When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi all,
Does anyone have any experience with cleaning the engine compartment, with the engine in it. Can I pressure wash it without touching the engine?. How do I tape off the parts that shouldn't get wet?. Any advise would be helpful and much appreciated.
Mitch
But haven't read (m)any DIYs on how to get a spotless bay. One of the reasons I haven't is mainly because I don't know what chemicals to use that will remove grease & grime but won't harm wiring looms, sensitive sensors, ignition, fuel delivery and then how to dispose of all the $h!t that comes off.
I wouldn't pressure wash any engine bay, especially with the engine in place. Too many opportunities to force water in places it shouldn't go - the electrical connectors, for instance, which are made to be weatherproof but not to stop a direct spray. It'd probably also demolish an original sound pad.
With the engine out, I used a spray bottle of 30% Oil Eater and water, and another spray bottle with fresh water to rinse, with an occasional light, low pressure flush from the hose. This easily took care of the spilled oil and PS fluid that accumulated on the pax side, and the dust and dirt elsewhere. Toothbrushes, q-tips, and rags are your friends, as is time. It's a slow job. Replace the sound pad (a huge PITA but worth it) and the place should look pretty good.
There's not too much to dispose, although the runoff is oily. Minimize that by first cleaning as much as possible with paper towels.
The Oil Eater mix is safe - I used the same mixture to clean the engine and parts. The fan, for instance, was filthy and came out looking almost new.
I wouldn’t power wash or hose the 993 engine. I wipe by hand here and and there. Too many electrical parts. Now any modern day car like my Audi’s yes I spray degreaser then hose not power wash working from the back of the engine to the front.
Never pressure wash a 20-year-old engine bay containing 20-year-old connectors and components, or for that matter even a new 911 engine bay for the reasons listed above.
this makes more sense. Sounds like you need to drop the engine and deep clean to be able to get to a point where you can subsequently maintain with toothbrushes and rags
my problem is I have a hard enough time keeping the paint clean. Maybe I should drive it less?😱
this makes more sense. Sounds like you need to drop the engine and deep clean to be able to get to a point where you can subsequently maintain with toothbrushes and rags
my problem is I have a hard enough time keeping the paint clean. Maybe I should drive it less?😱
Oh no. Drive it more.
I'm both lazy and a slob, and would never pull an engine just for cleaning. I pulled the engine to take care of major maintenance items in preparation for driving the car a whole lot more. The cleaning was opportunistic. Mostly.
With fewer oil leaks I hope the engine bay will stay a little cleaner, and who knows - might even clean it again sometime.
Dropping the engine just to clean it is really overkill. You can do a very good job with the engine in. Here's how I do it, works for me, YMMV:
Get the engine warm to the touch, but not hot.
If you have the Motor Sport air filter cover, remove the air filter (don't forget to replace it when you're done).
Spray it down with your favorite cleaner. Mine is PS21 Total Car Wash. It's gentle but does a good job of cleaning, and it smells great.
Agitate any heavy accumulations of dirt/oil/grease with a brush, respray them if required.
Let it sit for a few minutes for the cleaner to do its thing.
Hose off gently with the garden hose, not a pressure washer. Avoid spraying directly into the alternator or on the electrical components--just a gentle mist will clean these off.
Blot off excess water.
Start the engine and let it idle until fully warmed up to finish drying.
Optional: After it cools down, I give my engine a finishing spray of 303 Protectant, avoiding the V-belts.
I cover the air box stack with foil and cover the distributors with foil the best I can to protect them from a direct shot of water. I then use Griot's Garage engine cleaner followed by a garden hose rinse.
I then use a blower made for car drying to blow the standing water off the motor and components and then wipe all the areas that can be reached with shop towels.
These cars are getting older and the seals on lots of the connectors are probably not as waterproof, especially under high pressure........if you are going to do it be careful and don't directly spray into anything electrical.........Cover whatever you can that you think will cause an issue...
I have done mine with a very light spray with a regular hose but focused on the body parts - inside side of the rear fenders, inside of engine cover, etc...
The great thing about rear engine is they stay pretty clean and if you wipe off as mentioned in previous posts during every wash you can keep it pretty clean....
Be aware the bottom face of the dual distributor has open drain/vent holes and some have found rust inside the distributors so keep well clear of the distributors when using a hose.
Porsche 911 GT3 Artisan Edition Pays Homage to Japanese Culture
Slideshow: Porsche has created a Japan-only 911 GT3 Artisan Edition that blends track-ready hardware with design cues inspired by traditional Japanese craftsmanship.
Porsche Reveals Coupe Variant of the Electric Cayenne With a Fresh Look
Slideshow: Porsche's latest electric Cayenne Coupe blends dramatic styling with supercar acceleration, turning the brand's midsize SUV into a 1,139-horsepower flagship.
Engine Bay
