Correct, 3k - 4k RPM is my standard, and gentle on the throttle. They are not extremely fragile cars. Just drive like a normal person until the temp is out of the blue zone.
I have a 992.2 GTS and weather is around 1-2 Celsius.
I let it idle for 20 seconds and drive away keeping RPM under 2k, but it takes 10-15 minutes to get to 80 Celsius oil temp.
Is there any way to warmup the engine faster? I am still in the break in period.
Could you do me a favour please?
Similar temperatures here in the UK right now and I just switched from a 992.1 GTS to a 992.2 GTS.
I have immediately realised that when cold starting the 992.2 smoke only comes out of the left hand side pipe. Dealership told me it’s related to the new hybrid system.
Could you have a look the next time you cold start if yours does the same and report back? Many thanks!
I have immediately realised that when cold starting the 992.2 smoke only comes out of the left hand side pipe. Dealership told me it’s related to the new hybrid system.
Could you have a look the next time you cold start if yours does the same and report back? Many thanks!
Recently I noticed that my 992.2 S had smoke (steam?) coming out of the right pipe only during a cold start. (USA location)
I have a 992.2 GTS and weather is around 1-2 Celsius.
I let it idle for 20 seconds and drive away keeping RPM under 2k, but it takes 10-15 minutes to get to 80 Celsius oil temp.
Is there any way to warmup the engine faster? I am still in the break in period.
That is normal. I just let it sit for 1 min before I drive off and make sure to keep the RPM under 4500. Then after 5 mins of driving I will drive it no more than 6000 RPM and the car will warm up pretty quickly after that.
@ashraf997 , this s a good question. I’ve wondered about this myself.
My interest/concern stems from the cylinder bore scoring that occurs on the earlier model 911s. Our 992s are theoretically immune to this, but Boxer engines do see more wear on the bottom edge of the cylinders, simply because the cylinders lie on their sides, unlike V or I style engines.
So, whatever we can do to minimize unnecessary wear during startup would be prudent. Our cars are still new, and we don’t know if any surprises will appear as the 992 platform ages.
Porsche has used various technologies over the years to prevent the cylinders from prematurely wearing out…
Nikasil: pre ~1997
Porsche used Nikasil on older 911s. This was an extremely tough coating but is expensive.
Lokasil: ~1997 -- ~2008
Porsche moved to the cheaper Lokasil coating. These are the cars where you will see cylinder bore scoring.
Alusil: ~2008 -- ~2016??
Porsche introduced Alusil which seems to have mitigated the problem.
SUMEbore: ~2016 -- ~2018
SUMEbore is a very durable plasma sprayed iron coating.
Nikasil: ~2018 -- present
I believe Porsche has reverted to using Nikasil to coat our 992 cylinder bores. (Can anyone confirm?)
Despite all of these different technologies, the non-Nikasil coatings are still a concern (especially the Lokasil).
(Experts, please correct me on the above info. I may be wrong on some of these, or have gotten the dates wrong).
@barcoder , @d-- , good to hear that we can go up to 3-4k when the engine is cold. When I leave my hose on the morning, I need to turn onto the main road, where there are small opportunistic gaps between cars, so I always need to squeeze in and throttle up match the speed of the other vehicles.
@81romeo , I’ve found with my previous 911 and other sports cars I’ve owned, the exhaust always favors one set of tailpipes, especially at low RPMs. Typically one set of chrome exhausts will become more sooty than the other because of this. I’ve gotten so used to it, I didn’t even bother to check my 992 exhaust.
@peterm , what blue icon? Do you have a 992.2 with the digital dash, or am I missing something on my 992.1? Also, most people say to not wait for the cold-start feature to settle down. Just start the engine and drive off, to help circulate the oil faster (which is more important than having warmer oil). Our cars use a lower viscosity oil for this reason.
@MartinHines , would be nice, but I would be worried about the humidity! Seriously though, I remember you could get an “engine warmer” in the old days. I think it was just an electrical cable that you clamped onto the metal engine block, and the current would heat up your block (just enough to keep it above freezing).
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Does anyone remember those electrical engine block heating devices? Are they still available?
