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5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T Racing Oil, synthetic = 112,464 psi
This Motorcycle Road Racing oil is from France and comes in liter bottles (slightly more than a quart). At the time this oil was tested in spring 2014, it cost $24.25 per bottle. And with the shipping cost added to that, the final cost was about $33.00 per bottle (shipping was all inside the U.S.), making it THE most expensive motor oil I’ve ever tested.
zinc = 1724 ppm
phosphorus = 1547 ppm
moly = 481 ppm
calcium = 3141 ppm
TBN = 7.4
This oil contains sufficient amounts of the components required (detergent, acid neutralizer, etc) for normal change intervals in street driven vehicles. But, it has way too much zinc/phos for use in cat equipped vehicles. However, it is well suited for Race Cars, Street Hotrods and Classic cars.
There is such a thing as having too high of a ZDDP content, and this looks like one example...
Under real racing environments, where motors get refreshed regularly, this is not a problem; but for everyday use, probably not the best selection.
High ZDDP's also clogs catalytic converters.
Anyone interested in this topic, may want to read this thread; especially those by Mr. Bill Verburg...
5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T Racing Oil, synthetic = 112,464 psi
This Motorcycle Road Racing oil is from France and comes in liter bottles (slightly more than a quart). At the time this oil was tested in spring 2014, it cost $24.25 per bottle. And with the shipping cost added to that, the final cost was about $33.00 per bottle (shipping was all inside the U.S.), making it THE most expensive motor oil I’ve ever tested.
zinc = 1724 ppm
phosphorus = 1547 ppm
moly = 481 ppm
calcium = 3141 ppm
TBN = 7.4
This oil contains sufficient amounts of the components required (detergent, acid neutralizer, etc) for normal change intervals in street driven vehicles. But, it has way too much zinc/phos for use in cat equipped vehicles. However, it is well suited for Race Cars, Street Hotrods and Classic cars.
Keep in mind this is a motorcycle specific product and the nature of the formulation is much different than the automotive version- mostly since the gearbox and clutch use the same oil in some motorcycles.
I'm working on getting the info you all are seeking. I'll keep you all posted.- Nick
So 300V is what you recommed for 993?
What oil drain inteval do you recommend?
Originally Posted by Motul
Unfortunately, we cannot give out such data. What I can say these oils are both "Full SAPS" products. Meaning, they both have very high concentrations of metallic additives (anti-wear additives in most cases) that will give your engine a very high level of protection.
The 300V EsterCore formula is unique in many ways, one of those ways is a Group 5 ester that has higher anti wear protection vs common synthetics. So with the combination of that specialized base oil and high concentration of metallic additives, the 300V will enable your engine to make the most power without sacrificing reliability.
So 300V is what you recommed for 993?
What oil drain inteval do you recommend?
Hello,
The 300V Competition 15W50 is an excellent choice and is a great oil for the air-cooled 911's. We've had a lot of reports from the air-cooled community of much lower oil temps running this product. The ODI will be based on what the application is, for street driving we typically start at 5,000 miles on 300V and work our way up once a UOA can be done. Keep in mind this is a motorsport product so we tend to stay conservative on the drain mileage recommendations. If you track your car with a mix of street driving, sticking to 3,000 miles will be a good start and once again, get a UOA done to see how far you can start going with your oil changes. This product will have all the necessary additives as a street oil- detergents, antioxidants, dispersents etc.
Another option is the 4100 Power 15W50- more of a high performance street oil, a lot less money yet has a high ceiling in terms of performance. It won't have the exotic ester base oils or the heavy friction modified ad pack of the 300V but it will have a heavy dose of ZDDP as this is an API SL Full SAPS product. It will perform nicely in any 993 application. Being this is a high performance service product, it has been formulated and tested to go the distance per the OEM recommendation for normal driving.- Nick
I wouldnt take this request for full oil assay data lightly with this audience. The risk profile is different here. Anyone that loses and engine due to inappropriate oil selection is on the hook for a new engine. I strongly doubt that Motul would come to the rescue if I experienced engine loss due to using their oil. The best decision I can make to protect myself from this type of loss is to inform myself with data. If Motul doesnt provide data, the decision becomes easy.
So far all Motul has provided are qualitative statements like "great oil for air-cooled 911s". Call me faithless (because I am), but without data, I dont believe your claims.
I wouldnt take this request for full oil assay data lightly with this audience. The risk profile is different here. Anyone that loses and engine due to inappropriate oil selection is on the hook for a new engine. I strongly doubt that Motul would come to the rescue if I experienced engine loss due to using their oil. The best decision I can make to protect myself from this type of loss is to inform myself with data. If Motul doesnt provide data, the decision becomes easy.
So far all Motul has provided are qualitative statements like "great oil for air-cooled 911s". Call me faithless (because I am), but without data, I dont believe your claims.
Hello,
We appreciate the advice and insight. I am working on getting the transparency you and others need to consider Motul as your oil of choice. This is the first crack at forums for us so we will learn and improve on what is needed from the Porsche community as our interactions continue. Thanks in advance for your patience and understanding- Nick
Don't want get into an oil debate however. My car has almost exclusively used Motul 300v 15w50 since the engine had 10,000 km on the clock. THere was one instance I put Redline in the car, it was only in for less than 300km's, I did a track day with the Redline and noticed 10 degree C higher temps on a similar weather day with the redline over the Motul (data was from my ecu data logging).
Additionally, When I tore down the engine at approx 100,000 km, the wear surfaces on the cams and crank shaft were perfect. Inside the case had zero deposits what so ever. When I sent the case to Ollies for machining, they remarked how clean the inside of the case was, thinking it only had 20,000km on it, at that stage I had done nothing to the case except for box it up and sent it to them. Now would this be the same with other oil, maybe, maybe not. I have split engines that has used other oils and I cannot say I have seen the same cleanliness nor near perfect cams and crank surfaces.
I have had a great experience with Motul, I would not put anything else on my engine.
I'm a huge fan of 300V and use it in my own 911 as well as my daily driver. Its not for the faint-of-wallet, however there is nothing better that you can buy.
We use & recommend 8100 Xcess for the water-boilers.
Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
I'm a huge fan of 300V and use it in my own 911 as well as my daily driver. Its not for the faint-of-wallet, however there is nothing better that you can buy.
We use & recommend 8100 Xcess for the water-boilers.
Steve,
Do you know anything about Motuls Power 4100 15w-50 oil suitability for our cars?
Do you know anything about Motuls Power 4100 15w-50 oil suitability for our cars?
Good question,...I've never used that particular product as we use Brad-Penn Racing in the majority of the air-cooled cars.
Motul makes excellent products so I would not have any reservations about it, provided the chemistry is correct for the 993 & older cars. I do prefer an API-SG/SH for the air-cooled, however there are lots of other factors that play a big role in the choice of oil.
