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Just read through this thread. very informative. My dealer here in Long Island quoted $400 for an oil change . I miss the subsidized VW $20 oil changes for my Golf R!
I have almost 6k miles on my new Carrera base. First year in late June is free service and oil change - I wont be driving most of March so might as well hold out. A I will around 8k miles by then. I don't track the car yet but do have a cobb stage 1.
Talking about dealer costs for an oil/filter change...just had our Carrera serviced. Two year point, but car has only 15,000 miles. I personally changed the oil/filter a few months ago after some track days, but elected (per the advice I've posted in this thread) to continue to follow the Porsche schedule per the car's computer...there were only 1,000+ miles on the oil. I'm very, very embarrassed to admit that I only put 3,000 miles on the car in the last year. Bill: $375 but I had a coupon that saved me $50, so I paid $325. (Better than my PCA discount.) Now then, I did get a "complimentary world class multi point inspection." Nice to have brake pad and tire measurements on the record. Reset them to spec since I'd left them at the track day "cold" settings. Now then, my local dealer's REALLY nice new facility is REALLY nice. Had a coffee. (Both in my bill somewhere or somehow.) They couldn't finish the job in a day so I had a nice new 2019 Cayman GTS loaner. Hey, we bought a new 2017 Carrera 911 and entered the spiraling cost vortex with eyes wide open. Annoying side story: the dealer tech failed to fill my Blackstone oil sample bottle with enough oil to get a report. That, my friends, really, really annoyed me. Otherwise, brand new top class dealership facility, competent service rep...not a whole lot not to like.
Just read through this thread. very informative. My dealer here in Long Island quoted $400 for an oil change . I miss the subsidized VW $20 oil changes for my Golf R!
I have almost 6k miles on my new Carrera base. First year in late June is free service and oil change - I wont be driving most of March so might as well hold out. A I will around 8k miles by then. I don't track the car yet but do have a cobb stage 1.
Hey which dealer did you go to?
I'm scheduled for a service at the new Gold Coast (ex Roslyn) facility in March.
This will be at 30k miles and they insist on doing a full maintenance service as opposed to just an oil change (which is what the car is telling me to do).
Hey which dealer did you go to?
I'm scheduled for a service at the new Gold Coast (ex Roslyn) facility in March.
This will be at 30k miles and they insist on doing a full maintenance service as opposed to just an oil change (which is what the car is telling me to do).
PS: their coffee is nice
Let us know how the full service goes and how much they charge if you decide to do it. Also, let us know how the new facility is.
Great thread; much appreciated. Any happy medium temperature between oil hot enough to drain easily vs. too hot to safely work with? Don’t want to burn fingers when first gush of oil comes out when drain plug is removed. Thinking something like 140 degrees might be optimal.
I use elbow length black dishwashing gloves which are thin enough to feel and grip the oil drain plug but thick enough to protect from the hot oil splashing on the fingers.
Did my first oil change on my 991.1 GTS at a bit over 4500 miles today. Thanks @bkrantz for the awesome write-up.
Got a couple 5 QT jugs of M1 0W-40 at Walmart. Had ordered the oil filter kit from Suncoast (PK992OFK is the part the website guided me into ordering). Picked up two sets of 3" Race Ramp Trak Jax.
Everything went pretty smoothly in terms of following the directions. It's very easy to pull the minimal about of stuff off the top of the engine to access the filter for anybody on the fence about doing this.
I ran into a snag towards the end. As I was putting the new filter into the filter housing, it seemed like it really didn't want to go all the way in. So I pulled it back out and it seemed like filter kit Suncoast sent me didn't have numbers matching the filter that came with the car. They are the same size and shape, but the inner hole is somewhat narrower. I probably could've forced it over the protrusion at the bottom of the filter housing, but figured it might be the wrong part. So I put the old filter back in with the old o-ring and closed it back up without changing the filter (for now).
Here are photos of the label for the oil filter kit from Suncoast and the filter top. Can anybody with a 991.2 GTS verify if these are correct? And if so, did you just force the filter down over the protrusion, which probably bent or tore the overhanging material in the center of the filter? I should've taken a photo of the filter that came in the car, but didn't think of it.
I don't think it's that big a deal to keep using the filter until 10,000 (or 1 year). But if I can verify it's the correct part, I'll probably swap out the old one for the new one since I've paid for it.
Given the ambiguity about how much oil would drain and require replacing, I used a 4 quart measuring cup and after draining the oil (for between 45 minutes and an hour), I measured just about 9.5 liters of old oil. I only put in about 9 liters and the resulting oil level is just below the max line. Could probably put another half liter in, but didn't bother. Better a bit under than over.
Did my first oil change on my 991.1 GTS at a bit over 4500 miles today. Thanks @bkrantz for the awesome write-up.
Got a couple 5 QT jugs of M1 0W-40 at Walmart. Had ordered the oil filter kit from Suncoast (PK992OFK is the part the website guided me into ordering). Picked up two sets of 3" Race Ramp Trak Jax.
Everything went pretty smoothly in terms of following the directions. It's very easy to pull the minimal about of stuff off the top of the engine to access the filter for anybody on the fence about doing this.
