ftlaud911

So I decided to switch out the actuators. Did four actuators in the engine bay. The one under intake manifold was a bitch to do. Also pulled out the CCU and the fifth one worked, but hinge was broken. Talk about a tight fit. Zip tied the hinge for now until I can come up with a solution or buy a new unit. Anyone have a DIY for the flap AC actuator?

End result - wow!! Car feels like it has more throttle response. Additionally around 5k there is a noticeable change in sound even with Fister III's. It gets even louder now. Definitely an increase in power. Before around 5k rpm the car felt flat and didnt feel like it was making power till redline. Now it pulls all the way to redline and has a kick at 5k. Very happy!! Driven for a year and a few months and didn't know what I was missing. Always thought it felt sluggish though. Just wanted to thank everyone for the prior threads to help me DIY.

ToreB

The zip tie fix for the missing elbow plug in the resirc flap mechanism works great, I've done this several times. In my opinion, there's no need for trying to source a new plastic plug.
Cheers,
Tore

pp000830

Did the same things and had the same outcome. If you speak of the vacuum actuator behind the CCU, I did the same fix as you and it has proved reliable. The metal can cabin air recirculation actuator seems to be very robust and is probably functioning properly. It can be tested by attaching a small length of hose to it and drawing a vacuum by mouth and see if it holds in the actuated position under a static vacuum ( with your tongue sealing the hose end.)
The other new replacement actuators seem to have silicone rubber diaphragms now and should last the life of the car, unlike the old rubber ones.

Great to see you had a satisfying DIY experience.
Andy

911F1

Do you have a 96+ varioram car? I can see that making a big difference if they aren't working properly

Detoxx

Where did you purchase the actuators and did you follow any instructions on how to change the one under the manifold and/or have any advise

TIA

pp000830

I used a stubby screwdriver tip inserted in the end of a small box end ratchet wrench on the mounting screws.
I also attached a little machine wire to the wrench and used some thin sheet metal to make a small wedge to bind the screwdriver bit to the wrench both actions with the goal to not drop the bit or the entire tool behind the engine.
Takes patience but eventually, the old one can be removed and a new one put in its place without disturbing the Varioram manifold.
Andy

Detoxx

Muchas gracias

Meenrod

I have a 96 Varioram- is this a recommended maintenance item? Could you point me in the direction of a DIY guide anywhere please? Thank you.

pp000830

Replies above,
Andy

Meenrod

Thank you Andy