Rotor Backing Plates
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From: Medina, OH
Rotor Backing Plates
I was thinking of removing these for additional cooling at the track. Any thoughts?
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Present:
'25 718 Cayman GTS 4.0 Manual
'83 911 SC Coupe
Some Past:
'70 VW Beetle Cabriolet
'73 911 2.4S
'63 356B T6 Cabriolet
'59 356A Convertible D
'63 Alfa Romeo Giulia Spider
'82 Alfa Romeo GTV 2000
'89 944S2
'93 964 Cabriolet
'89 911 Cabriolet
'95 993 Carrera
'00 Boxster S
'97 993 Carrera RS Replica
'86 944 Turbo Race Car
'04 Cayenne S
'93 964 RS America Race Car
'94 964 C2 Cabriolet
'04 996 Cup
'07 997 GT3
'92 964 C2 Coupe
'88 BMW E30 M3
'15 Cayenne Diesel
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From: Houston, Tx
I took mine off, front & rear, before I read any advice against doing so. I rarely drive my car in the rain, which is (I believe) where the backing plates are supposed to help. I haven't noticed any downside.
Edit: I have less fluid boil at the track, but because I removing the backing plates while I was in the middle of installing nice new thick rotors, it's hard to say how much, if any, of the cooling improvement is due to better cooling.
I *can* say, however, that cleaning the inside of the wheels is less dangerous to my fingers now w/o the plates!
Edit: I have less fluid boil at the track, but because I removing the backing plates while I was in the middle of installing nice new thick rotors, it's hard to say how much, if any, of the cooling improvement is due to better cooling.
I *can* say, however, that cleaning the inside of the wheels is less dangerous to my fingers now w/o the plates!
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From: St. Louis
JF
I think common wisdom is:
On a race car or track only car they should be removed for better cooling.
On a street car, even w/some track events, they should stay on to keep water & debris off the rotors.
I'm sure there was a thread or 2 in the past, FYI.
I think common wisdom is:
On a race car or track only car they should be removed for better cooling.
On a street car, even w/some track events, they should stay on to keep water & debris off the rotors.
I'm sure there was a thread or 2 in the past, FYI.
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I took mine off early last year because they were corroded...i.e. rusty. No problems at all yet even here in rainy Vancouver. I do about 1-3 DE's per year. I would put new ones on but I am saving my pennies for a PSS-9 setup.
The plates are easy to remove but you have to pull the disks..which is not that hard except that you have to remove the calipers...which is not that hard except that you should slot the front shocks so you can take the calipers off without having to bleed the brakes...you get the drift!
The plates are easy to remove but you have to pull the disks..which is not that hard except that you have to remove the calipers...which is not that hard except that you should slot the front shocks so you can take the calipers off without having to bleed the brakes...you get the drift!
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From: Houston, Tx
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Tim Ashfield:
<strong>Robert
I know exactly wahat you mean about cleaning the wheels - ouch!
Are the backing plates easy to remove? I would imagine so, I just haven't bothered to look yet.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">What Mike said
. That's why I waited until I was changing rotors to bother w. the backing plates.
<strong>Robert
I know exactly wahat you mean about cleaning the wheels - ouch!
Are the backing plates easy to remove? I would imagine so, I just haven't bothered to look yet.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">What Mike said
. That's why I waited until I was changing rotors to bother w. the backing plates.
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From: Atlanta
The 993 cup cars that i have seen have sections of the backing plates cut out for cooling. They do however leave the sections inbetween the rotor and ball joints intact. My guess is that you should keep something inbetween the balljoint boot and the disc, so as to keep the boot from melting under long periods of substantial braking and to keep grease from squirting out onto the rotor in the case that a boot breaks.
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Haven't done it on the 993 and don't want to.
On an old Carrera, I removed them as part of a brake cooling duct kit. Dray track braking was improved (well, fluid didn't boil as fast) but DID experience some wet braking delay effects on the street during heavy rains.
On an old Carrera, I removed them as part of a brake cooling duct kit. Dray track braking was improved (well, fluid didn't boil as fast) but DID experience some wet braking delay effects on the street during heavy rains.
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From: Herefordshire
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Ray Calvo:
<strong>Haven't done it on the 993 and don't want to.
On an old Carrera, I removed them as part of a brake cooling duct kit. Dray track braking was improved (well, fluid didn't boil as fast) but DID experience some wet braking delay effects on the street during heavy rains.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">But Ray, was this with solid disks?? Drilling is for wet performance - rather than cooling... and not for ultimate swept area, ie one time stopping power ......
Cheers, Maurice
<strong>Haven't done it on the 993 and don't want to.
On an old Carrera, I removed them as part of a brake cooling duct kit. Dray track braking was improved (well, fluid didn't boil as fast) but DID experience some wet braking delay effects on the street during heavy rains.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">But Ray, was this with solid disks?? Drilling is for wet performance - rather than cooling... and not for ultimate swept area, ie one time stopping power ......
Cheers, Maurice
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From: So.CA
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"> Drilling is for wet performance - rather than cooling... </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">From what I remember reading, cross drilling (and slotting) is not for wet performance as much as it is for "gassing." That is, sustained, high-temp braking produces gases betweent the pad and rotor, impeding friction; allow the gases to vent and you get better braking. Again, this is just what I remember reading some time ago, but it makes sense considering it's the high-performance cars that get drilled/slotted rotors, not necessarily the cars in wet climates. 
Edward
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From: St. Louis
Maurice & Edward are both correct. Cross drilling or slotting does improve wet weather braking and also decreases fade by venting (de-gassing) the gases emitted from the pads that are otherwise trapped between pad & rotor. Plus, de-gassing also helps with cooling.
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From: USVI
The backing plates also do a really good job preventing gravel and other small rocks from lodging themselves between the brake caliper and rotor. You'll discover this the first time you drive on a gravel road or go slightly off course on the track.