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As outlined on another thread, since having my battery disconnected for several weeks my airbag light goes on and stays on while driving.
My T-ODB gives the airbag and a low voltage warning even though my battery checks out fine.
It was recommended that I unplug and clean the airbag module contacts.
Is the orange thing in the passenger foot well the airbag module?
How do I get to it? It seems to be buried behind a pretty solid mass of wires. Are those stock wires or something that a previous owner might have put in?
in my personal opinion ...If your airbag registered an error, this proves that the connections are fine, first, and that, the ones who recommended whatever, are windpipe heros ! SERIOUSLY
you need to clear the error , please
in my personal opinion ...If your airbag registered an error, this proves that the connections are fine, first, and that, the ones who recommended whatever, are windpipe heros ! SERIOUSLY
you need to clear the error , please
Not necessarily. If it registers an open, it'll throw the code. That's why you see it happen if you don't splice a resistor in on the steering wheel swaps. If the airbag controller doesn't see the correct resistance, it'll throw the error. Open, short, etc...
Not necessarily. If it registers an open, it'll throw the code. That's why you see it happen if you don't splice a resistor in on the steering wheel swaps. If the airbag controller doesn't see the correct resistance, it'll throw the error. Open, short, etc...
I do not agree , but that is just me
you splice a resistor on steering wheel swaps ?
You are not supposed to swap a steering wheel with battery connected.
Do I understand what you are saying ? or am I lost in translation , sorry
If the airbag controller doesn't see the correct resistance, it'll throw the error..
you realize in what you say that IF EVER WE IMAGINE THAT for an airbag controller to see the correct resistance (in your words).....the conectors to the airbag controller must be SAIN ????
would you recommend after this deduction for the OP, to clean the connectors ?
If so, I am lost maybe, but I am old surely
I do not agree , but that is just me
you splice a resistor on steering wheel swaps ?
You are not supposed to swap a steering wheel with battery connected.
Do I understand what you are saying ? or am I lost in translation , sorry
If the ignition is turned to the on position without an airbag or an appropriate resistor connected, it'll throw an airbag error. Yes, if you switch to a non-airbag equipped wheel without a resistor it'll show the airbag error.
Originally Posted by geolab
you realize in what you say that IF EVER WE IMAGINE THAT for an airbag controller to see the correct resistance (in your words).....the conectors to the airbag controller must be SAIN ????
would you recommend after this deduction for the OP, to clean the connectors ?
If so, I am lost maybe, but I am old surely
my best regards
I dont know what this means.
My suggestion is to check with a proper scan tool for the airbag error and troubleshoot from there.
Thanks all.
T-ODB scan tool showed airbag fault and low voltage error - neither of which could be cleared for more than a few seconds. Battery shows good voltage at rest (12.4v) and while engine running (13.1v)
Thanks. I'll check again next week. Battery was showing 12.45 volts after being totally disconnected for 24 hours.
Was showing I believe 13.15 volts when I ran it at normal 800 rpm idle last week.
Completely rebuilt alternator by a reputable shop, Lancaster Starter and Alternator.
When I ran t-odb last night it wouldn't connect to the airbag module but connected fine to motronic and HVAC though.
I'm going to take it for a long-ish, sporty ride next week and if it continues I'll put in a new battery.
Hi Bobby.
With the engine running, the voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.2 volts at the cigarette lighter socket. I use one of those inexpensive plug-in digital volt meters purchased from Amazon or eBay.
At 13.15 volts you are seeing suggests to me your battery is not getting adequately charged.
The static battery voltage is low too.
Once you replace the battery and if the running voltage is not at 13.5 or greater you have a loose alternator belt, a bad voltage regulator, or a bad alternator.
Rebuilt alternators can be bad out of the box.
If the running voltage is above 13.5V and you turn off the engine and let it sit for 3 or 4 minutes with the doors closed and the immobilizer active. if so equipped, one should see >12.6 volts and with a new fully charged battery >/= 12.8 volts.
Low voltage may be the root cause of your issue.
Andy
Thanks so much for circling back on this Andy.
The alternator was rebuilt by a shop with an excellent reputation for 911 alternators so I doubt that is the issue. Would something light up on the dash if the alternator didn't produce enough power? No dash lights related to the alternator though I've only gone on a couple of 20 minute rides since putting in the new alternator.
Belt slipping? Maybe. This was the first time I ever changed the belts but looked OK with the krikit tool - one of your recommendations from another thread I believe.
Out of town until the 15th and even though the battery is always on a tender I will get a new battery to see if anything changes. I believe the battery has a 6/2019 date code.
Will post up again when I have more data.