1st and 2nd Gear down shift Effort
#16
That is correct, i have the Clutch to the floor while slowing down and it takes alot of effort to push into first and second gear. Almost like is fighting something. Nothing grinding though, just a hard push in as if i am fighting a linkage then pops in. If i come to a full stop and then engage 1st the shift is normal.
I think most of us do this sequence. you see a light ahead doing 40 MPH in 3rd gear. Clutch to floor, out of third, keep clutch depressed and as i slow to 10-15 mph in anticipation of the light to change you try to engage 1st or 2nd (still clutch down) and thats when i have an issue. I hope i am explaining this clearly.
I think most of us do this sequence. you see a light ahead doing 40 MPH in 3rd gear. Clutch to floor, out of third, keep clutch depressed and as i slow to 10-15 mph in anticipation of the light to change you try to engage 1st or 2nd (still clutch down) and thats when i have an issue. I hope i am explaining this clearly.
Bill Verburg gave a good explanation in a previous post about this subject:
”993 trans has a double cone synchromesh mechanism, The synchronizing ring and the friction ring rotate at the same speed as the guide sleeve and the shift sleeve. The speed is dependant on the the speed of the vehicle(drive pinion). The loose gearwheel w/ the clutch coupling and the conical ring rotate at engine speed. If during a gear change the shift sleeve is moved axially on the guide sleeve, a friction force is generated between the outside diameters of the synchronizing ring and the conical ring and at the inside diameters of the friction ring and the conical ring. This friction force either cause all parts which rotate at engine speed(1-2 shift) to decelerate or causes them to accelerate(2-1 shift). These surfaces are wear items. If fluid doesn't improve the friction situation then it needs a R&R.”
See: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...stopped-3.html
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got it , so shifting into first only when you are at a standstill. What is your view on deceleration? Leave in gear or put clutch pedal down and shift into neutral ?
#18
Rennlist Member
Suggest you not "coast" to a stop in neutral. Stay in gear until you come to a stop. Then go to neutral and let your clutch out! Do not sit anywhere with your clutch depressed. Depress the clutch only when you want to go into a gear. To do otherwise just places undue wear on the throw-out bearing. As for the current problem, if it hasn't been done recently, have your clutch slave cylinder bled.
#19
I would also look at your linkage. Take the 10000 nuts off the bottom tunnel plate and inspect all your bushings and guides. I'm betting you've got some worn parts.
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pp000830 (04-08-2021)
#20
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#21
Drifting
Obviously, gear shifts on a cold engine should be very tentative. It can take the tranny a good 30 mins to warm up on a cold day. Once warm and shifting smooth, I’ll practice my throttle blip on down shifts, including 2nd to 1st. Always feels good when you nail it.
in the aforementioned situations, pulling up to an intersection, I’ll downshift to 1st in the hope of pulling off a California stop.
these are very well built trannys and I don’t see why the synchros should wear particularly quickly when treated with respect and skilled operation.
Now, if you’re crashing the gears from cold start, YMMV
in the aforementioned situations, pulling up to an intersection, I’ll downshift to 1st in the hope of pulling off a California stop.
these are very well built trannys and I don’t see why the synchros should wear particularly quickly when treated with respect and skilled operation.
Now, if you’re crashing the gears from cold start, YMMV