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Took longer than anticipated, but we've finally made it!
I am happy to introduce our new Wheeldo to you. Made out of Delrin. Screw on cap to protect its threads in your toolbox as well as the toolbox from the silver paste infested threads. :-))
I think you will like the pricing:
USD 139 + shipping
USD 99 + shipping if bought together with NutCracker (applies retrospectively to anyone who ordered NutCracker before - send me your order # and I will reply with a discount code)
Shipping costs USD 29 by FedEx. Delivered in one week from EU.
We will start accepting orders in approx 2 weeks. Professional photos must be taken and our store updated to allow bundle purchase.
Last edited by Gabriel@NutCracker; 07-26-2024 at 10:19 AM.
The alignment tool is really helpful to keep on hand in the car. A good value including the cap to protect the threads which some others do not have.
Your price is just excellent, selling for around what they were going for about 5-6 years ago. Some of similar material are $300 plus now.
I just removed a CL wheel flat the other day in my garage with what tools that I always carry in the car's frunk....
Used a 36" breaker bar and attached an electronic digital torque device - $58 on Amazon, an alignment tool, the Castrol paste and my 996 aluminum jack/jack pad bought on eBay ....C/L bolt came off so easy lifting up using my legs and tightening by pushing downward to 443 pounds with same tools, the CL mechanism locked after torquing very easily too after checking by pushing in and it springing back out....... was so super easy. I was laughing about people avoiding CL wheels.
I don't understand why people say it is so hard to deal with CL wheels......and also why they buy expensive tools with C/Ls, i.e. motorized wrenches.
The alignment tool is really helpful to keep on hand in the car. A good value including the cap to protect the threads which some others do not have.
Your price is just excellent, selling for around what they were going for about 5-6 years ago. Some of similar material are $300 plus now.
I just removed a CL wheel flat the other day in my garage with what tools that I always carry in the car's frunk....
Used a 36" breaker bar and attached an electronic digital torque device - $58 on Amazon, an alignment tool, the Castrol paste and my 996 aluminum jack/jack pad bought on eBay ....C/L bolt came off so easy lifting up using my legs and tightening by pushing downward to 443 pounds with same tools, the CL mechanism locked after torquing very easily too after checking by pushing in and it springing back out....... was so super easy. I was laughing about people avoiding CL wheels.
I don't understand why people say it is so hard to deal with CL wheels......and also why they buy expensive tools with C/Ls, i.e. motorized wrenches.
Bunch of chicken littles overthinking and repeating baseless negatives that float around on this forum. Nothing wrong with centerlocks and they are not some mystical exotic mechanism hindering a cross country road trip. They look better, come on and off just as easy as 5 lugs, and weigh less. If you have a flat so severe you need to remove the wheel you are flat bedding anyway. No tire shop will have that size and if they do then they can surely remove a centerlock.
Bunch of chicken littles overthinking and repeating baseless negatives that float around on this forum. Nothing wrong with centerlocks and they are not some mystical exotic mechanism hindering a cross country road trip. They look better, come on and off just as easy as 5 lugs, and weigh less. If you have a flat so severe you need to remove the wheel you are flat bedding anyway. No tire shop will have that size and if they do then they can surely remove a centerlock.
Agree......I have a tire plug kit in the car also, if the flat can be repaired on the road.....you are exactly right......tire usually would need to be ordered unless a Porsche dealer is close and has stock. I also carry the tools because some shops do not have the 3/4 inch torque wrenches and certainly not the alignment tool.
Agree......I have a tire plug kit in the car also, if the flat can be repaired on the road.....you are exactly right......tire usually would need to be ordered unless a Porsche dealer is close and has stock. I also carry the tools because some shops do not have the 3/4 inch torque wrenches and certainly not the alignment tool.
Alignment tool is nice to have and an extra safety measure. More so if you have PCCB. A 3/4 to 1/2 reducer would work in a pinch too and would weigh less to carry around in the front tool compartment.
Alignment tool is nice to have and an extra safety measure. More so if you have PCCB. A 3/4 to 1/2 reducer would work in a pinch too and would weigh less to carry around in the front tool compartment.
Weight can be a concern. My breaker is 3/4 and digital torque adapter is 3/4 inch, alignment tool is aluminum……the socket is 3/4, so it all is compatible…the 996 jack is aluminum -$ 60 at the time on eBay…I have all the tools in a canvas bag that fits in bottom of frunk…..no long distance travel anxiety)
The alignment tool is really helpful to keep on hand in the car. A good value including the cap to protect the threads which some others do not have.
Your price is just excellent, selling for around what they were going for about 5-6 years ago. Some of similar material are $300 plus now.
I just removed a CL wheel flat the other day in my garage with what tools that I always carry in the car's frunk....
Used a 36" breaker bar and attached an electronic digital torque device - $58 on Amazon, an alignment tool, the Castrol paste and my 996 aluminum jack/jack pad bought on eBay ....C/L bolt came off so easy lifting up using my legs and tightening by pushing downward to 443 pounds with same tools, the CL mechanism locked after torquing very easily too after checking by pushing in and it springing back out....... was so super easy. I was laughing about people avoiding CL wheels.
I don't understand why people say it is so hard to deal with CL wheels......and also why they buy expensive tools with C/Ls, i.e. motorized wrenches.
Since this sounds like you did this yourself what did you use to brake the front wheels and keep the steering wheel straight. Or did you not do this yourself?
Since this sounds like you did this yourself what did you use to brake the front wheels and keep the steering wheel straight. Or did you not do this yourself?
Should have mentioned the Irwin clamp that depresses the brake against the front driver’s seat and a Velcro tie utilized for steering wheel…..with the rear wheels no need….I carry the clamp too onboard….