Engine out projects
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver
Engine out projects
I have a '96 993 C4S and currently have the engine out getting resealed at a shop.
They delivered the rolling chassis back to me while they work on the engine and transmission.
So, it's sitting in my garage and I am wondering about some winter projects I can work on.
I am going to replace the Sound Absorber Pad at the rear of the engine bay. Anyone have any experience replacing this?
Is there an automotive adhesive that I can use that will tolerate high temps?
This video was helpful from Bearded Garage:
But he doesn't mention the adhesive he used.
Amongst other projects, I was also considering installing the Short Shift Kit from FD Motorsports. How do people feel about this upgrade?
I would appreciate any other suggestions or comments.
Thanks
They delivered the rolling chassis back to me while they work on the engine and transmission.
So, it's sitting in my garage and I am wondering about some winter projects I can work on.
I am going to replace the Sound Absorber Pad at the rear of the engine bay. Anyone have any experience replacing this?
Is there an automotive adhesive that I can use that will tolerate high temps?
This video was helpful from Bearded Garage:
But he doesn't mention the adhesive he used.
Amongst other projects, I was also considering installing the Short Shift Kit from FD Motorsports. How do people feel about this upgrade?
I would appreciate any other suggestions or comments.
Thanks
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 218
From: Canada
First and foremost you need to get someone to take a photo of you standing in the empty engine bay. This is a right of passage with 911s IMO 
Here is my list I'd do:
1.Consider obsessively cleaning/degreasing the entire engine bay and components so it's pristine.
2. Golden Rod and RS SSK - This mod really tightens up the shifting experience. I was blown away by what the stock shift rod rubber bushing looks like - the ultimate in slop.
3. Replace your engine lid shocks
4. Once you replace your engine sound pad, consider a Pad Keeper.
5. Look at the condition of your engine mounts. Mine suddenly leaked the hydro fluid and replacing them with the engine in turned out to be a bit of a mission due to the limited space.
Here is my list I'd do:
1.Consider obsessively cleaning/degreasing the entire engine bay and components so it's pristine.
2. Golden Rod and RS SSK - This mod really tightens up the shifting experience. I was blown away by what the stock shift rod rubber bushing looks like - the ultimate in slop.
3. Replace your engine lid shocks
4. Once you replace your engine sound pad, consider a Pad Keeper.
5. Look at the condition of your engine mounts. Mine suddenly leaked the hydro fluid and replacing them with the engine in turned out to be a bit of a mission due to the limited space.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Upstate NY
For an adhesive I would recommend Pliobond Industrial adhesive. You can buy it in pint containers with a brush built into the screw cap. Pliobond is a great adhesive used a lot in general aviation.
I second the recommendation for the Pad Keeper.
I second the recommendation for the Pad Keeper.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 45
Likes: 10
When I did my sound pad (1976 911S) we used 3M vinyl roof cement. Worked great and stayed put. This was pre-pad keeper, we used a corner bead from home depot. Also worked great. If you are not familiar with contact cements, its important to get both surfaces clean and then well coated with cement and then join them when the glue is tacky. Not too wet, not too dry. Good luck with it. Its a nice upgrade.
Cruisin'
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 9
Likes: 2
I used 3M Auto Advanced Black Weatherstrip Adhesive when I replaced my sound pad earlier this year on my 4S and also have the pad keeper. As previously mentioned, do the lid struts unless you know they've already been done previously and go with the OEM Porsche struts. Golden Rod and Short Shift Kit are well worth the investment.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver
Thanks Jakob,
Did you upgrade the engine mounts, and if so, what did you go with?
Did you use any adhesive when replacing the engine pad, and if so which one do you recommend?
Thanks!
Did you upgrade the engine mounts, and if so, what did you go with?
Did you use any adhesive when replacing the engine pad, and if so which one do you recommend?
Thanks!
Last edited by mikemedic; Dec 9, 2025 at 04:12 PM.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver
First and foremost you need to get someone to take a photo of you standing in the empty engine bay. This is a right of passage with 911s IMO
Here is my list I'd do:
1.Consider obsessively cleaning/degreasing the entire engine bay and components so it's pristine.
