Which bolts/nuts/washers should be replaced on a suspension refresh?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Which bolts/nuts/washers should be replaced on a suspension refresh?
I just ordered a PSS10 kit and will be replacing the bushings on the front wishbones and rear pivot points with Elephant sport bushings. Which bolts/nuts/washers should I replace if they all look ok?
The car has 47,000mi on it. Never been in an accident, never seen snow, driven in the rain four times, been on the track for DE 6 events.
The car has 47,000mi on it. Never been in an accident, never seen snow, driven in the rain four times, been on the track for DE 6 events.
#2
Replace the nuts as a matter of course. The bolts have been upgraded to 10.9 from 8.8. The later bolts are a slightly different design as are the indexing discs. I fitted the ER locking shims as well. Only torque up the supension bolts when set at ride height you can tear the rubber as well as preloading the suspension. Do not grease the indexing washers. mark everything up before you strip it then the geo won't be too far out but do get it checked.
#3
Rennlist Member
Hi Karl,
The factory manual has a recommended set of replacement vs reuse of bolts and nuts. In my blog I have a list that I got thanks to @ @Tlaloc75
After taking apart and reassembling my suspension a few times as I upgraded components along the way I noticed having new hardware made it easier to wrench on the suspension Removing the 20+ year old hardware for the first time which some were seized was not fun. Having a big @ss breaker bar helped.
Lastly, I highly recommend you get yourself a the Snap-on toque adapter socket for the control arm nuts and a nice torx socket set. That helps get your torque wrench into the tight spots between the multi-link control arms for to torque the nuts to spec.
Good luck. If you take your time and have the right tools the job goes smoothly.
The factory manual has a recommended set of replacement vs reuse of bolts and nuts. In my blog I have a list that I got thanks to @ @Tlaloc75
After taking apart and reassembling my suspension a few times as I upgraded components along the way I noticed having new hardware made it easier to wrench on the suspension Removing the 20+ year old hardware for the first time which some were seized was not fun. Having a big @ss breaker bar helped.
Lastly, I highly recommend you get yourself a the Snap-on toque adapter socket for the control arm nuts and a nice torx socket set. That helps get your torque wrench into the tight spots between the multi-link control arms for to torque the nuts to spec.
Good luck. If you take your time and have the right tools the job goes smoothly.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
In your blog do you mean your restomod thread entry #20: https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=20?
I see the utility of the torque adapters. Does that added length affect torque readings?
I see the utility of the torque adapters. Does that added length affect torque readings?
#5
Rennlist Member
It does slightly. I can't remember the formula, but it basically acts as a lever (depending on its position relative to the torque wrench) so you set the torque less on on the torque wrench to have equivalent torque applied on the nut if needed.
Overall, a good set of wrenches, sockets, ratchets and extensions go a long way to do the job easily on reassembly. I had to go to the snap-on guy multiple times to find the right tool to access some not so easily accessible nuts and bolts to get them torqued correctly.
Overall, a good set of wrenches, sockets, ratchets and extensions go a long way to do the job easily on reassembly. I had to go to the snap-on guy multiple times to find the right tool to access some not so easily accessible nuts and bolts to get them torqued correctly.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Here’s my full list. Major parts first, then all the necessary nuts and bolts with part numbers included. Hope this helps.
- tie rods with rsr style solid from tarret
- front ball joints from elephant
- front sport bushings from elephant
- front polyurethane steering rack bushings from eBay
- front sport droplinks from fvd
- front and rear swaybar bushings from fvd
- rear toe arm and camber arm all with sport bushings from elephant
- rear rs a-arm and kt arm from rennsport
- rear subframes with sport bushings from fvd
- Oem shock top mounts from fvd
- pss10 from from tirerack
Suspension nuts and bolts
- Upper Mount Gasket for front shocks.
- 993-341-511-01 x2
- The lock nuts that are used to secure the shock top hats both front and rear suspension. 16 nuts total.
