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Front Control Arm Reinstall Notch

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Old Feb 17, 2024 | 06:14 PM
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From: St. Louis Park MN
Default Front Control Arm Reinstall Notch

I have two front control arms with new bushings, but am wondering on reinstall how I am supposed to align the notch on the front bushing? With the front suspension unloaded the angle of the control arm is not flat so the notch does not line up with the subframe, should I place a jack under the arm and load it so the notch lines up?
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Old Feb 17, 2024 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by n00ax
I have two front control arms with new bushings, but am wondering on reinstall how I am supposed to align the notch on the front bushing? With the front suspension unloaded the angle of the control arm is not flat so the notch does not line up with the subframe, should I place a jack under the arm and load it so the notch lines up?
Correct. For all bushings, final torque should be done while loaded and on level ground. The easiest way to reach underneath is to have the car up on something like QuickJacks or a lift, and lower the wheels onto something elevated, like the level top of ramps, blocks of wood, big drum barrels, etc.
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Old Feb 17, 2024 | 10:32 PM
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Install the control first with nothing else attached. I don't think the forward bolt will even go in unless the notch is lined up. the control arm will be about parallel to the ground. In stall the bolt but do not fully torque it until you can have the whole thing assembled and loaded. Even without the final torque on the forward bolt, you will have to pull the control arm down to install the strut. The notch is holding the bushing and not allowing it to rotate. For the rear bushing (actually two facing bushings) nothing is holding them from rotating with the arm. Install the bolt and nut but just snug it up. Again, final torque to be applied when car is loaded.
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Old Feb 17, 2024 | 11:50 PM
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How much of the front suspension do you have disassembled?

I assume you replaced the bushings so the front control arm is the first thing you install back to the front side frames. Snug tight as you will later torque it under load.

next put the front carriers on torque it. Then attach the strut to the carrier snug tight.

Set your ride height then torque your control arms.

Do a toe, camber, caster alignment (if you put new ball joints on your control arms) and torque everything else.

Last edited by samurai_k; Feb 17, 2024 at 11:55 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2024 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Floyd540
Install the control first with nothing else attached. I don't think the forward bolt will even go in unless the notch is lined up. the control arm will be about parallel to the ground. In stall the bolt but do not fully torque it until you can have the whole thing assembled and loaded. Even without the final torque on the forward bolt, you will have to pull the control arm down to install the strut. The notch is holding the bushing and not allowing it to rotate. For the rear bushing (actually two facing bushings) nothing is holding them from rotating with the arm. Install the bolt and nut but just snug it up. Again, final torque to be applied when car is loaded.
I was able to easily insert a bolt into the forward bushing without the notch totally lined up. The notch is almost in the slit of the front subframe, so I am guessing that if the car is loaded the notch will easily slot in as you suggest. The control arm wont go in completely horizontally (as to align with the notch) without interfering with the upright when the suspension is unloaded.

Originally Posted by samurai_k
How much of the front suspension do you have disassembled?

I assume you replaced the bushings so the front control arm is the first thing you install back to the front side frames. Snug tight as you will later torque it under load.

next put the front carriers on torque it. Then attach the strut to the carrier snug tight.

Set your ride height then torque your control arms.

Do a toe, camber, caster alignment (if you put new ball joints on your control arms) and torque everything else.
Got it, did not disassemble much (only control arms removed), the shocks and springs are pretty new from a previous owner, but the bushings were original and cracked.. I did replace the ball joint but marked it and will bring it in for an alignment after I get the arms reinstalled. In regard to ride height, are you referring to setting the strut ride height (which I did not change) or applying load to the wheel and torquing the bushings once the car is at ride height so the slot locks in?

Thanks! Sorry for my confusion, I have never seen this design for front struts, every other car I have replaced front control arm bushings on (Volvo, Honda, 996TT) has a horizontal bushing in place of the fixed vertical one on the 993.

Last edited by n00ax; Feb 18, 2024 at 02:36 AM.
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Old Feb 18, 2024 | 11:41 AM
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Got it.

So I would

1. install the front control arm with with the ball joint hand tight. Eye ball it so the notch lines up with the side sub frame as it has a notch opening too that is parallel to the ground.

2. Install the carrier on the control arm ball joint. You may need to wrestle the control arm down etc. the rubber bushing will twist despite it being hand tight and locked in with the notch.

removing the anti roll bar link from the carrier sometimes helps if you are having a hard time getting thing to line up. torque the Ball joint nut on the carrier.

You may need a crows foot or torque adapter to get in there if you have not removed the strut from the carrier.

3. if you are having problems getting things to line up remove the strut from the carrier. Get a paint pen and notch the top bolt opening is slotted as that is how the camber is set.





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Old Feb 18, 2024 | 07:39 PM
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I encountered the same issue when I did this last spring- unable to line up with the notch with the car in the air (unloaded). Once I put the wheels back on and lowered the car onto wheel cribs (and maybe turned the wheel slightly left and right) there was an audible *clunk* as each one popped into position. Then torqued to spec with the suspension loaded as others have described above.
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Old Mar 9, 2024 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kkell3232
I encountered the same issue when I did this last spring- unable to line up with the notch with the car in the air (unloaded). Once I put the wheels back on and lowered the car onto wheel cribs (and maybe turned the wheel slightly left and right) there was an audible *clunk* as each one popped into position. Then torqued to spec with the suspension loaded as others have described above.
As a followup, i did the above tonight and it clunked into position after doing the above and everything lined up, thanks!
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Old Mar 10, 2024 | 02:34 PM
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Congrats on good job. Also thanks for the follow up. People on this great forum that are willing to help and have knowledge wants to know how it turned out. Those on this forum who are trying to learn also want to know the results. Many times the reported results may start another interesting thread. Everyone wants to know the end of the story.
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