John D.

Sorry to have all you suffer my 993’s resurrection – but – here is another DIY. It’s pretty simple, but before I made the decision to purchase a Light Weight Flywheel (LWF) and assembly, I have to be honest, I had NO IDEA what the differences were between the Dual mass OEM and the LWF. Sure – I read all the posts as to what the offered – but, I’d never seen one, or seen an install. So, if you are like me – this one is for you….

Last Friday, I made the decision to go the LWF route – largely based on a number of posts and PMs. While Danny’s Andial solution felt right, I’m on a very limited budget. So, in placing an order with Jason at Paragon Product (http://www.paragon-products.com/) for some other parts, I asked him about availability and what he had heard about this conversion. Now, as background, Jason and Paragon are one of the original Rennlist Sponsors – and they are developing a new website – so what I paid what will be a Rennlist Special, along with other 993/964 parts in the near future. Stay tuned – and my thanks Jason!!! I ordered the parts Friday – and they arrived this morning – so this install was done tonite….

Back to the subject at hand.

Sorry – but like the last DIY – you have to remove the engine . So...

Step 1 – remove the engine/transmission.....

- Step 2 – Here is an interesting comparison – the LWF and ring gear compared to the OEM Dual Mass. When you remove the OEM clutch-flywheel – DO NOT drop it on your foot – it seems to weigh a ton . Anyway – mine came off just fine…

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Step 3 – Remove the old crank seal and install a new one. I use a seal puller for old seals. While a screwdriver may work, I don’t like them given the potential damage to the case and edge surfaces. So, grab an edge with the hook, and it will pop right out.


Use a light coat of oil on the new seal where it sets in the case – and around the lip where it sits around the crankshaft. Start to seat it – and be SURE it is started evenly. If in doubt – pull it out, and start over with the hand seating.


To fully seat the new seal – USE THE OLD SEAL! Turn it upside down, and use the metal rib and top to gently seat the new seal. Work slowly around the diameter with gentle taps – and the new seal will seat. Stop when it’s fully seated.



When you are done – it will look like this:

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Step 4 – Insert the new pilot bearing in the flywheel. This is NOT difficult. You’ll need a hockey puck, a socket which has about the same OD as the pilot bearing, and a hammer. First – put a light skim of high temp grease around the bearing surface as it sets inside the flywheel. Next, using the socket topped by a hockey puck – SOFTLY tap the bearing into the flywheel to start it straight. I use the socket to visually watch as it's started - and be assured the bearing is started STRAIGHT.


Once it’s started straight – remove the socket and set the pilot bearing using only the puck and the hammer to finally seat it flush.


Here’s what it looks like installed:


Continued next post…..

John D.

Continued from above post…..


Step 5 – install the flywheel. This is really simple. First – be absolutely CERTAIN both the flywheel and mating surface of the crank are absolutely CLEAN! Next, Just key the flywheel on the crank key dowel. I use two opposing bolts to move the flywheel onto the key and set it flat on the crank. After the flywheel is in position – install the remaining flywheel bolts and torque them to spec.

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Step 6 – Install the ring gear. The ring gear goes on next – but notice the orientation. If you install it incorrectly – you will have a starter engagement problem. Simply set it in place while aligning the bolt holes – and tap it with a rubber mallet around the circumference. Check that the bolt holes remain correctly aligned.

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Step 7 – Install the disc and the pressure plate. Here is where you need the clutch alignment tool – aligning the disc to the flywheel – they need to be “centered” and remain centered as the pressure plate is bolted down. Once everything is aligned – there are 9 bolts around the circumference of the pressure plate which pass through the ring gear and attach the pressure plate to the assembly. Working “around” the circumference – tighten the 9 bolts about 1/2 a turn at a time. It takes a while – but DON’T crank just one down.. Work slowly and consistently. When all the bolts are seated by hand – torque them to their final setting:

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Step 8 – Stand back and admire

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Step 9 – Speed/Reference sensor. Now it the time to recheck your speed reference sensor offset. Mine was at the outer limits of the spec, so I brought it back in by 0.2mm.

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Step 10 – Install the new guide tube in the tranny bell housing. The new tube is somewhat longer, as the release bearing rides closer to the engine in this setup. DO NOT use the OEM tube for the DM setup it is shorter!


That’s it…!


Tomorrow night – the RS mounts go in, the oil return tubes – and with a little luck – I’ll be driving it this week….

Damn – I hope it starts!!!

Ben in Plano, TX

Nice John,

I'll be having this done on mine in the next few days. My DMF is done.

Wish I had time/shop/tools to do it myself - alas - perhaps next time.

Ben

Agro1

Bitchin' John - Excellent writeup. You mised a couple spots of old grease on the motor in pic #5 btw

More time, a shop and more tools - I'd never leave the house

hatchy

John -- Please consider a career in writing shop manuals! :-)

Monique

Excellent pics.

VG writeup.

Well done mate.

Livefreeandrive

John, I will see you after lunch today. Do you need anything from P of Nashua??
Steve

Robert Henriksen

You grew up on Chilton's manuals, didn't you? Shouldn't that be,

Step 1 – simply remove the engine/transmission..... ?

Thanks for the great write-up. You'll have the nicest bone-stock $16k Porsche around.

Greg Fishman

John,
Did you use red loctite on all the flywheel bolts?

Jay Gratton

We did the same did the same thing to the '85 911 John and what a difference! I am sure you will be very pleased with the outcome! Best wishes - Jay Gratton

akolodesh

excellent write-up. Thanks for the good pics. You explain the process well for us mechanically challenged types.

Rick Lee

Ah, those photos bring back pleasant memories of doing the G50 fork update in my Carrera. Job looks almost identical. I can't wait to do this!

John, I assume you'll need a new alignment after you put the engine back in. Or is it possible to mark the bolts and get it straight enough to leave as is? I have an alignment due after I put my new shocks on in two wks. I'd rather not pay for another one later in the summer, but I can't drop the engine just yet.

John D.

Hi folks....

Thanks! If you folks aren't sick of these - I'll keep posting 'em I'm a bit behind in my real job - so I'm not sure what the schedule will be this week - 'cept I'd like to have everything back in and running by this week-end - *if* the rest of the parts show up. Some of the parts I need are $.50 stuff - but Dealer only (like the needle rollers for the release bearing shaft, plastic cups, etc..).....

Also......

Hey Greg! - No, I didn't use Red Loctite..? The factory uses nothing that I'm aware of - but I know many do so. I don't, though? So, I assemble dry - and re-torque several times around.

Hi Rick! - Yes on the alignment afterwards, as you need to drop the rear cross member which ties in some of the rear suspention points...

Thanks again to all..!

John

GratefulJED

John - again, great write up and pics - tell me about the guide tube - did it come with your LWF kit? What is the part number (I'll go revisit PET anyway) - maybe you could plan a trip to NM to help me out!!

Greg Fishman

Reason I asked is that when I did my LWF and race clutch in my mechanic's shop he instructed me to do so. I have no idea if it is neccesary or not but I certainly wasn't going to argue the point as he has done a few more clutch jobs that I have.

BTW good job! You have certainly tackled a big job and your car will look many years younger for that.