- 900-380-005-01 x16
- Nuts and Bolts for front control arm
- 999-084-445-01 x2
- 900-082-118-01 x2
- 900-082-137-01 x2
- The lock nuts and bolts that are used to attach the front shock to the wheel carrier.
- 999-067-039-01 x2
- 999-072-006-01 x2
- 993-343-156-00 x2
- The lock nuts that attach rear suspension control arms to the wheel carrier. 8 nuts total.
- 900-380-010-01 x2 (A-arm)
- 999-084-449-09 x6 (Toe arm, Camber arm, KT arm)
- The lock nuts that attach control arms to the subframe. 10 nuts total.
- 999-084-445-01 x6 (A arm trailing, camber arm, toe arm)
- 900-380-012-01 x2 (A arm leading)
- 999-507-384-09 x2 (KT arm)
- The lock nuts that attach subframe to car
- 999-084-445-01 x8 (rear attachment points)
- 900-380-008-01 x4 (forward attachment points)
- The bolts that hold subframe onto car
- 999-072-003-09 x4 (through the bushings on each side)
- 900-378-021-01 x4 (small forward bolts)
- 900-378-061-01 x4 (50mm bottom 2 rear bolt positions)
- 900-378-052-09 x2 (80mm top rear bolts)
- 900-378-049-09 x2 (60mm second from top rear bolts)
- tie rods with rsr style solid from tarret
- front ball joints from elephant
- front sport bushings from elephant
- front polyurethane steering rack bushings from eBay
- front sport droplinks from fvd
- front and rear swaybar bushings from fvd
- rear toe arm and camber arm all with sport bushings from elephant
- rear rs a-arm and kt arm from rennsport
- rear subframes with sport bushings from fvd
- Oem shock top mounts from fvd
- pss10 from from tirerack
Suspension nuts and bolts
- Upper Mount Gasket for front shocks.
- 993-341-511-01 x2
- The lock nuts that are used to secure the shock top hats both front and rear suspension. 16 nuts total.
- 900-380-005-01 x16
- Nuts and Bolts for front control arm
- 999-084-445-01 x2
- 900-082-118-01 x2
- 900-082-137-01 x2
- The lock nuts and bolts that are used to attach the front shock to the wheel carrier.
- 999-067-039-01 x2
- 999-072-006-01 x2
- 993-343-156-00 x2
- The lock nuts that attach rear suspension control arms to the wheel carrier. 8 nuts total.
- 900-380-010-01 x2 (A-arm)
- 999-084-449-09 x6 (Toe arm, Camber arm, KT arm)
- The lock nuts that attach control arms to the subframe. 10 nuts total.
- 999-084-445-01 x6 (A arm trailing, camber arm, toe arm)
- 900-380-012-01 x2 (A arm leading)
- 999-507-384-09 x2 (KT arm)
- The lock nuts that attach subframe to car
- 999-084-445-01 x8 (rear attachment points)
- 900-380-008-01 x4 (forward attachment points)
- The bolts that hold subframe onto car
- 999-072-003-09 x4 (through the bushings on each side)
- 900-378-021-01 x4 (small forward bolts)
- 900-378-061-01 x4 (50mm bottom 2 rear bolt positions)
- 900-378-052-09 x2 (80mm top rear bolts)
- 900-378-049-09 x2 (60mm second from top rear bolts)
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
This is what you need for a complete rebuild. You can do less if you are positive that certain parts are in good shape. But my thinking was that if I’m going to take the time/money to do it, I want to do it all and start from a clean slate. The results were spectacular.
I’ve since added RS swaybars, which are a worthy upgrade IMO and have taken the suspension up one more significant notch.
I’ve since added RS swaybars, which are a worthy upgrade IMO and have taken the suspension up one more significant notch.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I already have the m030 sways. For the time being, they will have to do. They did significantly improve handling and reduced inside wheel spinning on corners.
#10
Three Wheelin'