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Can the CTEK chargers no longer charge the battery via the cigarette lighter plug in the passenger footwell?
once a LiON battery has dropped "offline" it's not accepting any input voltage - it's disconnected from it's power bus - also the 12V plug in the passenger foot well is also disconnected in my 2022 911 TurboS unless you follow a particluar shutdown sequence - there has to be some minimal power on the vehicle's powerbus for it to be 'active'…
between the car disconnecting various power inputs, and the battery disconnecting itself when it's 'too low' - the only way to get power to the battery is by direct connection to the +/- terminals on the battery - and then you need a charger that is capable of "waking up the battery"…it's more complex than it should be and represents a regression in reliability in my opinion - the new batteries and the associated complexity is not worth any of the advantages - but I'm not the person making these sorts of decisions.
THIS! Took me a while to realize that. But the NOCO works great in boost.
And, as someone else mentioned, important to have a very solid negative ground. Door hinge typically works.
required equipment for modern porsches these days unfortunately - it's also a decent USB "charger" for devices and such and includes the light - so it's a generically useful device, and has enough power to start an ICE or EV or wake up a Porsche via the fuse-box dance…and then start the vehicle with direct access to the 12V battery terminals.
The Porsche roadside wrecker tried their NOCO on my fusebox. It was No Go. The screen wouldn't read out at all on the NOCO no matter and he tried every grounding bolt on the door hinges
Yup we have tried that procedure following the manual to a tee and no luck. Advising customers with these cars to either plug in a charger or leave the frunk popped in storage to avoid this situation for now.
Car is being towed into the dealer to see what the next step. We are unsure if it is this specific car's problem or not but not much sample data out there yet.
UPDATE: So after no luck with the procedure outlined in the manual, car had to be dollied onto flatbed and towed to dealer.
Front wheel had to be removed along with the fender liner in order to access the service only hood release cable hidden near the headlight/front bumper area.
Again we are unsure if this is specific to this car that the procedure in the manual doesn't work or they are all like that as there are too few out there and hopefully none are dead to experience this. Key point really is to either keep the car on a charger if you can or pop the front trunk during non-driving period if stored in a secure area until more data comes in.
“Front wheel had to be removed along with the fender liner in order to access the service only hood release cable hidden near the headlight/front bumper area.”
I think if I had one of these cars I would figure out a way to simply extend that manual release cable some with a loop at the end, and just tuck it right behind the fender liner like in the 997. That way you could easily reach it. Get some stainless cable and extend what’s already there. Granted I understand that on a new 200k+ car one should not need to do that. But the engineer in me sees the problem, and how to address it. I would not wait till a failure happened.
“Front wheel had to be removed along with the fender liner in order to access the service only hood release cable hidden near the headlight/front bumper area.”
I think if I had one of these cars I would figure out a way to simply extend that manual release cable some with a loop at the end, and just tuck it right behind the fender liner like in the 997. That way you could easily reach it. Get some stainless cable and extend what’s already there. Granted I understand that on a new 200k+ car one should not need to do that. But the engineer in me sees the problem, and how to address it. I would not wait till a failure happened.
And the customer in me just shakes his head in disbelief.
im so tired of manufactures adding sh-t that does nothing but increase cost and complexity , its hard to believe that some one at porsche didnt figure out that you may need to use the car again after the battery dies!
instead you get it towed to the dealer!!
Our 2018 Honda Odyssey has this sweet 10 speed transmission where you push a button for park, neutral, and drive.
You can’t get the van into neutral if you lose power unless you buy a special tool and know where to place it on the transmission and turn it to get the van into neutral.
At least Jeep came up with a solution. I saw a tow truck driver demo it on a Grand Cherokee or something where you just pull off the driver’s footwell plastic and pull a cord, and the vehicle goes into neutral.
So… I just went through this process. I left my parking lights on last night and when I came home today to go for a drive the car was dead. I panicked and almost broke my driver side window in the process. Not realizing it stopped adjusting when opening/closing. Luckily it didn’t break. Car was unlocked btw.
I rushed to autozone to grab a set of cables, they happened to be 8 gauge.
I don’t know why, probably cuz I like wasting money.
I got back home used the cables along with my old anti gravity h6 battery and followed the manual on my phone for emergency hood release and no luck. Hood wouldn’t open with the key.