2. Golden Rod and RS SSK - This mod really tightens up the shifting experience. I was blown away by what the stock shift rod rubber bushing looks like - the ultimate in slop.
3. Replace your engine lid shocks
4. Once you replace your engine sound pad, consider a Pad Keeper.
5. Look at the condition of your engine mounts. Mine suddenly leaked the hydro fluid and replacing them with the engine in turned out to be a bit of a mission due to the limited space.
Here is my list I'd do:
1.Consider obsessively cleaning/degreasing the entire engine bay and components so it's pristine.
2. Golden Rod and RS SSK - This mod really tightens up the shifting experience. I was blown away by what the stock shift rod rubber bushing looks like - the ultimate in slop.
3. Replace your engine lid shocks
4. Once you replace your engine sound pad, consider a Pad Keeper.
5. Look at the condition of your engine mounts. Mine suddenly leaked the hydro fluid and replacing them with the engine in turned out to be a bit of a mission due to the limited space.
Did you upgrade the engine mounts, and if so, what did you go with?
Did you use any adhesive when replacing the engine pad, and if so which one do you recommend?
Thanks!
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,963
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From: Colorado
While you're in there, start getting after the rubber. Replace the power steering belt, all rubber fuel lines, intake manifold boots, vacuum lines, and if you're planning on doing subframe bushes, no better time. Check your clutch wear and rear main seal as well as shift rod seal.
I realize many of those are on the engine but while it's out, better to do them.
I realize many of those are on the engine but while it's out, better to do them.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,922
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From: Canada
EDIT: Regarding engine sound pad.. i removed and did not replace mine at the time...so I do not have any reccos for adhesives.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 33
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From: Vancouver
Hey no worries! I did not update them to poly Wevos or anything like that -- just bought Porsche Genuine mounts. I already had a LWFW, an RS clutch, as well as a FDM solid transmision mount so I had enough NVH in the cabin. The stock units are just fine for street driving IMO. If you're looking for increased performance on track, then I've read great things about the Wevo units.
EDIT: Regarding engine sound pad.. i removed and did not replace mine at the time...so I do not have any reccos for adhesives.
EDIT: Regarding engine sound pad.. i removed and did not replace mine at the time...so I do not have any reccos for adhesives.
Do you recommend the FDM solid transmission mounts when doing the Golden Rod/SSK upgrade?
Thanks again
P.S.: Missing the old 993 yet? or are you having too much fun in the 991 GT3T??
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From: Florida
The engine lid struts replacement might seem a very minor thing, but I echo that recommendation. I just did the RH side (still need to do the LH) and took me a lot of time for what should be a 15 min job. What a royal pain to remove the MAF and make it fit back in the Air Filter Housing and the Hose. I like the idea about the Fuel Lines / Filters too.
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,922
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From: Canada
... But in hindsight, the LWFW, RS clutch and FDM Transmission mount was total overkill for street driving. It just added more buzzy noise in the cabin, which I know a lot of people like, but for a Sunday driver that seldom ended up seeing the track, it was a lot. If I was going to do it again, I would've left the dual mass flywheel and omitted the transmission mount all together . The dough is better spent on thorough maintenance, cosmetic updates, PPF, Michelins, and fuel!Regarding the GT3 Touring, it' keeps bringing a smile to my face every time I take it out. It's a really special experience, and I have zero regrets moving on from my 993 C4S to get into it. The current values of the widebody 993s are a tough proposition vs the driving experience IMO. Having said that, I do miss the air cooled vibes, the vintage leather, hot oil smell and the charming chatter of the engine. I'll most likely pick up another 993 in the future but a Cabriolet or Targa. The Touring is really special and staying put.
.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 33
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver
I used 3M Auto Advanced Black Weatherstrip Adhesive when I replaced my sound pad earlier this year on my 4S and also have the pad keeper. As previously mentioned, do the lid struts unless you know they've already been done previously and go with the OEM Porsche struts. Golden Rod and Short Shift Kit are well worth the investment.
The 3M Auto Advanced Black Weatherstrip Adhesive might be the best option.
I appreciate the help.