Clear coat on head light glass...
#1
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Clear coat on head light glass...
I found a low cost alternative to replacing dull looking rock chipped
head light glass. I've tried using wax as well as Zaino coatings
with little success. I also tried an orbital polisher with an aggressive
compound; this also yielded no visible results.
I sprayed clear coat lacquer on my head light glass and the
results are amazing! The lacquer initially looks 'milky' when it's
applied. But within a few hours it gives a wet smooth look. Most of
the rock chips are now invisible and the few that remain are hardly
noticeable; they practically look new. The 993 head lights are
very easy to remove and install. Once removed, all that's required
is removing the outer rubber gasket surrounding the glass, masking
tape for the housing, and level placement for the glass facing
upward to prevent dripping. If you have bad results on the first
attempt, the clear coat lacquer can easily be removed with Acetone.
Like with everything else, It also helps if you have permission from
the wife department.
head light glass. I've tried using wax as well as Zaino coatings
with little success. I also tried an orbital polisher with an aggressive
compound; this also yielded no visible results.
I sprayed clear coat lacquer on my head light glass and the
results are amazing! The lacquer initially looks 'milky' when it's
applied. But within a few hours it gives a wet smooth look. Most of
the rock chips are now invisible and the few that remain are hardly
noticeable; they practically look new. The 993 head lights are
very easy to remove and install. Once removed, all that's required
is removing the outer rubber gasket surrounding the glass, masking
tape for the housing, and level placement for the glass facing
upward to prevent dripping. If you have bad results on the first
attempt, the clear coat lacquer can easily be removed with Acetone.
Like with everything else, It also helps if you have permission from
the wife department.
#4
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Ray Calvo:
<strong>You driven this sucker with the lights on yet?
Not afraid of burning it off due to heat from lights?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Ray
There may be other problems, but I doubt heat will be one. The lights don't get as hot as my painted & clearcoated rear fenders or R front fender, after a DE session on a 100 deg day.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
<strong>You driven this sucker with the lights on yet?
Not afraid of burning it off due to heat from lights?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Ray
There may be other problems, but I doubt heat will be one. The lights don't get as hot as my painted & clearcoated rear fenders or R front fender, after a DE session on a 100 deg day.
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
#5
If this turns out to be a working idea you could use a high temp clear coat....I wonder if the cleat coat changes the beam pattern or diffuses any of the light coming from the bulb..
#7
The new headlight lenses from Vertex were not that exspensive from memory I think I paid about $120 or so for both and it takes a few minutes to change. I plan on buying clear protection for them from performance products to protect them. I guess if the clear coat works it is better than paying $120.00
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Great idea! I replaced my lenses when they got pitted but this has appeal due to the cheap $$$. I doubt if it will affect the light...a very thin layer of lacquer will not do much compared to the much thicker layer of plastic the light has to go though. The 993 lenses are pretty crummy anyways...my old H4 glass lenses were much better IHMO.
#10
You can also try jewelers polish, which they use for getting scratches out of watch crystals. The polish does not remove the entire scratch but polishes the edges of the scratch which is what makes it noticeable as it reflects light.
#12
I checked the receipt and the Headlight Lenses from <a href="http://www.vertexauto.com" target="_blank">www.vertexauto.com</a> were $74.00 each the part number is 99363190400 if anyone wanted to replace their old ones.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by GTR 993:
<strong>I checked the receipt and the Headlight Lenses ... part number is 99363190400 if anyone wanted to replace their old ones.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Thanks GTR, & to clarify: that's the pn for the right side lens, the left side lens pn is 993.631.903.00
<strong>I checked the receipt and the Headlight Lenses ... part number is 99363190400 if anyone wanted to replace their old ones.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Thanks GTR, & to clarify: that's the pn for the right side lens, the left side lens pn is 993.631.903.00
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I have been driving a week since coating the headlights with
clearcoat. There are no adverse effects from heat or diffusion of
the light beam. In fact they appear to be brighter and more coherent
as the surface fog haze is gone. This haze is the result of many tiny
rock chips microscopically distorting the glass surface., which causes
the light to diffuse in an omni-directional pattern. I also clear coated
the rock chipped fog lights as well.
(It's also a good idea to clean the inside glass following Robin's DIY.)
I used one coat of Krylon #1301 acrylic crystal clear, purchase from
an auto paint shop. I had to make a few attempts to get it right.
There are superior paint products available, although I really wanted to
use something simple. The unknown factor is the long term durability.
I can live with having to re-coat once a year.
clearcoat. There are no adverse effects from heat or diffusion of
the light beam. In fact they appear to be brighter and more coherent
as the surface fog haze is gone. This haze is the result of many tiny
rock chips microscopically distorting the glass surface., which causes
the light to diffuse in an omni-directional pattern. I also clear coated
the rock chipped fog lights as well.
(It's also a good idea to clean the inside glass following Robin's DIY.)
I used one coat of Krylon #1301 acrylic crystal clear, purchase from
an auto paint shop. I had to make a few attempts to get it right.
There are superior paint products available, although I really wanted to
use something simple. The unknown factor is the long term durability.
I can live with having to re-coat once a year.