engine rebuild at 70k miles
#1
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engine rebuild at 70k miles
It seems I will have to split my crankcase to fix a worsening leak that appeared from the seam recently. My mechanic said it happened to his at 60K miles, and that most people rebuild around this time and they are good for another 70K miles. Has anyone else heard this or expierienced this? They can do a 3.8 conversion with the cams for around $5000, I think it's a good deal, although I am disapointed to learn that the motors don't last longer. Oh and this is a reputable mechanic who has worked on Porsches for a long time, it's Renen in South Tampa.
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um well.. I hate to tell you that the 95 993 we bought has the original engine (not touched by a rebuild) with 94K miles and still going..
my other half is a master mechanic and said that it was clearly evident that the engine has NOT been touched.. much less the suspension or even clutch when he changed it at 92k miles...
..and the car runs strong! ..no leaks... etc.
I dunno about other's experiences though..
my other half is a master mechanic and said that it was clearly evident that the engine has NOT been touched.. much less the suspension or even clutch when he changed it at 92k miles...
..and the car runs strong! ..no leaks... etc.
I dunno about other's experiences though..
#4
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Hi Sean:
I hate to sound contentious, but your mechanic's comment about 993's needing a rebuild at 60K-70K miles is NOT industry experience,...
FWIW, I do talk to many shops & dealer techs around the country as an integral part of what I do and these engines will go well over 100K, albeit with the occasional heat-triggered oil leaks. Typically, the internals are just fine.
The only part of the 993 engine that can be short-lived are the valve guides. Porsche uses a very soft material and these are well known & documented for needing replacement between 40K and 80K in most of these things. One will know when oil consumption increases to a quart or more per 1000 miles.
Last,....I am quite suspicious of a $5K 3.8 upgrade that includes the cams. The Mahle 3.8 P/C's are almost that by themselves, now,....
I hate to sound contentious, but your mechanic's comment about 993's needing a rebuild at 60K-70K miles is NOT industry experience,...
FWIW, I do talk to many shops & dealer techs around the country as an integral part of what I do and these engines will go well over 100K, albeit with the occasional heat-triggered oil leaks. Typically, the internals are just fine.
The only part of the 993 engine that can be short-lived are the valve guides. Porsche uses a very soft material and these are well known & documented for needing replacement between 40K and 80K in most of these things. One will know when oil consumption increases to a quart or more per 1000 miles.
Last,....I am quite suspicious of a $5K 3.8 upgrade that includes the cams. The Mahle 3.8 P/C's are almost that by themselves, now,....
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I was at Hergesheimer's last week, and Mark said he is seeing a rash of 993s needing valve jobs starting at 40K miles. I told him I didn't want to hear it, as I just turned 39K.
#7
I would be surprised if it was usual to rebuild at this mileage - even the cursed valve guides / SAI check light issue requires only the heads off, not a bottom end rebuild.
Having said that, if the crankcase is leaking, surely it needs fixing - though can the O-rings not be replaced woth out a full disassembly?
Finally - i wouldn't dream of paying $5k for a 3.8 conversion.
Having said that, if the crankcase is leaking, surely it needs fixing - though can the O-rings not be replaced woth out a full disassembly?
Finally - i wouldn't dream of paying $5k for a 3.8 conversion.
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I have no doubt I could drive the car past 100k miles, but I don't like the oil leak the car runs great, I had the top end done a year ago to fix the clogged air port problem. But if your going to the trouble of splitting the motor you might as well rebuild the bottomend while your there. So you guys with over 100k miles are saying you have no leaks?
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Mine 95 is 125 000 miles (204 000 km) ex "autobahn" germany cars
no oil leaks, minimal oil consumption, good performance
I will try to make another 100 000 if everything will be fine
about 3.8 conversion, look here
http://instant-g.com/Products/36Conversion/38.html
sometimes this guys just amaze me...
loook for this web site - lot of aswers
no oil leaks, minimal oil consumption, good performance
I will try to make another 100 000 if everything will be fine
about 3.8 conversion, look here
http://instant-g.com/Products/36Conversion/38.html
sometimes this guys just amaze me...
loook for this web site - lot of aswers
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Sean,
...Excuse the long post, but hopefully this will give you another view as I have done some research on this and would not agree with your mechanic that 60-70k between rebuilds and a 3.8 for 5k...
My 60k mile 993 does have a pretty good leak from where the crank exits the engine case. I have done a lot of talking with very knowledgeable 993ers and the concensus is that it is a neusance and not really a problem. I understand your desire to fix the leak as I thought I would do that this winter, but the costs get up there pretty quickly. Like Steve Weiner said, unless you are losing a quart per 1000miles I wouldn't worry about it and just keep an eye on the oil levels.
