jrmdir

Hi: It's been a while since I did this so please help with a quick question while I'm in the middle of this one. Somewhere I think I read we should disconnect this fitting (center of photo) and drain whatever comes out. But now after reviewing several on line videos and other DIY threads I can't find mention of it. Is it advisable, or not necessary or otherwise?

Thanks

Ron

IainM

You can if you want and you’ll get another 3/4 qt out. You can do the one on the other side too for another 1/2qt.
i don’t bother, I just change oil regularly

jrmdir

Thanks Ian - good advice and much appreciated. I pulled the one on the other side to get to the filter but may do this side as well. There had been slight seepage around the metal seal on the sump side so I'll try to tighten that up while apart.

Appreciate the fast answer!

Ron

geolab

unscrew and remove the oil filling cap , drains more oil psycologically

pp000830

Hi Jmrdir,
Removing the metal tubes from the side of the engine case can precipitate destroying them for no real benefit. I do not remove the tubes. Not sure the factory specifies removing both, just the one under the smaller oil filter. The oil filter can be removed without detaching the tube under it.
Here is the procedure I use to change the oil as the biggest issue is to not inadvertently overfill the oil:

Body Fluids, Oil Changes Oil Consumption Leaks & other stuff,

Andy

jrmdir

Thanks Andy!

In case this question comes up again, I would not recommend bothering with that left side tube. It was a pain to get a wrench in there and in the end very little oil came out. However in this case it was worth it for me because the adapter fitting was indeed not tight - thus the oil seepage I've been seeing.

As always, I appreciate all the good input.

Ron

bobbyp

I took that tube off at my first oil change and it was a pain to get off and kind of iffy getting it back on properly. Combined with the pitifully small amount of oil that came out I haven't touched it since.

Edward

Risk vs reward, like so many things one must weigh. Insignificant "reward" here. As others have already advised, why risk damage, a potential leak source, or even more time spent for no genuine gain is my thought. A whopping 12 quarts circulates throughout the entire system, and even with both filters swapped I end up getting ~9.5 fresh quarts in, so that tiny bit drained from the tube is, genuinely, an insignificant amount given the amount still sitting in the lines, cooler, engine.

Edward

Mike J

I have performed these oil changes for the last 15 year for a community of 993 owners, and always remove the oil feed tube that is at the bottom of the secondary oil filter. The reason is that its easy, gets more oil out, and makes removing that secondary filter even easier. If done right its not a risk, I have done literallly hundreds of oil changes over the years, and have never had an oil leak from removing the feed tube - and I never replace the O ring either. It's not a pressure line, the only pressure on it is from the head from the oil in the tank.

I do not pull the oil return line just because more stuff has to come out to get clearanance, but again, with the right tools, the risk is low - just make sure that one is not tightened too much, it does not need a lot of torque. (can't remember the torque off hand).

My advantage is that I have a 2 post lift and can stand under the car. That being said, when I used to be on the ground years ago doing these, I still removed the tube. On NA cars there is a tab on the tube where you can put som outward pressure on the tube, and with my other hand I provide twist by reaching in to hold that hose up into the comparment. The Turbo is harder, no pry point, but still remove the tube.

Does it matter? Likely not. Will I continue doing it this way.. You bet1

Cheers,

Mike

jrmdir

Once again - thanks for the great input. As to the left side line in my OP, tightening that union has not stopped my oil seeping, so I'm (trying to*) order a new crush washer to fix this properly.

I think this may be a dumb question but having just changed the oil I want to ask. When I get around to doing this can I drain just the engine sump without all the oil from the tank coming through as well? Or will I need to drain everything?

Thanks,

*I'm going to start a new post on this but there appears to be an error in PET on this part. Stay tuned. EDIT - never mind, PET is correct.

Ron

Mike J

You can remove the oil return line (assuming you mean the one off the sump on the left side of the car with the 32mm nut that goes across the engine and back to the tank) and you will lose some oil, but not too much, a quart or two. Draining the sump helps. I typically remove this line when doing a clutch job since I drop the transmission leaving the engine in the car.

If you remove the feed line on the right side of the car, you will drain the entire oil tank ,,,,, and that can be fun :-)

Is your leak between the fitting and case, or the fitting and the oil line? The only crush washer I seem to remember is between the fitting and the case - you can also put a light coat of sealant on the threads when replacing it, the torque and possible sealant recommendation I posted here from the shop manual.


Cheers,

Mike

TJ993

I like looking at driven cars

jrmdir

Thanks Mike - much appreciated. Yes, my leak is from that sealing washer. I ordered a new one but did not think about sealant so that is great info. Would not have expected they would use both sealant and a crush washer but I'm certainly going to do that.

EDIT - just looked up Loctite 270 - I assumed it was sealant product but it's actually red locking fluid. Now I get it - the washer does the sealing and the loctite is there so you can undo the flare nut with out needing a slim wrench to keep the union from backing out. This is what happened the first time I pulled that line off!

Ron