UK meet lastnight
#47
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Originally posted by Tito:
<STRONG>Is that a halo above John's head?</STRONG>
<STRONG>Is that a halo above John's head?</STRONG>
Tito, that made me laugh out loud - the guys in the office came to see what was the matter !
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Riccardo, if you want Litronics, I'm sure we can glue some to your bonnet
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If you have seperate hi & lo beam bulbs, its possible, else don't bother.
Gert, steve is partially correct. Some of us didn't drink 7 pints, but did hit 140 on the way home (and that wasn't on the motorway !)
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Rob, have you placed your order yet ?
Thinking about it, have you got your car back yet ??
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Cheers,
John.
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John,
It's still in GT-One though I'll be getting it back on Thursday. The whole lower bank of tappets have been replaced. Apparently the sound is 95% better. I'll get the rest done next year sometime. I just have to wait for my sunroof scratch to be repaired (at my cost).
See ya later
Rob
It's still in GT-One though I'll be getting it back on Thursday. The whole lower bank of tappets have been replaced. Apparently the sound is 95% better. I'll get the rest done next year sometime. I just have to wait for my sunroof scratch to be repaired (at my cost).
See ya later
Rob
#51
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Wot! Sitting in a pub and not a beer glass in sight...?
And what's the deal with all those electronic communication devices cluttering up the table...?
You'd never get way with it 'up North'.
--Paul--
And what's the deal with all those electronic communication devices cluttering up the table...?
You'd never get way with it 'up North'.
--Paul--
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Eric, Tito,
Did you buy the lamps at this discount? Did you mention John's conversation?
Rob
John W: Autolamps will give us a 10% discount on their kits for the 4300k HID H1 kits.
That brings them down from 440 GBP to 400GBP.
If you specifically want the newer cool blue 6000k kits, they run at about 580GBP, and they can only offer 20GBP off this at the moment (supply & demand I guess).
That brings them down from 440 GBP to 400GBP.
If you specifically want the newer cool blue 6000k kits, they run at about 580GBP, and they can only offer 20GBP off this at the moment (supply & demand I guess).
Rob
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Hi Rob,
I mentioned John's password and conversation. Janet, the lady that I spoke to, said that the discount of 10% would be refunded. But that this refund was on the condition that three people made the order using John's password.
I figured that I would go for it anyway as the discount was only £40 , and if you guys ordered maybe I would get the £40 back (no pressure here at all
).
I cant' wait to get may hands on the kit!
Tito
I mentioned John's password and conversation. Janet, the lady that I spoke to, said that the discount of 10% would be refunded. But that this refund was on the condition that three people made the order using John's password.
I figured that I would go for it anyway as the discount was only £40 , and if you guys ordered maybe I would get the £40 back (no pressure here at all
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I cant' wait to get may hands on the kit!
Tito
#55
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Rob,
I think both Tito and Eric mentioned this.
Well, I hope they did !
Maybe they can tell you whether they ordered online via the website, or just via email.
I've had some conversations with Nick @ autolamps following some qwuestions Tito raised. He also mentioned to me that he had seen both their orders, and I told him that he could expect calls from you three.
That picture does make us all look a bit sad, doesn't it.
Oh, and Paul, the beer glasses had already been cleared, as had the coffee cups !!
Hopefully next time we'll get a pic of the cars too
I think both Tito and Eric mentioned this.
Well, I hope they did !
Maybe they can tell you whether they ordered online via the website, or just via email.
I've had some conversations with Nick @ autolamps following some qwuestions Tito raised. He also mentioned to me that he had seen both their orders, and I told him that he could expect calls from you three.
That picture does make us all look a bit sad, doesn't it.
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Oh, and Paul, the beer glasses had already been cleared, as had the coffee cups !!
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Hopefully next time we'll get a pic of the cars too
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Hi Rob,
This may be a silly question , but I will ask it anyway.
What are the consequences of the noisy tappets that you and others have had? Apart from the noise?
I assume that leaving them would be pretty bad as repairing them sounds quite expensive.
What would happen if you just left them? Would the engine turn itself in to a grenade or what?
Tito
This may be a silly question , but I will ask it anyway.
What are the consequences of the noisy tappets that you and others have had? Apart from the noise?
I assume that leaving them would be pretty bad as repairing them sounds quite expensive.
What would happen if you just left them? Would the engine turn itself in to a grenade or what?