I then tried the Noco. I attached positive terminal then when I would attach the negative on the door jam the Noco would instantly shut off and the error symbol would light up. Tried both these steps multiple times. No luck.
Now I’m starting to get pissed cuz I’m following directions and getting sh*t results. I remembered the Matt Armstrong video (episode 4, 14:18 mark).
I was on route to advance auto parts now to buy one of these (used in the video).
but I knew I still needed to open the frunk. I thought maybe the antigravity isn’t fully charged. I then turn and go back to autozone since it’s closer and figured I should buy something to read the voltage of the battery. They were out of stock but had this cable (2 gauge) that gives a read out.
I got back hooked it up to antigravity first and it was at 14 volts. I then tried for the heck of it to hook it up to the fuse again and the door jam. BOOM it opened.
once it opened. I connected antigravity to the car battery and instantly kicked on. The car then started right up.
So, long story longer. Maybe the gauge wire for the jumper you were using is the culprit here?
Hope this helps anyone who gets into this situation.
Antigravity Batteries here and I wanted to chime in on a couple points over the next few posts... If I missed or repeat something already stated sorry. I'm just posting after reading a majority of the posts but not every one.
In regards to not being able to get in the Frunk because the Porsche Lithium Battery, or your Lead/Acid Battery has died in your 992 or other varient of Porsche....
The best method to get into your trunk if the Porsche Lithium Battery or a Lead/Acid Battery goes dead in your 992 or other 911 varient, is actually not at the Fuse Panel's red buss. Yes, that can work sometimes but it is very hit and miss, the issue is that the Red Buss you pull out in the fuse panel does not really supply the Frunk Open switch with high enough energy to get a solid amount of voltage/current to frunk latch , this is due mainly because it uses too thin of a gauge of wire to really allow the frunk open switch to draw the current/voltage it needs to get a solid opening of the latch. , for example if you connected a mini Jump Starter to the Red Panel in many cases you will not get the Frunk switch to open when using the button on the rocker panel , nor if using the Cars Keyfob, but the Keyfob did seem to work better for whatever reason.
After alot of testing we found the Frunk Switch does open easily if the Car is energized AT THE BATTERY itself. When this is done, you DO get a solid opening of the Frunk Latch every time because the voltage/current can go through its normal path and deliver that higher current needed for the latch. So, several years ago we designed a solution for this exact problem by making a wire harness that connects directly to the battery clamps at the Car Battery itself and then is routed to a place outside of the car. In our GT3 we routed it to the outside of the car where the windsheild meets the hoods of the car you can see in the images below , it can then be tucked away after use and not seen. The plug on the end of this Harness can work with our MICRO-START Jump Starters and some other Brands that use a similar type of Connector. So what you do is simply connect our MICRO-START Jump STarter to this wire harness, and you can then either use it to open the Frunk, or Jump Start the Car. So its a super simple, inexpensive and easy to install Harness that eliminates this problem from happening to you. I put the video below to explain it better.... works for any vehicles that have this similar issue of needing power to the system for something to work. LINK TO ANTIGRAVITY CLAMPLESS HARNESS https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...s-msa10b-long/
PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING. If you have a Porsche Lithium Battery that is in its PROTECTION or SLEEP MODE, then you want to make sure it is AWAKE if you are going to try to START it with a Jump Sarter. The reason for this is because the Jump Starter can supply the energy to start the Car, but if your Porsche Lithium Battery is in its SLEEP/PROTECTION mode then it wll NOT take a charge, nor be providing the Battery buffer function and proper operation to the car. In some cases simply connecting our Jump STarter to the Porsche Battery MAY awaken the Porsche Lithium Battery from its SLEEP/PROTECTION MODE, but the Porsche Lithium Battery also sometimes goes into permanant LOCK-OUT mode, which makes it so it won't even function. The point is to make sure the battery is indeed awake if you plan to "Start" the Car with a jump starter, and not just get into the Frunk. YOu can check for this if the battery is showing voltage at the terminals at about 10v and above would show it awake.
A couple things about the Porsche Lithium Battery...
Unfortunately the Porsche Lithium Battery that comes equipped in the Cars with rear wheel steering RAS has had some issues for some people so I wanted to explain a little about it.
