since I have my car on the flat top stands, have 3 wheels under the car, and have positioned my older sears stands under the car at various points as well.
I figure if the car still falls down and kills me, my time has come anyways.
<strong>I don't know about you guys, but I'm always nervous under the damn car. Yeah, yeah, I've got good jack stands (3 ton Sears stands), and I place my rear 17" in front and in the rear, for insurance (in case the stands fail, car will land on wheels) but I still feel like a fish out of water under the car. Maybe this will change after a few more DIY's..
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I know what you mean. That's why I've been looking to get an auto lift. I've seen them for around $1500 right now.
That's a bit too expensive for me right now, so in the meantime, I got the AC flat top jack stands. Much better quality than the sears ones ( which I have too. ). The big thing is that the sears jack stands have a U shaped top and I can't find a good way to mate that to the bottom of the car. The flat tops eliminate the problem.
I think I'm just as paranoid as you, since I have my car on the flat top stands, have 3 wheels under the car, and have positioned my older sears stands under the car at various points as well.
I figure if the car still falls down and kills me, my time has come anyways.
05-22-2003, 03:03 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Jeff - glad to know I'm not the only one!
I remember you doing a group buy of the AC jack stands. <a href="http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html" target="_blank">www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html</a>
Which model did you get and what was the $ you got?
I like Model 1500N, but looks like they don't come with rubber flat top.. Very nice jacks, bty..I think I would feel better about being under these babies...
Model 1500N - 3300 lb capacity, 13-19" range, 7.5 lbs each ................... $40.00ea
Model 3000N - 6600 lb capacity, 13-21" range, 11 lbs each .................... $50.00ea
Model 3000N-Flat - 3000N with flat top post & rubber pad....................... $95.00ea
Model 3000N-Set - 3000N with both cradle & flat top post/rubber pad........ $115.00ea (see picture below)
I remember you doing a group buy of the AC jack stands. <a href="http://www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html" target="_blank">www.ultimategarage.com/acjacks.html</a>
Which model did you get and what was the $ you got?
I like Model 1500N, but looks like they don't come with rubber flat top.. Very nice jacks, bty..I think I would feel better about being under these babies...
Model 1500N - 3300 lb capacity, 13-19" range, 7.5 lbs each ................... $40.00ea
Model 3000N - 6600 lb capacity, 13-21" range, 11 lbs each .................... $50.00ea
Model 3000N-Flat - 3000N with flat top post & rubber pad....................... $95.00ea
Model 3000N-Set - 3000N with both cradle & flat top post/rubber pad........ $115.00ea (see picture below)