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I have the elephant solid subframes and they provide machined spacers that you can use to raise or lower the bushings depending on how low you want it.
I'm not sure how you could install the spacer at the top as the bushing wouldn't fit into the frame. I believe the spacer is there so the original hardware will fit with the 10mm reduced stack height.
I am in a similar boat. Currently have pss10. I am planning to refresh the rest of the suspension including solid subframe mounts and RS wheel carriers. I bought the Rennline solid subframe mounts thinking they would lower the rear 10mm. Maybe we could work something out as I want to run a low ride height.
Here are before and after pictures... You can see those black aluminum spacers between the bushings and the unibody. on the topside of the bushings. Notice how the entire rear subframe is less tucked in the engine bay by the thickness of the spacer.
Here is a pic with it flipped and spacer on the underside of the bushings so the rear subframe is closer to the engine bay.
Wouldn't there be a reduced clamping surface if the spacer is used to clamp against the frame as opposed to the top of the bushing. Seems like the subframe would be unstable if you place the spacer at the top.
I don't have a picture of it but on the surface of the unibody there is a steel threaded spacer welded to the unibody that is the same diameter as the diameter of those black aluminum ones provided by elephant so from a mating surface point of view should not differ.
When I first assembled the subframe I assembled it with the spacer on the topside as I didn't bother to read their instructions. I consulted Elephant they said to flip it on the underside. I was checking with my old notes and I was actually not entirely correct above. The spacers they provide are 17mm in thickness and why they recommend you put it on the underside. I had considered machining 10mm spacers, but I didn't want to waste anymore time as at that time so I buttoned up the car with the original specification. As a consequence of this setup is that you do lower the back part of the car and increase negative rake/reduce positive rake depending on how your car is setup, which everyone has commented on with these solid subframe bushings.
I just went to the garage and measured the ride height. It is ~117mm R and ~127mm F. From a ride height point of view, I have no issues with scraping as long as you recognize you are driving a lowered car and you approach driveway ramps at an angle and parking spot concrete stops will destroy your splitters if you are careless.
One thing that is an issue with these solid subframe bushings at RS height of ~110mm R height is that you can't get a low profile floor jack under the engine jack point with a hockey puck without being on ramps. I had to raise my car to ~120 mm R so I could work on the car without the hassle of driving on ramps to jack the car as I don't have a lift.
BTW... @Tlaloc75 showed me a great hack with a big lag bolt, washer, and some nuts to make an easy way to measure your ride height accurately.
Below is what I Ordered from Rennline, Looking at Coilver set pricing still.
Rennline Monoball Set
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HD Front Control Arm Bushing Set
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Rear Toe, Camber, and Kinematic Control
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993 Rear Adjustable Drop Links
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Front Droplink Set
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H&R Sport Sway Bar - Front
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H&R Sport Sway Bar - Rear
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Front Tie Rod w/Bump Steer
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993 Steering Reinforcement
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993 RSR-Style Inner Tie Rod
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Rennline Rear Subframe Bolt Kit
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Rennline Solid Rear Subframe Kit and Ti
might be too late, but I'll throw this out there anyway.
rennline doesn't post the size, but I am guessing the h&r sport sway bars are 26mm front and 24mm rear?
if so, first, the front bar will be difficult to install because of the vacuum assisted brakes, possible but difficult.
to make things easier, install the front bar first, before the wheel carriers are in place.
second, if they are 26/24 that is just too big.
since you are looking at coilovers you will eventually be making a spring rate choice.
it would be better to choose stiffer springs and smaller sways.
rather than 514/686 springs and H&R bars, use 750/900 springs and rs bars.
the problem is bars larger than rs will lift the front inside wheel reducing corner grip.
set up the car with springs, then tune it with sway bars. the rs 23 front 20 rear are more then enough for tuning.
it isn't wrong, as above, lots of people use bigger bars, especially for heavier cars or street suspension used on track.
but once you can choose track based struts and stiffer springs the larger bars aren't needed.
12-14-2018, 12:02 PM
