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My 718 (982) Spyder's battery was almost completely dead after sitting for a few months in the garage with a Porsche trickle charger attached to the cigarette plug... I attempted Porsche's recommended "jumper" to the car's fuse panel method, but it didn't work, even after almost 6 hours of charging the car this way. The battery in my Spyder had less than 20% charge remaining, or about 2 volts. Apparently, there needs to be greater than 2 volts of main battery voltage remaining in order to "wake up" the battery when an external 12vdc power supply is applied to the jumper terminal in the car's fuse panel.
Fortunately, I was able to use an OBD II "memory saver" to provide the necessary dc power to the frunk solenoid (see the attached photo of the OBD II memory saver I used). These memory savers are normally used to keep a vehicle's computer memory powered when the main battery is disconnected for maintenance.
When I connected the OBD II "memory saver" to Spyder's OBD II port (located above the fuse box), and applied 12vdc of external power to it, the car's entire electrical system immediately powered up. I then pressed the "frunk" release button and the solenoid operated normally. I was then able to charge my Spyder's battery.
My take on the 982 Spyder/GT4 "frunk" release system. I find it bizarre that there's not a "tried and true", effective, reliable, cable-operated, frunk release system designed in these cars to access a dead battery. I know and work with several German engineers, and none of them would design an irrational system like this where battery power is required to access a dead battery. This harebrained frunk release design must have been concocted by a committee of Volkswagen AG's corporate bean counters, who then contracted the production of their design out to the lowest third-world bidder.
I'm certain that this OBD II "memory saver" jumper system will work for anyone facing a similar situation as mine.
GT3's have Rear Wheel Steering which means it also has the Li-Po battery. Most likely his battery is fine, it has gone into Deep Sleep mode.
1) Pull the Fuse Box Cover. Pull out the trunk fuse, its designed to do this (in the owner's manual). Then attach a 12v source to that fuse clamping on either side of it, grounding to the door hinge as Master Deep says. It's going to look like the red fuse in this (997) photo and may be in a different spot, but similar. See the hot leads on each side? Clamp there. Your trunk will now open with the switch.
2) Now you need a booster to "wake up" the battery. If you don't have one, this will more than do the job off Amazon and it will also power that fuse circuit to open the trunk....
3) Hook it up to the battery and then when ready, press the red exclamation point switch. Upon pressing the switch you will immediately hear the car come to life and it will start right up. Then, carry the booster pack in the car and you can always get yourself out of a jam.
Charging the vehicle with the Porsche supplied charger is a whole different topic and they don't work that well through the 12v plug in, its hit or miss. But the above will get the car going. If the battery is truly dead and does not wake up, its several months before replacements are available.
My 992 GT3 is dead after winter storage. I shouldn't have used the Porsche battery tender via the 12V socket...
I tried these steps with a NOCO GB40 and it did not work. Do I need the GB70?
I've done that using a battery pack to make the trickle charger wake up. It works on AGM batteries, the lithium not so much as the latter cannot be that easily woke up if the connector dropped.
Buying the CTEK Comfort Connect "Indicator" piglet allows you to get the plug all the way up to where the plastic cowling is at the base of the passenger windshield.
Comes with M6 size eyelets (perfect for the bolt on the positive post of my Lithium-Ion battery and the bolt that I use on top of the strut tower for the ground) 19.5" long is perfect.
The other CTEK piglets are only about 11.5" and just not long enough to get up to the window/cowling. They dont come with any "indicator" LED's on the plug like this one either.
In this way, you can have easy access to the hardwire plug and have your hood closed too.
Also comes with a fuse.
CTEK Part #: (56-629)
Amazon: $12.67
Then, I run the CTEK Comfort Connect (extension) cable to my CTEK charger that is located on my garage wall.
If you dont put your charger on the wall you can place it alongside the passenger side of the car and the cable from the charger should be long enough to reach the plug at the bottom of the window. No need for the Comfort Connect (extension) cable. But I like having the charger up on the wall where I can easily see it, so I use the (extension) cable.
Last edited by Diablo Dude; 04-04-2023 at 01:37 PM.
My 992 GT3 is dead after winter storage. I shouldn't have used the Porsche battery tender via the 12V socket...