I ran into a snag towards the end. As I was putting the new filter into the filter housing, it seemed like it really didn't want to go all the way in. So I pulled it back out and it seemed like filter kit Suncoast sent me didn't have numbers matching the filter that came with the car. They are the same size and shape, but the inner hole is somewhat narrower. I probably could've forced it over the protrusion at the bottom of the filter housing, but figured it might be the wrong part. So I put the old filter back in with the old o-ring and closed it back up without changing the filter (for now).
Here are photos of the label for the oil filter kit from Suncoast and the filter top. Can anybody with a 991.2 GTS verify if these are correct? And if so, did you just force the filter down over the protrusion, which probably bent or tore the overhanging material in the center of the filter? I should've taken a photo of the filter that came in the car, but didn't think of it.
I don't think it's that big a deal to keep using the filter until 10,000 (or 1 year). But if I can verify it's the correct part, I'll probably swap out the old one for the new one since I've paid for it.
Given the ambiguity about how much oil would drain and require replacing, I used a 4 quart measuring cup and after draining the oil (for between 45 minutes and an hour), I measured just about 9.5 liters of old oil. I only put in about 9 liters and the resulting oil level is just below the max line. Could probably put another half liter in, but didn't bother. Better a bit under than over.
Well, you should have used that new filter. It presses on the lower protrusion of the oil filter housing as you torque the cap down.
Well, you should have used that new filter. It presses on the lower protrusion of the oil filter housing as you torque the cap down.
Once I can confirm it's the correct filter, I will swap in the new one for the old one. But I didn't want to risk it being the incorrect part and the part numbers on the new filter do not appear to match the numbers on the OEM filter. Keeping the old filter (at 4500 miles) won't hurt anything. Using an incorrect filter might.
The old filter seems to have wider "tunnel" openings on both ends of the filter. So when I stuck the old filter back in, I was able to push it down onto the protrusion by hand pretty easily. I think it's just the material on the ends of the tunnel that make the new part narrower. It just seems odd to have to bend or tear something, which is what will happen if I torque down the new filter into the filter housing.
I had my oil changed a year ago this week on my 2017 "911 991.2 " (Mobil 0-40) however I have only put 1,300 miles on the clock since then , I changed it for the first time when it had 2,490 miles on it last May. My question is two fold. Do I really need to change it after only 1,300 miles ? (it now only has a total of 3,790 miles on it) ??? And since I live in central /north Florida (Ponce Inlet, it's by Daytona) should I be using a heavier oil than Mobil 1 0-40 weight ? Thanks Britdave.
I watched dealer change oil in my 2017 991.2. It was actually pretty straight forward. A few notes:
- No need to open spoiler and the opening is actually decent size (looks smaller in pictures)
- The fans pop out pretty easy and there is only 1 connector that needs to be removed (also pops out easy and has secondary pin that you need to be careful not to damage). The whole intake assembly comes out with both fans... no need to unplug individual fans etc.
- If you remove oil fill cap and loosen filter, then remove drain plug, the filter has almost no oil left (it all drains out)
- It can take 30 min for oil to drip out (or at least 20 min). You can use flat head screw driver to remove it... no need to special tool.
- Drain plug is plastic and clicks into place (no torque applied)... you should apply a little oil on seal and use new part (don't reuse old plug). This is first time 911 has plastic pan and drain plug, but older models had metal and torqued plug... new design is fool proof.
- Replacement oil filter comes with new cap...need long wrench extension to reach it. It torques down to 25 lb (this isn't much and similar to slight hand tighten)
- Depending on how much drained, you can start with as little as 7 qts of oil. From experience, dealer tech started with 7.75 then let car get up to temp (this varies on how you use car) and measure. Added a little and ended up with 8.5 qts total and oil level is good. There is a large delta of oil reserve so its hard to fill too low, but its important to not overfill. If you track the car, you want oil level to be lower because after heat up it could overfill.
- When reinstalling intake, there is a plastic ring piece that a little finicky to put back in.
It actually takes a while to do the oil change because of oil drain, heat up, and measure time (then again heat and re-measure). This is primarily why dealer must change more for the oil change (300-400, but I paid 169 with special). In theory you could take less time to drain and 'estimate' fill. You could simply dump and add 8 qts. Dealer takes extra steps to ensure level is really accurate. During downtime they are inspecting the car.
The whole intake assembly comes out with both fans... no need to unplug individual fans etc.
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What are you saying here exactly? Did the dealer pull off the fans and leave them dangling on the intake assembly and then pulled off the intake?
I agree oil change is pretty easy on this car- the last 2 times I’ve done it I’ve had exactly 10 quarts out/ 10 quarts in to get it to the top bar- this after draining overnight- in the morning there is still a slow oil drip.
Correct - the fans dangle with intake assembly. You carefully just move it aside as a single piece.
10 qts sounds high... I guess its possible if it gets drained for a day. After 20 min its basically not coming out and at that point about 8 qts is just enough. Its possible some cars drain more and you need to add more. Then also after heating up the level can change etc. This is the whole complicated part here... how much you drained and how much to put in based on what temp. I would be on cautious side... add less then add more. The extra oil is just reserve and technically you don't need it for the engine to operate. If you overfill you have to drain again which is harder than adding more. Dealer has computer that is very accurate, but if you DYI you can go by multi-functional gauge i suppose. Seems like there is a wide delta of what is okay.
02-14-2019, 06:11 PM
