check engine light @ 59,000 miles
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: South Florida
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Ok Guys-
Here's my question. Tried using search function to investigate the dreaded carbon build-up or any response about CEL. John must be working on system because I cannot get into search mode tonight.
Anyway, drove my car to work today. Everything was great. We had a torrential downpour this afternoon which the car sat parked through. At end of day my wife took my buddy to pick up his Dodge, (Drips Oil, Drips Gas Everywhere!), pickup from the shop. As she is driving, car starts to hesitate like its losing spark and CEL comes on. She continues slowly and then the problem dissapeared. Car is now running great, as usual but light is still on.
Could something have gotten wet during the downpour?, if so, and it dried out why didn't the CEL go out?
Any ideas?, could that hesitation/ possible loss of spark/ misfire be carbon build-up?
Where should I start?????
Your help is highly regarded. Thanks in advance....
Mike
Here's my question. Tried using search function to investigate the dreaded carbon build-up or any response about CEL. John must be working on system because I cannot get into search mode tonight.
Anyway, drove my car to work today. Everything was great. We had a torrential downpour this afternoon which the car sat parked through. At end of day my wife took my buddy to pick up his Dodge, (Drips Oil, Drips Gas Everywhere!), pickup from the shop. As she is driving, car starts to hesitate like its losing spark and CEL comes on. She continues slowly and then the problem dissapeared. Car is now running great, as usual but light is still on.
Could something have gotten wet during the downpour?, if so, and it dried out why didn't the CEL go out?
Any ideas?, could that hesitation/ possible loss of spark/ misfire be carbon build-up?
Where should I start?????
Your help is highly regarded. Thanks in advance....
Mike
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#2
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The carbon build up problem does not cause any noticeable performance problems.Moisture inside one of your distributor caps could cause sputtering, which may cause a misfire fault, resulting in CEL light activating. Could be any number of things.
#3
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Mike, I just had my ignition wires replaced in an effort to find the cause of a CEL (Cash Evaporation Light) that is perpetually on. CEL code was misfire.
One of the ways the shop said they test the ignition wires is to spray water, from a spray bottle, on the wires and see if there's any interruption in the way the car runs. Idea is if there are any cracks in the wires, the water mist will attract electricty, and the engine will misfire and run rough. FYI, my car is a 6/95 build date with 54K miles, and had the upper end rebuild at 48K.
Leaving your car in the rain might have been equivalent to the water test, with the electrical system arcing, causing the CEL.
BTW, I barely know what I'm talking about, so take the above with a grain of salt.
One of the ways the shop said they test the ignition wires is to spray water, from a spray bottle, on the wires and see if there's any interruption in the way the car runs. Idea is if there are any cracks in the wires, the water mist will attract electricty, and the engine will misfire and run rough. FYI, my car is a 6/95 build date with 54K miles, and had the upper end rebuild at 48K.
Leaving your car in the rain might have been equivalent to the water test, with the electrical system arcing, causing the CEL.
BTW, I barely know what I'm talking about, so take the above with a grain of salt.
#4
RL Technical Advisor
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Hi Mike:
First, if your ignition wires, caps, & rotors are original at 59K, its really time for new ones. That makes a big difference.
LeeR offered some pearls of wisdom here although his reasoning needs some refinement,...![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Over time, all those ignition components break down from heat and their insulation loses its resistance. When the ignition wires get wet in a hard rainstorm, they will arc to ground since water is a conductor of electricity.
You can see this for yourself with the spray bottle test on a hot, running engine. Give the wires and distributor caps a good soaking with a water-filled spray bottle and watch your own version of St. Elmo's fire,...![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The misfire code is what tripped the CE light and it will go out on its own after the misfires are cured. Since the cats do NOT like misfires (giant EGT spikes), I'd strongly recommend that you attend to this ASAP as those parts are far far cheaper than new cats.
First, if your ignition wires, caps, & rotors are original at 59K, its really time for new ones. That makes a big difference.
LeeR offered some pearls of wisdom here although his reasoning needs some refinement,...
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Over time, all those ignition components break down from heat and their insulation loses its resistance. When the ignition wires get wet in a hard rainstorm, they will arc to ground since water is a conductor of electricity.
You can see this for yourself with the spray bottle test on a hot, running engine. Give the wires and distributor caps a good soaking with a water-filled spray bottle and watch your own version of St. Elmo's fire,...
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The misfire code is what tripped the CE light and it will go out on its own after the misfires are cured. Since the cats do NOT like misfires (giant EGT spikes), I'd strongly recommend that you attend to this ASAP as those parts are far far cheaper than new cats.