viperbob

Anir,

You are smart getting all your tools upfront. I originally purchased the Hazet 21mm socket and the 7mm allen tool. As I was replacing the upper shock mounts with monoballs, I never even needed the 21mm. I did not know that I then needed the 19mm and 21mm to reinstall. So a couple of spare Craftsman 1/2' deepwell sockets and a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel later and I had a a homemade open socket.

Good luck with the install. You will love the results ....

Ponchobroke

I have just posted additional pics for the coil/collar dimensions equating to a ~25 inch ride height at all 4 corners. You can link to the gallery in my signature.

Anir

Bob,

I can't wait to see how it drives after the PSS-9's. I'll get to check it out at Mid Ohio on April 19th.

John,

Thanks for the helpful pics. I can see what you're talking about with the washers, and I'm sure it works just fine (or better). I'll check it out when installing the units, and let you know what I did.

Don Magee

John, your car looks superb! But, why is there an amber reflector on the front quarter panel? Is your car a ROW version? Also, any problems with that ride height with steep drives or road bumps?

Ponchobroke

Don, no it is not ROW but the PO liked the look and added them...it does make it a bit different. He also put a sliding arm rest in it (new pic) which make distance very comfortable. I do 500 miles/week.

GTR 993

John your ride height of ~25 inches is from ground to fender? Please advise, I am getting mine installed this week also and was wondering what to set the height at. Thanks

Flying Finn

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by GJ:
<strong>FYI,

My PSS-9's came with a spanner wrench</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by GJ:
<strong>The PSS-9's don't come assembled.

Maybe you should suport your local dealer</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I just had an cigarette.

Lots of useful information Anir, don't you think?

Ponchobroke

Yes, from ground to fender lip.

GTR 993

Thanks I appreciate the info.

Anir

I'm about 30% of the way through the installation (stuck right now awaiting the Hazet tools, which should arrive tomorrow). I have found that a spring compressor is necessary if you are not using monoballs, because you have to disassemble the factory struts to obtain the factory top hats for reuse. Our local Autozone offers a loaner spring compressor for a $40 deposit, which is refunded when you return the tool - pretty cool service.

I ended up using the Dremel to modify the brackets on the front factory and PSS-9 units, so that I could slip the assembled brake line in. I tried for quite some time to disassemble the brake line without success.

viperbob

Anir,

With spring compressors the operative word is CAUTION. I have seen the results of a spring released (or explode) under tension. Make sure that the unit you rent has two (2) claws on each end of the rod spaced a couple of inches apart. Many compressors have this double claw setup on just on side, or worse not on either side. The double claw greatly decreases the chance of slippage.

See, it would be safer just to get the monoball setup.....

Good luck

Anir

Hi Kim,

My springs were still under a bit of tension even after moving the rings down, so I am using a spring compressor to protect my delicate facial features from unintended rearrangement. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

I agree - the brake lines are the only crappy part of this otherwise straightforward project.

Bob,

The spring compressor does have the two claws on both sides, and yes, I probably should have used monoballs.

Ponchobroke

Anir,

Just a note. When I removed my springs (front and reara)there was very little "pre-load" to the point that finally taking off the top nut was un-eventful. These were stock US struts on a 95-C2. Also, when putting the brake lines back on the fronts a slight twist (flex) with an open end wrench lined up the flat easy enough to put the clip back on.

bet

Anir,

Did you and Greg get this done yet? Where are you getting the corner balance done (Greg's guy in Cincy?).

I think I read somewhere that you were using the modified hats by Steve W. Correct? If so could you take a couple of pictures of your final rear strut when installed with a tape measure for reference? I am getting ready to take apart my PSS-9's and add the hats and am curious where a good starting point for the ride height is, because it is my understanding the hats add height over the manufacturer ones.

Jim Morton

Brian:

I might be able to shed some light here as well.

When I first setup the prototype hats, I re-installed the spring to the same compressed height as I measured on my original OEM mount setup. Ride height went up about 3/8+ of an inch. This may vary a little car to car based on your corner weight setting, etc. However, from my notes, after resetting the ride height, I lowered the rear collars about 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch in order to restore my ride height to what it was before the hats. The difference l to r is likely due to the re-corner-balancing I did as well.

As a note, the hats should not add any physical length to the coil over stack up. The ride height difference should be due to the lack of weight being placed on the rubber OEM shock mount. With the load being taken off the OEM mount, the ride height should be a little higher. This is consistent to what I observed with the prototype installation.

Remember to have your gas tank filled the same (Porsche manuals call for full) for whenever you take your ride height measurements as the front will vary quite a bit, ~1/4+" with gas tank level. Also, you need to drive around a bit to "settle" the car prior to measuring the heights.

Hope this helps.