Tito
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Now that you guys have whetted my desire for brighter bulbs, I have been considering the PIAA high output ones. Not a Litronic, I know, but should still return some enhanced brightness performance. And, cost is just £45!
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Hi Tito,
(sorry this is a long one)
I'm not sure what the consequences of leaving the tappets would be, though it can't be good. From the autorepair.about.com site:
From cranecams.com
http://www.cranecams.com/hydlfaq.htm
Also look at:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm
Do I get 5 stars now?
(sorry this is a long one)
I'm not sure what the consequences of leaving the tappets would be, though it can't be good. From the autorepair.about.com site:
Also called "followers" or "tappets," they are the components that ride on the cam lobes and help "lift" the valves open. There are two basic types: solid and hydraulic. Hydraulic lifters are hollow and fill up with oil to take up slack in the upper valve train. Low oil pressure, loss of pressure from the lifters or plugged oil holes in the lifters can result in a "clattering" sound that's referred to as "noisy lifters." Hydraulic lifters do not require periodic adjustment but solid lifters do to maintain the correct amount of valve lash.
http://www.cranecams.com/hydlfaq.htm
Hydraulic lifters have been the choice of the automotive industry for many years for several good reasons. when compared to a mechanical lifter, the hydraulics are:
1. Quieter.
2. Low maintenance.
3. An ability to adjust for thermal expansion of the engine.
4. Built in shock absorber, eases stress on valve train.
5. “Bleed Rate” can be designed to accommodate different engine RPM ranges. Today’s modern engines all use either the standard design hydraulic lifter or the new low friction, high performance hydraulic roller design. Hydraulic lifters are the best for street applications, high performance, and mild racing applications where low maintenance is a primary concern.
What happens if the amount of Hydraulic Lifter Preload is wrong?
If clearance exists between the pushrod and the seat in the hydraulic lifter, after the rocker arm assembly has been torqued down, you will have no lifter preload. In this case the valve train will be noisy when the engine is running. All of the hydraulic force produced by the lifter will be exerted against the lifter’s retaining lock, and this could cause the lock to fail.
If the opposite occurs and the pushrod descends too far (more than .060”
, then you have excessive lifter preload. In theory, a hydraulic lifter can pump up whatever preload you put into it, therefore with excessive preload, as the engine RPM and oil pressure increases, the hydraulic mechanism will pump-up the pushrod seat. This will cause the valve to be open longer and lift higher. This will decrease the cylinder pressure, lowering the performance of the engine. If the preload is excessive it may cause “backfiring” from the engine.
1. Quieter.
2. Low maintenance.
3. An ability to adjust for thermal expansion of the engine.
4. Built in shock absorber, eases stress on valve train.
5. “Bleed Rate” can be designed to accommodate different engine RPM ranges. Today’s modern engines all use either the standard design hydraulic lifter or the new low friction, high performance hydraulic roller design. Hydraulic lifters are the best for street applications, high performance, and mild racing applications where low maintenance is a primary concern.
What happens if the amount of Hydraulic Lifter Preload is wrong?
If clearance exists between the pushrod and the seat in the hydraulic lifter, after the rocker arm assembly has been torqued down, you will have no lifter preload. In this case the valve train will be noisy when the engine is running. All of the hydraulic force produced by the lifter will be exerted against the lifter’s retaining lock, and this could cause the lock to fail.
If the opposite occurs and the pushrod descends too far (more than .060”
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http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm
Do I get 5 stars now?
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John - I'm going to order the lamps as soon as I get the car back from GT-One. I'm musing over getting the new lamps:
Do you think the newer versions are worth the premium?
Finally, I don't understand why I've only got two stars against my name - I've been on Rennlist for years now and posted hundred of mails on the 993-996 board. I've only just come back to the 993 board after being cast into the wilderness of the turbo board (waste of time). Do I have to be a member or something before hitting this exalted status? Or is it just a petty means of discrimination?
If you specifically want the newer cool blue 6000k kits, they run at about 580GBP, and they can only offer 20GBP off this at the moment (supply & demand I guess).
Finally, I don't understand why I've only got two stars against my name - I've been on Rennlist for years now and posted hundred of mails on the 993-996 board. I've only just come back to the 993 board after being cast into the wilderness of the turbo board (waste of time). Do I have to be a member or something before hitting this exalted status? Or is it just a petty means of discrimination?
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