George A

Does anyone on the list have The Racers Group (TRG) sway bars? I have a set and am wondering how to get rid of the original collars with something smaller. I’ve had them for over two years now and am tired of having to tighten them down before every event. Also, I don’t like the way they fit in the front. They rub against the front carrier. Has anyone figured out a solution? I talked to my mechanic about welding some washers in the right spots, but he strongly recommended against welding anything to a sway bar.

I would really like to find a solution and would appreciate any help. I really like the fact that they are the thickest out there but I’m tired of doing all the work. I am on the verge of dumping them for a set of RS sway bars if I can’t find a solution.

George

Matt Vaughan

George, you're experiencing the exact same thing I did with my TRG bars. Hank I believe had the same issues with his as well. There was some mention of a "newer" version of their sway bars, so before going for the RS, why not try contacting The Racer's Group? They may have a solution for you that's acceptable. Otherwise, I can tell you there's no knocking with the RS bars.

Hank Cohn

George and Matt:

I did have the same problem. I was never able to completely resolve the issue; however, you can use four collars and mount them on either side of the front sub frame. This lengthens the time between tightening.

Hank

George A

Hank, what did you end up doing? BTW, do you guys agree with the statement that nothing should be welded to the sway bar?

George

Hank Cohn

George:

I ended up just living with the problem. Ultimately, I sold that car. I bought another set for my current car but have subsequently switched to the Porsche RS bars. The RS bars look positively tiny compared to the TRG bars, however, the car is just as fast at my home track, Road Atlanta. I thought about welding a washer to the bar myself, but was advised that heating the bar could reduce its ability to resist twist, so I didn’t try it. Porsche does make other bars that are larger than the RS bars for the 993. The front 993 Supercup bars are very close in size to the TRG front bar and it has the “washer” welded on already. I just measured both and the Suprecup bar is 24mm while the TRG bar is just slightly over 25mm.

Hope that helps a little.

Hank

George A

Thanks Matt and Hank,

Look like I might be going to the RS or Supercup sway bars.

George

Martin S.

Same story, although I tried the Performance Products bars that lacked the collars. Naturally they slid back and forth in the car as an effect of side loading the bars. I sold them off with full disclosure.

Maybe you are going down the wrong road...monster sway bars may be out. I have been told to install the proper springs for the useage the car is being exposed to. Then fine tune with sway bars.

The factory M030 RoW front bars are 22mm, the RoW Turbo rear bars are 21mm. You can drill an extra hole in the rear bar if you think you would like to stiffen the bar up a bit more, probably not necessary unless yoyu are driving an autocross and want to throttle steer the car a lot. The cost for this set up will be less than $400.

As Hank and others have added, if you want adjustable, install the 993RS bars, too bad they are $1,000 a set.

I had adjustable Charlie Bars on my SC...they were continually coming undone. Once I had full soft on one side of the car, and full stiff on the other...not good.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

[quote]Originally posted by George A:
<strong>Does anyone on the list have The Racers Group (TRG) sway bars? I have a set and am wondering how to get rid of the original collars with something smaller. I’ve had them for over two years now and am tired of having to tighten them down before every event. Also, I don’t like the way they fit in the front. They rub against the front carrier. Has anyone figured out a solution? I talked to my mechanic about welding some washers in the right spots, but he strongly recommended against welding anything to a sway bar.

I would really like to find a solution and would appreciate any help. I really like the fact that they are the thickest out there but I’m tired of doing all the work. I am on the verge of dumping them for a set of RS sway bars if I can’t find a solution.

George</strong><hr></blockquote>

Hi George:

You are not alone, as you can see, and there is no simple and quick fix.

Porsche welded on a small locating ring that prevents the side-to-side movement that all of the aftermarket swaybars make under load, during manufacture and before they were powder coated.

TRG & the others need to do the very same thing, if they are to be an acceptable and proper replacement.

We sell & use the Factory RS or GT-2 adjustable bars since they are just as quiet as OEM and require no on-going maintenance.

George A

Martin,

Thanks for the tip. I might give it a try. I actually have the coilovers, amongst other things, from TRG. I wanted to keep the all the suspension elements from the same maker to make sure they were matched properly. What I don’t want is too soft of a sway bar for my suspension.

At the time I did this, there was no PSS9 option.

George

kary993

I have TRG sway bars and do not seem to have the issue you refer to here. Have had them for about 1 year now. Can one of you describe in more detail the issue?

Thanks!

Robert Linton

Are the TRG anti roll bars hollow tubes or solid?

George A

First, Robert, they are solid bars.

Ok, now Kary, I have two problems with them. First, the locking collars that hold the bar in place tend to move out of place after some hard driving, like a DE. This makes the bar move back and forth and you hear this clanking sound. Second, the front collars rub against the subframe. Since the collars are so big, you can’t get them against the bushing and they rub the frame. Not a huge worry but I still don’t like it. Have you ever checked yours?

George

Robert Linton

If they are solid, what is the objection to welding a proper bushing stop as is found in factory anti roll bars? Alternatively, a locking color with set screws might be in order. Finally, would someone be kind enough to post a picture of the locking collar.

kary993

George,

Thanks for the detail. I have never heard any clanking and now that you have pointed specifically to the rubbing issue I will check more closely now that I know where to look.

I normally check the brakes and suspension components each time I change my wheels for track use. My shop has also marked each bolt with paint to make it easier to detect when someting has become loose.

I'll check it out...thanks again!

George A

Robert,

The problem is that the locking collar doesn’t stay locked in place. Once enough force is exerted on it, it tends to move slightly. Also, since the collar needs to be large enough to accommodate two set screws, it’s fairly large (larger diameter than the bushing). Hope that helps.

I’d take a picture of it for you but I have a bad knee right now and can’t slide under the car.

George