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The Flush Stance Police ("FSP") have really delivered in this thread:
1) the tire fitment is off. We aren't modding volkswagens here the sidewall shouldn't be stretched like it is
2) HRE rep should have known better or given you options
3) do post more angles for confirmation that they didn't screw up your offsets... but from the one angle we have the offset looks ok to me...
The Flush Stance Police ("FSP") have really delivered in this thread:
1) the tire fitment is off. We aren't modding volkswagens here the sidewall shouldn't be stretched like it is
2) HRE rep should have known better or given you options
3) do post more angles for confirmation that they didn't screw up your offsets... but from the one angle we have the offset looks ok to me...
This. From that photo the rear tire looks terrible.
Now onto the tires.
Porsche spec tire is most commonly refer to as "N-spec"
Here is the specification from tire rack (refer to the "tread width" row)
The OEM Michelin Cup 2 "N-spec" is 12" wide for 315/30/21.
However the closest Michelin PS4S "non N-spec" would be the MO (Mercedes spec) which is 11.8" wide.
I highly suspect the one installed on your car is the Michelin PS4S AML (Aston Martin spec) whic is 10.8" wide.
If you have the AML spec then your tires is 1.2" narrower than the OEM tires, which explains while it looks pretty stretched.
My mistake @richiele23 the Michelin with (MO) is not Pilot Sport 4S but Pilot Sport All Season 4.
Looks like your option are these 3 N-spec tires:
1. Goodyear Eagle F1 super sport: 255/35/20, 315/30/21
2. PZero (PZ4): 255//35/20, 315/30/21
3. Michelin Pilot Cup 2: 255/35/20, 315/30/21.
Pilot cup is racing tires, so it will be less grippy when the weather get colder or in the wet.
You're half an inch wider in the rear with only 3mm higher in offset so they should be farther out.
Pls post better pics from other angles. This is really bothering me. Haha.
I think part of the problem is just the design of the wheel. The edge/barrel of the wheel has this lip/dish that goes in at least half an inch before the spokes meet the barrel, giving the appearance of an offset that's more tucked in than a wheel where the spokes meet right at the edge of the rim.
The issue is not the offset. Let me share my offset recipe book
Without getting too technical the genera rule of thumb: alower offset number for the same car, with the same wheel width (not diameter) means the wheel will be sticking out more/closer to the fender.
The way to calculate offset is pretty simple. An offfset Zero means the mounting pad of the wheels is exactly in the middle of the wheel width.
But in your case let just focused on the stock/oem GT3 wheels offset vs the HRE.
Below is the OEM GT3T wheel with 12" width with an offset of (+45). The mounting pad of the wheels is 107.45mm from the center of the wheel width.
The HRE has a width of 12.5" width with an offset of (+48). Although the offset is higher but the wheel width is also larger, this put the mounting pad of the wheel is 110.75mm from the center of the wheel width.
What this means your new HRE is now closer to the fender by 3.3mm (110.75mm -107.4mm). Appearance wise this should make your new wheel sit more flush to the fender compare to the OEM GT3T wheels.
Your issue with the wheel gap is the tire not the wheel offset/wheel width.
3.3mm is only about 1/8th of an inch.
It still sounds like an offset issue...if that 12.5" wheel just had the same ET (45mm) as the stock wheel the HRE wheel would be about 7mm (1/4") closer to the fender.
The only way to move this wheel further towards the fender is to either use a spacer or rebuild the wheel with a narrower inner barrel and wider outer barrel, equating to a larger offset.
It still sounds like an offset issue...if that 12.5" wheel just had the same ET (45mm) as the stock wheel the HRE wheel would be about 7mm (1/4") closer to the fender.
The only way to move this wheel further towards the fender is to either use a spacer or rebuild the wheel with a narrower inner barrel and wider outer barrel, equating to a larger offset.
offset is fine.
stock is 12.0” wide with et 45
hre is 12.5” wide with et 48
I think part of the problem is just the design of the wheel. The edge/barrel of the wheel has this lip/dish that goes in at least half an inch before the spokes meet the barrel, giving the appearance of an offset that's more tucked in than a wheel where the spokes meet right at the edge of the rim.
if you look at where the lip sit, it looks correct, the tire is the problem.
ive given data above. Its all mathematic. Lets not continue to speculate
offset is fine.
stock is 12.0” wide with et 45
hre is 12.5” wide with et 48
different width and different offset.
