Final suspension / steering bits - any thoughts?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Final suspension / steering bits - any thoughts?
I installed the PSS10s in my ‘97 Carrera 4 Cab and am very happy with the improvement. Now looking to replace the front and rear sway bars and tie rods.
I’m thinking I’ll put the Porsche 22mm front and 20mm rear sway bars in and the Elephant Racing bump steer tie rod kit to round things out. Looking to get sport suspension ride for spirited driving and touring, not worried about track. Also looking to make the steering feel more precise and dial out some of the understeer.
Any other recommendations? Or endorsements for this setup with PSS10s?
Thanks!
I’m thinking I’ll put the Porsche 22mm front and 20mm rear sway bars in and the Elephant Racing bump steer tie rod kit to round things out. Looking to get sport suspension ride for spirited driving and touring, not worried about track. Also looking to make the steering feel more precise and dial out some of the understeer.
Any other recommendations? Or endorsements for this setup with PSS10s?
Thanks!
#2
As far as the front goes, I also did solid inner tie rods, sport A-arm bushings, poly steering rack bushings, and strut tower brace. Made a world of difference in tightening up steering response and feel.
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mathfuzzy (07-04-2020)
#3
RL Community Team
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Hi JD,
Save some coin along the way:
Check your tie rods for play. If none and the rubber booties are rotten the boots can be replaced for a few dollars from Summit Racing. The replacement synthetic rubber ones will last the life of the part if not the car as most joints fail due to lack of lubrication from the original boots failing resulting in loss of lubricant and contamination. This also goes for stabilizer bar down-links and other suspension joints. If you don't separate the inner and outer tie rod ends to replace the grease boots you will preserve your alignment when you put it back together. :-)
Hope this helps,
Andy
Save some coin along the way:
Check your tie rods for play. If none and the rubber booties are rotten the boots can be replaced for a few dollars from Summit Racing. The replacement synthetic rubber ones will last the life of the part if not the car as most joints fail due to lack of lubrication from the original boots failing resulting in loss of lubricant and contamination. This also goes for stabilizer bar down-links and other suspension joints. If you don't separate the inner and outer tie rod ends to replace the grease boots you will preserve your alignment when you put it back together. :-)
Hope this helps,
Andy
Last edited by pp000830; 07-05-2020 at 04:29 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by pp000830:
HelpMeHelpU (07-05-2020),
mathfuzzy (07-04-2020)
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi JD,
Save some coin along the way:
Check your tie rods for play. If none and the rubber booties are rotten the boots can be replaced for a few dollars from Summit Racing. The replacement synthetic rubber ones will last the life of the part if not the car as most joints fail due to lack of lubrication from the original boots failing resulting in loss of lubricant and contamination. This also goes for stabilizer bar down-links and other suspension joints. If you don't separate the inner and outer tie rod ends to repace the grease boots you will preserve your alignment when you put it back together. :-)
Hope this helps,
Andy
Save some coin along the way:
Check your tie rods for play. If none and the rubber booties are rotten the boots can be replaced for a few dollars from Summit Racing. The replacement synthetic rubber ones will last the life of the part if not the car as most joints fail due to lack of lubrication from the original boots failing resulting in loss of lubricant and contamination. This also goes for stabilizer bar down-links and other suspension joints. If you don't separate the inner and outer tie rod ends to repace the grease boots you will preserve your alignment when you put it back together. :-)
Hope this helps,
Andy
#5
I upgraded to the 22mm M030 front bar and the 21mm ROW turbo rear bar to dial out understeer. Big difference, the car rotates with ease with mild throttle input. Last I checked the rear bars were all similarly priced so I'd opt for the 21mm, there's also enough meat in the bar ends to drill another hole for tuning if desired.
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mathfuzzy (07-04-2020)
#6
Rennlist Member
The Elephant bunk steer kit was a compromise solution when the RS wheel carriers (a/k/a GT2 Evo Uprights) were unavailable. They apparently jacked the prices up on the stock RS wheel carriers, so BBi’s Carriers are also in the ball park. Have a look at at Carnewal’s Bump Steer Conversion Package. But as Gert notes in the January 2020 update there was a 250% price increase. Also have a look at BBI’s Billet Uprights. I have them in both my 993 and 964. Very easy to work with. Mate either of these to some tie rods from Carey at ERP, and you won’t regret it!
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mathfuzzy (07-04-2020)
#7
Rennlist Member
+1 on the sport bushings, strut brace and poly steering mounts - made a big difference on my car.