I have spent a bunch of time with Steve on the phone (thanks again Steve!!! and I hope you don't mind me posting the output of our conversations) and this is what he and others have suggested I do when I split the case to fix the leak (I plan on doing this at 100k unless it is required sooner):
- Valve job w/ better valve guides - ($?)
- important - how to attach valves to guides
- never ream guides (hand hone them) to be centered
- Upgrade valve springs and retainers ($450 + $300)
- New rod bolts ($250)
- Rod bearing ($250)
- Intermediate shaft bearings ($200)
- Main bearings ($200)
- Premium grade gaskets (better than oem) ($450)
- take b/t 30-40 hours of time
Right here the parts are $2100 and there are other parts required and this doesn't even include the $3000+ for the technician. This is already over 5k, but doing these components correctly will ensure the engine is better than originally delivered from a longevity stand point and should last at least another 200k before needing any work.
With regard to the 3.8L conversion for 5k, the 3.8L conversion kit (parts only) is about 13k on Gert's site, so I would be very suspect of a 3.8 for 5k.
Hope this gives you some insight and an additional data point.
-Skip
...Excuse the long post, but hopefully this will give you another view as I have done some research on this and would not agree with your mechanic that 60-70k between rebuilds and a 3.8 for 5k...
My 60k mile 993 does have a pretty good leak from where the crank exits the engine case. I have done a lot of talking with very knowledgeable 993ers and the concensus is that it is a neusance and not really a problem. I understand your desire to fix the leak as I thought I would do that this winter, but the costs get up there pretty quickly. Like Steve Weiner said, unless you are losing a quart per 1000miles I wouldn't worry about it and just keep an eye on the oil levels.
I have spent a bunch of time with Steve on the phone (thanks again Steve!!! and I hope you don't mind me posting the output of our conversations) and this is what he and others have suggested I do when I split the case to fix the leak (I plan on doing this at 100k unless it is required sooner):
- Valve job w/ better valve guides - ($?)
- important - how to attach valves to guides
- never ream guides (hand hone them) to be centered
- Upgrade valve springs and retainers ($450 + $300)
- New rod bolts ($250)
- Rod bearing ($250)
- Intermediate shaft bearings ($200)
- Main bearings ($200)
- Premium grade gaskets (better than oem) ($450)
- take b/t 30-40 hours of time
Right here the parts are $2100 and there are other parts required and this doesn't even include the $3000+ for the technician. This is already over 5k, but doing these components correctly will ensure the engine is better than originally delivered from a longevity stand point and should last at least another 200k before needing any work.
With regard to the 3.8L conversion for 5k, the 3.8L conversion kit (parts only) is about 13k on Gert's site, so I would be very suspect of a 3.8 for 5k.
Hope this gives you some insight and an additional data point.
-Skip
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Sean, I would recommend taking the car to Joe Vatter at GermanTech across the bay in Largo for a second opinion ... I have known him for years (he is a TechArt dealer as well) and he is as honest as the day is long. He'll give you the straight scoop on whether you need a rebuild or not, and also a more realistic guideline on a 3.8 conversion if that's what you're leaning toward. His number's 800 200 1231. My first experience with Joe was when Reeves Porsche was telling me my 88 3.2 Carrera needed a $5k top-end rebuild at 23k miles due to poor leakdown and sluggish performance. Joe fixed it for three hours of labor -- a happy ending. Tell him Vic from Boston referred you.
Vic
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Vic
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#13
Steve W's personal experience on the subject mirrors my own. I have three cars in the shop right now with over 100k, and they are still going strong with no signs of even nearing a rebuild. I have many customers with north of 60K on the odo and no issues at all. These statements by your mechanic are nothing like I have seen for these cars....
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Related question...
Kind of a related question, is there anything top end wise you could do with the motor in the car to help long term longevity?
Car I'm buying is at 92k miles, is there anything worth doing that can be done without breaking the case apart to help long term survival / revving characteristics?
Was wondering if upgrading valve springs or the like is worth while doing or just wait for a total rebuild at some point. I think it's the valve guides that wear out early? How hard are they to replace?
Car I'm buying is at 92k miles, is there anything worth doing that can be done without breaking the case apart to help long term survival / revving characteristics?
Was wondering if upgrading valve springs or the like is worth while doing or just wait for a total rebuild at some point. I think it's the valve guides that wear out early? How hard are they to replace?
#15
I did a rebuild in conjunction with dealing with the secondary air injector issue at about 55k miles. The valve guides were starting to show minor wear and there was some pitting on the cam shafts...all great excuses for upgrades...but nothing in and of itself enough to warrant a rebuild....but since we were there anyway...