Agreed, offset is fine if he wants to maintain the current look and the discussion was comparing a stock GT3 wheel and the HRE, which mounted is only about 1/8th inch wider by your calculations.
I thought the OP was asking how to get a more aggressive look with these wheels or why they don't fill out the fender.
The only way to move this wheel further towards the fender is to either use a spacer or rebuild the wheel using a thinner inner barrel and wider outer barrel, equating to a larger offset.
Wondering if I could get your input on a set of HRE 501's that I recently installed on my GT3 Touring. Absolutely love the look of them, except for how the rear tire is sitting with the fender. I was hoping for more of a wider/aggressive stance. The "gap" and tire being much narrower than the fender is bothering me. Can't do spacers as these are center locks. When I purchased the HRE's, we didn't go over any of the specs as options, is this normal? I am very unfamiliar with aftermarket wheels and set ups. Maybe I am just being picky, but a good amount of $$ and just want the wheels to be exactly to my liking.
Options:
1. Installer said there is room to lower the back a little to close the gap a little. He said the front is maximized on how low it can on stock suspension. Should I drop the back a little?
2. Reach out to HRE and see if theres anything they can do about customizing the wheel?
3. Leave as is
DO NOT lower the rear more. Lowering the rear will not make the rims sit more flush. In fact, it will increase your negative camber and make your rims sink in even further. I would contact HRE and try to get them to build you a new set of rear wheels with a much more aggressive offset. That is a pretty weak fitment particularly for a custom set of super expensive rims. I can't tell if you have one piece or two piece rims. If they are two piece rims, they might be able to re configure the rims to a better offset.
If HRE won't help, short of selling the rims and starting over you can also try running 325-30-21 tires in the back. This will fill out the wheel wells a bit with tires that will push out 5mm more. Also, find a tire that has a square shoulder to fill in the wheel wells further.
Agreed, offset is fine if he wants to maintain the current look and the discussion was comparing a stock GT3 wheel and the HRE, which mounted is only about 1/8th inch wider by your calculations.
I thought the OP was asking how to get a more aggressive look with these wheels or why they don't fill out the fender.
The only way to move this wheel further towards the fender is to either use a spacer or rebuild the wheel using a thinner inner barrel and wider outer barrel, equating to a larger offset.
GT3/GT3RS is probably one of very few car from the factory that has stock wheel (stock offset) sit flush with the fender. This HRE 12.5” wide already pushing out 3.3mm outward (closer to the fender).
to fix this is fix the tires. Only available Michelin PS4 in 315/30/21 is (AML) spec which is 1.2” narrower. That is 30mm narrower than the cup2 that come with the GT3.
this like putting 255 tires on the car that comes with 285 tire from the factory.
Its definitely under-tire and will also look weird/messed up.
also keep i mind offset is calculated from the “(width of the rim)/2”.
0.5” is 12.7mm. Half of that is 6.35mm. A 12.5 wide with ET 45 will stickout 6.35 mm compared to 12” with ET45.
but in this case the HRE has ET48. So it instead sticking out 6.35mm, the HRE is only stickout outward by 3.35mm compared to the stock GT3 ET45.
Another option is as @AlterZgo suggested get the non-porsche Michelin in 325/335 wide.
Another option is as @AlterZgo suggested get the non-porsche Michelin in 325/335 wide.
Michelin PS4S comes in a 325-30-21 ND0 Porsche Panamera version that has a tread width of 11.5" which is about .7" wider than the 315-30-21 AML version. That should fill out the rears wheel wells a bit.
Another thing I forgot to mention is maybe OP should actually raise the F and R of the car a bit. There's no reason to run the GT3 coilovers slammed to lowest setting up front. Raising the suspension F and R will actually reduce the negative camber and fill in the rear wheel wells even more and make the car handle and ride properly.
OP,
Below are some pictures of what it should look like. More info on options can be found here. As others have said it doesn't look like offset is the issue, but you could have had them push it out since HREs are custom. https://apexwheels.com/vehicles/pors...92-gt3-touring
A 315mm tire will generally be pretty narrow on a 12.5" wide wheel, the OEM option uses a 315mm wide tire on a 12" wide rear wheel. The GT3 RS uses 13" wide rear wheels and runs 335mm rubber.
Ideally you want the thread width of the tire to be between 0" to -0.5" the width of the wheel. SO, for your 12.5" wide HRE rear wheel you would be looking at a thread width between 12.0" and 12.5". The thread widths are not standard information provided with the car but measured by tirerack.com and can be found by clicking the "Specs" button as shown below for the Cup 2.
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