A lithium battery has a battery management system (BMS) that monitors and protects the battery from several different factors like overdischarge, overcharge, over/under temperature and a few other protections. This makes for a extremely long life because you don't ruin or damage your batttery like you might with a lead acid battery by something like a simple over-discharge. Over-discharge of a Lead/Acid or Lithium Battery is the main culprit in battery damage. I'd figure about 90% of all Lead/Acid Car batteries that go bad are simply from over-discharging them accidentally by leaving the lights on storing it too long, have extra accessories like Radar Detectors, Cameras, USB devices that cause a faster drain on the battery and you then might store the car to long and over-discharge a battery and if it a Lead/Acid battery you will damage it or even ruin it by too deep of and over-discharge. THe exact same thing can happen to a Lithium Battery, but a high quality Lithium Battery has a Battery Managment System inside, its a circuit board that can shut off the battery if it see it is being over-discharge or over-charged so it has a protection system that can lead to a much longer lifespan because it removes the potential for over-discharge damaging your battery.
So on a typical high quality Lithium Battery , if you have stored you car to long or left the stereo running for a longtime while the motor was off you may over-discharge your Lithium Battery to the point of it going into sleep mode. But the lithium Batteries BMS will turn itself off and put the battery into what we call a SLEEP/PROTECTION mode. This prevents the battery from further discharge and damage, but the battery is also asleep so in effect it is not providing energy to the car so its essentially "dead". So normally, for example with our Antigravity Lithium Battery, we give you 3 ways to WAKE-UP our Battery..... 1) you press the RE-STARTbutton located on the battery iself, 2) you use our wiresless keyfob that comes with our battery, 3) you supply the battery with a 12v pulse of energy from another battery or a Charger that can do this energy pulse and it wakes up. But for the Porsche Lithium Battery they only have ONE method to awaken the battery, and that is the PULSE OF ENERGY method, meaning you have to hit the battery with a pulse of energy from an outside source such as a charger, or another battery to wake them up. This is basically how most all Lithium Batteries can be woken up, it is a standard method in the industry. But it also poses a problem because if you don't have a charger or another battery source you are sort of dead in the water to get the battery awakened out of protection mode...
But there is another factor in BMS protection involved here, and that is a problem we see with the PORSCHE Lithium Battery.... Say for example you stored your lithium battery much too long and it actually got down into the 2~3v..... in that case the battery is RUINED and no longer any good. The fact is a lithium battery (or even Lead/Acid) discharged to this point is damaged and could be dangerous to try to recharge because when over-discharged to this degree the Lithium cells are not as stable, so Lithium manufacturers will put a "permanant lockout" that has programming designed to not allow the battery to be awakened or recharged if they are in that ultra low state of over-discharge and in worst case scenerio cause fire if charged again. This is a done for SAFETY and it is a good thing for Lithium Batteries. It is a quite difficult to get a quality lithium battery to this level so it is a rare occurance, but if you have stored you car a very long time and not kept the lithium battery charge it could get to this point and will go into permanant lock-out. The first defense was you battery going into SLEEP PROTECTION MODE, but if the batttery is not recharged for another 6-8 months after it has already gone into sleep mode, it could go into permanant lock-out mode....
So the point of that my rambling above is that we have seen alot of the Porsche Batteries going into this Permanant Lock-out Mode and not being able to be awakened, yet the battery-pack inside is not in an over-discharged state, nor damaged. So what is happening is the battery is programed or manufacturered a certain way and it is going into this permanant lockout mode due to faulty programming of the BMS. This is proven by the fact that there are a few companies offering to open the Porsche Batteries and getting them to wake up. I saw there was a Chinese company offering a fix but also several on ebay. We do not follow this, but it appear you can do some reporgramming and jumping of some pins to make a Porsche Lihthium wake up. I don't have details but know it is being done, and there are some threads on Renn about it. In any event it is not the battery pack inside and is a fault of battery manufacturer, so don't let Porsche tell you its not warrantied and that you have to pay $2500 dollars for a new battery. A Lithium Battery should be lasting you a very long time, and giving you more years of service than a Lead Acid battery so fight any dealer who tried to not warranty it.
As I recall it is hard to get a replacement as of a few months ago...not sure about now.
Last if anyone has this issue we think we have a work around and can make it so you can use our Battery or a regular AGM Battery.... it just requires swapping the Ground Cable, but we want to test this a bit more with some people to fully confirm this. So if anyone is interested reach out to us at scott@antigravitybatteries.com or chad@antigravitybatteries.com
07-06-2023, 01:08 PM
