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Engine drop help

 
Old 03-15-2019, 07:05 PM
  #1  
Fchotika
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Default Engine drop help

Hi folks,

in in the middle of my engine drop. Seems that the engine is snagged on the bolt in the center of the picture on the driver side inner corner. All the research I read didnít mention about removing this bolt- it seems to be attached to the subframe. Do I remove it or just reposition slightly to get it unsnaggged?

Thank you!


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Old 03-15-2019, 11:26 PM
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swmic

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Can you just take a pry-bar and simply push the motor a little forward or backward so it clears this?
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:14 AM
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mpruden
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Going from memory, but I agree with swmic. I seem to recall it takes some "massaging", especially around the starter, axles, etc.
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Old 03-16-2019, 01:53 PM
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Fchotika
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Thanks for the advice. Yes I massaged with another jack to position the engine and took out the bolt too. Final success! First engine drop ✌️
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Old 03-16-2019, 02:00 PM
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Congrats. Looking good.
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Old 03-16-2019, 05:21 PM
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Bet the beer after that tasted pretty damn good
nice job!
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:46 PM
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Fchotika
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😋

Thank you!
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:27 PM
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Success! Well done, sir.
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Old 03-17-2019, 02:33 AM
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Fchotika
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Thanks!

So plan to replace my slipping clutch @58k mi with an RS LFW and clutch. Spotted leaks on the valve and timing chain covers:

my work list:
- RS LFW and clutch kit
- new slave cylinder and hose and bleed
- new engine pad (yes, found a mouse home, and an actual mouse - yuck - he must have had the same air-cooled addiction)
- new gaskets and bolts for valve and chain covers
- all belts
- spark plug wires, new plugs, distributor caps and rotors
- RS engine mounts
- FD SSK
- oil and transmission change
- fuel filter change - so easy now with the engine out

any thing else I should do while the engine is out?

thinking of replacing the oil lever sensor as the needle hasnít moved as well. Not sure if itís worthwhile to replace though...

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Old 03-17-2019, 08:49 AM
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skl2
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That's pretty much exactly what I did. Few things to add: SAI, fuel filter, and distributor rebuild. Also might as well do any and all sensors and senders.
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:15 AM
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ed devinney
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I just did similar this winter. In addition to yours and ski's items:
  • varioram flapper valve seal (for which I have a spare, lemme know if you need), and clean up the oil inside the intake - I took mine apart.
  • Varioram vacuum actuators
  • O2 sensors
  • Hydraulic lifters
  • PS belt
  • Clean idle air valve, MAF, crud in intake ports
  • Check the CV boots, good time to fix if needed
  • Order up new hardware for the entire exhaust system - some will break, all are rusty.
  • Good time to replace any heat shields that might be rusty, they're still available and not too $$
  • If you have a good local alternator shop, have it at least tested and if needed rebuilt while it's out. Cost me under $200 for bearings and regulator. Consider fan bearing at this time.
  • Same with starter. Mine needed a new and unavailable Bendix, but new Bosch starter was $250 on Amazon.
  • Consider deleting the clutch vent tube
  • Consider having the injectors cleaned. Mine were down 15% in flow and varied a lot between them.
Two tips:
  • Be careful with the chain tensioners, they have a proper orientation. Get one wrong and the engine knocks like a bad rod until you reverse the offending tensioner, and you have to redo both to be sure!
  • To punch the sound pad holes, line it up carefully and use a hot soldering iron to go through the material. You'll sacrifice the iron tip but the result is worth it.

Last edited by ed devinney; 03-17-2019 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 03-17-2019, 12:39 PM
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mpit
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Its great that you can do that by yourself. Good luck with the finished product. You have quit the laundry list!

If you had to pay the labor what would you guess the total cost of this repair would be;7 to 10K?? more?

I had a clutch put in my 89 about 7 years ago and they di extras as well and it was around $4,500.
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Old 03-17-2019, 12:49 PM
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Oil level sensor may just need bending of the float to get it in range when correct oil level reads on dipstick

id go through all the sensors and clean the contacts with pencil eraser and contact cleaner and then seal connectors with dielectric grease. Should be good for another 20 years!
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Old 03-17-2019, 01:03 PM
  #14  
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A major project inevitably runs into the unexpected. Builds character and resolve. You deserve a ....especially to those who can do it single-handily and on jack stands.
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Old 03-17-2019, 05:22 PM
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Fchotika
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Hi Ed - the varioram flapper valve - is that the center actuator under the intake manifold? Look likes I have a lot of oil residue and crud there. New seal will fix it? What’s the benefit of the clutch vent tube delete? Easier access to the plugs? Thanks for the tips!

mPit, Henry. Thank u. it actually wasn’t difficult. Normal tools, great advice on this board. I was doing lot a lot research for a while and gradually accumulated the recommended tools. Found my self moving up engine jack, lowering the body, then vice a versa a bit to get the right drop.

Iain - thanks. I’ll take a look to see if the float is bent in anyway. The levle gauge was always on the lowest level ever since I had the car and never moved. The Bentley manual recommends testing the resistance to see if the sensor is defective.

thanks again for the advice. I think installation will be interesting to be able to line everything up for the install.
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