Aaron

Just curious do you take the car to bare metal prior to painting.

 

Aaron,

What? Another Porsche in Moorpark? Hey bud, there's not room in this town for the both of us. Just kidding, of course. Where do you take your car for maintenance and heaven forbid, repair?

 

On mine I am not going to, most of the chips are only in the clear, and I am replacing the bumper. The rest of the car has no dents. Stripping the car is not necessary, only if rust is an issue, or hidden bondo.

 

Even though I have my shop does mechanical, we don't specialize in p-cars. I go to San Carlos German. Dealers hate independents, and will bash them whenever they get a chance. My 60k service was done for $400 cheaper than a local dealer which I will not name. When I took it to the dealer a thousand miles later for the wiring harness replace, I took the service tags from SC German off to see if they would try to upsell, which of course they did. I faxed over the receipt for the belts that he was saying needed replacing, that shut him up real fast.

 

I personally if I was to buy another car and found out that it was repainted as long as no wrecks were involved it would be a blessing. I have seen cars that have the original paint and from daily driving and/or track driving the paint looks horrible. I guess I would rather have the car look newer than look beat up.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Ray Calvo:
<strong>Personally, I would not repaint.

- Repaints are softer than OE, so more subject to chips. YOU can never bake a repaint the way the factory does it.

- I have seen very few 911 repaints done where when you walk around the car, it does not SAY "repaint". The fender to top cowl point is the most obvious; very hard to do a quality job around that plastic filler piece.

- YOu'll NEVER get your money back!

Whenever I see a repaint, I would automatically think it's due to a wreck - no matter what the owner would say.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I have to agree with Ray - when my car first came back from the bodyshop, it looked great. But upon close inspection, and glazing with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, I began to notice the defects. Nobody would notice these, except for a potential buyer in the future. Of course, I'm "never" going to sell this car, but for my peace of mind, I sent the car back to the bodyshop, who happily agreed to work on my page long list of defects.

That was over a month ago, and they still have my car. <img border="0" alt="[crying]" title="" src="graemlins/crying.gif" />

I was surprised how well newly painted nose looked. They blended the fenders (and got rid of the chips there), and I thought they repainted the hood. Before the accident, there were some pretty large chips that I tried fixing with Langka. When I got the car back, there was NO TRACE of them. I had a quibble about the leading edge of the hood, and I pointed that out to the bodyshop. They respectfully said they didn't repaint the hood, only touched up the chips. That mark was there to begin with (I didn't argue - I was afraid of that). They did one hell of a good job touching up those chips, and I have the Adventurine Green (dark metallic green).

I plan to protect that nice soft paint with Invinca-Shield. I'm amazed at how well the front end looks repainted (it helps that it's a Euro Turbo cover now, with S intakes ), and I want to protect it as well as I can. What makes stone chips worse are the tiny specs of paint that are blasted away by fine particles hitting the car all across the bumper - much too small to repair individually. You can only touch up the large chips.

I haven't had a chance to check the archives about this, but I figure I'll fire a shot - seems like people have put Zaino down before applying Invinca-Shield/Armorfend/Stongard. Is this accurate - does this work well?

A dealer friend of mine was looking at a TT that another person brought in during a Dealership Experience event. The paint was "so good", that he suspected it was repainted. The techs were going to do a free inspection, and he mentioned this to them. The Techs came back and said yes, from the underside of the car, it looked like it had some major body work done to it.

 

AJ,

The Invincashield is a great DIY kit. I have installed a number of pieces and been very happy with the quality and customer service. It's fun to install.

Invincashield's instructions and video specifically say to clean the car's surface with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover (get at any good auto-body paint shop) before installing the pieces. This is the final step prior to installation of the invincashield.

The 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover will remove the Zaino - the body shops use it for removing wax prior to painting.

I had my bumperettes removed front and rear and both bumper covers repainted (Arena Red Metallic)a month ago. The body shop said to wait 30 days before waxing or installing the invincashield. I've waxed with Zaino last weekend and will install the new invincashield pieces in a week or two.

Mike Cap
1997 C2
Arena Red

 

Steve in Moorpark

I have seen your car in town and it is beautiful, I hope this praise will make room for my c2 in our tiny town. I have used Monaco Motors in Canoga Park for an oil change and alignment and they did an ok job. I have not had to do any other maintenance as of this posting. I did have my door stop fix and I used Precision Auto Body in Thousand Oaks and they did a fantastic job. I hope this helps, look forward to seeing you in town.

Gary

 

Gary,

Hope to see you around and get a chance to talk. I have an appt with Rusnak on March 31 to get the wirng harness recall taken care of. The good news is their chief Porsche mechanic is Mike Schatz of Schatz Motorsports. The bad news is the ~$100/hr labor rate. On the door-stop; mine doesn't clunk, but neither does it stop the door. Is that the same thing you had fixed? What's involved? How much?

 

Steve

I had the deraded clunk with the drivers door, they fix the door stop in the door. When the reinstale the door and closed it the stop broke inside the jam. This was fixed by a weld to the stop in the door jam. Cost was approx. 300 I feel the work was done well. By the way I also had the wiring harness replaced by Rusnak in December.

Gary

 

FWIW, I had my previous 993 repainted with a colour change. I did it at the local Porsche dealership..I made sure I took loads of pictures before , during and after.. Also I got a certificate from the Porsche dealership that the car did not have a dent prior to repainting. Car came out Artic Silver, outstanding, and was resold at a profit..Then again it was Mint green! Also with very low mileage..

 

A'95 993 with 100,000 miles on it isn't going to have it's value lowered by a high quality repaint.

If you keep the car another 4 years it is going to matter.

It will probably be a 25,000 car anyway.

 

Hi Ray,

Just wondering...

At what stage do you stop considering a repainted/touched up 911 a wreck and start thinking of it as restored? Presumably nearly all race and rally cars are wrecks as well?

Cheers,

David
<img border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" title="" src="graemlins/drink.gif" />

 

3m makes a film that a professional window tint shop can apply to the front of your car that looks transparent and doesn't yellow. It's about a $4oo to $500 investment.