I tried these steps with a NOCO GB40 and it did not work. Do I need the GB70?
YOu don't need a NOCO GB70... I'm answering your question but don't want to take the thread off topic, also bear with me I'm not trying to bash NOCO, though they are built very well, they offer very small Lithium battery packs inside their Jump Starters, so if you not getting a good reset, then it might not have the power.... I'm just saying IF you choose to go with a better Jump Pack you might want to do a little research on the facts about the size of the Lithium Battery pack inside and the feature set the Jump Starter offers. Yes, NOCO is the Amazon best selling Jump Starter, but there is a lot of marketing and not quite much substance behind that.
A brief overview is that the top brands all use quality Lithium Batteries inside, and all generate the same power for the same size battery... So if you have batteries of the same power, but another model give you a bigger battery inside then you are going to have a more powerful Jump Starter. And the way to determine the ACTUAL size of the battery you get inside your Jump Starter is to simple look at the Watt Hours Rating (or Milliamp Hours) of the Jump STarter you are looking to Purchase. Yes we all know NOCO claim massive cranking amps on their advertising, but the fact is they offer much smaller batteries inside compared to some of their competitors...(cough, cough Antigravity Batteries MICRO-STARTs).
So to put this in perspetive a NOCO GB70 is a physically big Jump Starter at 8.8" x 6" x 2.8" inches...and it weighs 4 lbs. So the volume of that size is 147 sq. inches. That won't fit into any Glove Box easy and the Clamps are permanantly attached, so you can't remove them to make it easier to carry. So now as for the size of the Battery the put inside the GB 70... Its a 40 Watt Hour Battery, which sis about a 12,000 milliamp Hour Battery inside. THat is a very small Battery for such a large unit.
The Antigravity XP-20 is 9.4" x 4" x 1.93" with a volume of 73 sq inches. So fully half the size of the NOCO, yet had a 74 Wh Battery inside which is 45% larger more powerful battery inside. So way smaller yet almost twice the Power and Capacity. But it is $30 dollar more in cost than the NOCO, (but it on sale). But it also has a digital screen, shows wattage coming in or going out, and then has incredible Type C PD100w charging which can charge modern Apple and Window laptops and much more faster than most regular chargers. Also our unit fully recharges in a HOUR, which is the fastest in Class.
So no you don't need a NOCO GB 70 really but you might need something to make sure you get a good jumper that can zap the battery awake while under the load of the computer system... which most Jump Starters should do.
As other say, you want to charge directly to the battery and bypass all the boloney Cig Lighter port charging that Porsche offers. As good as we all like to think Porsche engineers are, they really do miss alot of the basics in terms of normal functional charging of a Vehicle Battery . This is something that should not even be regulated by the Car's system, and they have made their system overly complicated and created so many issues that they get Customer going to service departements when they should not have to be.
Last edited by Antigravity; 04-04-2023 at 04:09 PM.
Buying the CTEK Comfort Connect "Indicator" piglet allows you to get the plug all the way up to where the plastic cowling is at the base of the passenger windshield.
Comes with M6 size eyelets (perfect for the bolt on the positive post of my Lithium-Ion battery and the bolt that I use on top of the strut tower for the ground) 19.5" long is perfect.
The other CTEK piglets are only about 11.5" and just not long enough to get up to the window/cowling. They dont come with any "indicator" LED's on the plug like this one either.
In this way, you can have easy access to the hardwire plug and have your hood closed too.
Also comes with a fuse.
CTEK Part #: (56-629)
Amazon: $12.67
Then, I run the CTEK Comfort Connect (extension) cable to my CTEK charger that is located on my garage wall.
If you dont put your charger on the wall you can place it alongside the passenger side of the car and the cable from the charger should be long enough to reach the plug at the bottom of the window. No need for the Comfort Connect (extension) cable. But I like having the charger up on the wall where I can easily see it, so I use the (extension) cable.
This is amongst the most excellent instructions and advice, thank you. Would the CTEK M8(56-382) eyelets work or were the M6 eyelets just a better snugged fit I’d imagine ?
03-23-2023, 03:05 PM
Alternate method.
