solsrch

Well, I started the replacement of my lower valve cover gaskets yesterday and thought it was about time to replace the oil too (my first time), so went to start that. The valve cover bolts were gorilla'ed on so tight, I had to remove the heat exchanger from the right side just to get that valve cover off. Managed the left without that level of disassembly, but barely.
Meanwhile, back to the oil change. The oil drain plug is really cranked in too. Of course, at this point, I've not only stripped the head but tried a nut/bolt extractor too. That isn't getting me anywhere (although it did tear off a good bit more metal). So now what? Any bright ideas because I'm running out of them other than to make sure I don't torque things down like the shop that did my 30K service for me. HELP! I've attached a photo in case that helps in any way.

viperbob

I have used Facom bolt/stud extractors with good results. Also, Sears has some stripped bolt extractors that work exceedingly well and are a pretty good price..... http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/searc...cemgdffmdfko.0

Good luck with the repair.... Using these type of tools, you should be able to remove the plug..

Mark in Baltimore

Jeez, Joe, I hate days like that! Good luck.

graham_mitchell

When you're done, and in case you don't already have this info (from the manual):

Tightening torque of drain plugs is
50 Nm (37 ftlb.):
at the thermostat housing
50 + 5 Nm (37 + 3.7)
at the crankcase

solsrch

ViperBob - Thanks, unfortunately, those are exactly the ones I'm using (the Craftsmen extractors) and I'm not seeing any progress.
Mark, yeah, me too. I even left out the part about the loosening the fan nut last night and my trip to the hospital for some stitches. Some days ...
Graham, excellent. Perhaps I should provide a copy to Pitstop too.

kkim

Wow! That looks pretty bad.

Have you tried using vise grips?

Novice

Been there, not the P-Car but the Jeep.
At that shape, these are the steps I would take
1) PB Blaster or similar penetration oil (from the pic, doen't looks like you used any)
2) First grind it down to two flat and parallel and use a open end wrench on it.
3) use a welder to weld grade 8 nut or a wrench on to it (The high heat will also help loosen it)
4) use the kind of bolt extractor that ressemble a drill bit. (follow the instructions to drill a pilot hole.) An hammer drill may help.

Heat/Torsch, impact/shocks , if all else fail, drill it out.

good luck.

Edward

Oh man, I hate it when that happens...and it has!

Don't know if you've tried the old-school method of vise grips, but they've gotten me out of many a stripped head. It looks like you still have enough bolt material there but if necesary, file a side or two more square to let the jaws get a good grip. Heating around the area is a good idea, too. If that doesn't work, go for the Sears extractors...anything before the drill. Here's to hoping you don't have to go that route!

Good luck.

Edward

Ron

Joe,

I took a couple of pictures of a very heavy duty extractor I've had for many years. I'm not sure of the correct name for the extractor. When you have enough room for this thing, which I think you might, it should; emphasis on should, work.


Edited:

I remember what it's called. It's a stud extractor. You can probably tell it works by the cam being forced against the stubborn stud. It doesn't really dig into the metal of the stubborn stud like the newer type I've seen like the Sears ones which I have too. This one also is 1/2 drive and if there is enough head for the cam to press against it should work.

Dudley

You may be to far gone for a conventional extractor. I have had success with Gerry's method of grinding two parallel sides and fitting an open end wrench. Good luck.

Dave

chris walrod

May try applying some heat with one of those small butane torches from HomeBoy Depot.. Also a good sized punch at the outer part of the plug, near where the crush washer bearing surface is. May help...Good Luck!

solsrch

I've been down the vice grips road, to no avail. I haven't tried grinding new surfaces - that sound promising. I also haven't tried, although I was considering the kind of extractor that you put inside. Ron, I haven't seen that style extractor; any idea where you got it? I considered doing a little heating before trying to extract it but haven't convinced myself about that part.

amfp

In addition to good info above make sure the engine is warm when you try th e processes, asl for PKBlaster make it soak for two hours, and respray and let soak again for about 30 minutes. Good luck.

Ron

Joe,
I've had that tool over 20 years I don't remember where I got it, I think an auto supply store, thought not a place like autozone or pep boys. It's of very high quality made in the USA by Blackhawk tools. I don't know if they are still in business.

How many mm tall is the nub of what was the bolt head?
What is the appoximate diameter in mm of what was bolt?

Edited:

If you do decide to drill it out you should consider completely grinding off the head so it’s flush with the housing that the bolt goes into. The theory is by grinding the head off you have released all the pressure that was holding the bolt. After it’s ground down, the threaded part of the bolt may come right out easily. I would think that the treads would not be corroded since it’s an oil plug. I have had to do this on occasion and each time the threaded part of the bolt came out very very easily after drilling a small hole in the center of the bolt; just enough to get a small extractor in the hole to get a grip. However, I would do this as the last resort since you may end up having to drill a lot more and use a larger screw type extractor which are ok so long as they don’t break off. When they break inside the hole now that’s a pain.

Although after looking at your photo it looks like that drain plug is a little bit recessed in the housing of what it goes into and if that's the case that will present a problem with grinding it flush unless it doesn't matter if a little bit of the housing is ground off.

markc123

I had the same problem a while back with the same drain plug. I used a very large pair of channellock pliers.. 20 inch long pliers which gave me lots of leverage..
99D3c2 do you remember this? It was your car I was working on... Good Luck
mark