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what new battery did you wind up replacing the OEM with?
Long Story - but ended up with a Porsche OEM... I bought at 12.5 with 1200 miles CPO last December. The first couple weeks of ownership I noticed the passenger window would always slightly lower just enough to not see but hear wind. I went into my local dealer for this and they claimed it was the battery but because the car had not been driven enough to properly to maintain the battery; no warranty replacement.
I called the dealer I bought the car from and referred to the the million point inspection they pitched (Porsche Greensboro/Foreign Cars Italia) and [post buying the aftermarket battery] they said to take it to my local dealership to have them replace and send them the bill and they even offered to buy my aftermarket battery if I could not return it for a refund. They really stepped up and made customer service there is awesome - even post sale! where my BMW dealership sucks.
Quick follow up on replacement... It also nailed the clock but that was expected I think, so I don't think the 9V trick works - the radio stations stayed though. Incidentally my clock - if using GPS, is an hour early... ???
With the new battery the car sat fat and happy at 12.5 or 12.6 V (alternator not even running) for a minute or so, then put out 13.5V... At some point in my commute it hit 14.5V, briefly, but generally it goes between 12.6 and 13.5 now.. That's a change from being perpetually at 14.6-14.8 prior...
I am *totally* guessing the battery being newer and more charged, it's not needing to charge it as much. Weird part though, the 4y old porsche battery that was reading 12.19 engine off, in the car, reads 12.5 out of the car ! %^%$# !! So maybe it wasn't as bad as I thought and there's a parasitic drain.... Or some of the car modules suck power because you just opened the frunk and they are not asleep, and it's hard to get a true battery read on this car... Dunno - but for a couple hundred $, I'm OK with having a fresh start on the car (pun intended) with a new battery and new tires (OMG the difference - like a new car!!!). I think I'm going to watch this another day for giggles and take the Voltage indicator out of the display so I can relax ;-)
....So maybe it wasn't as bad as I thought and there's a parasitic drain.... Or some of the car modules suck power because you just opened the frunk and they are not asleep....
I remember a discussion from 996 days that some guys were leaving the cars unlocked during winter storage assuming that having all the alarm sensors not activated would be less drain on the battery.
Someone chimed in (believe he was a P tech) that in fact as soon as you unlock the car 'everything' is basically activated and is waiting on you to to turn on the engine any second....therefore it's a bigger drain on the battery.
Does that mean the car just doesn't need anything to attach to the vent holes? My battery seems to have started to struggle lately so I'm changing it out.
Also do you guys use the felt rings or terminal protectant spray? It didn't look like I had anything on the old battery and I don't see any corrosion.
My real question got sidetracked under replies about the alternator output (replies that I appreciate very much - not complaining ;-)... But my battery is showing 12.19V in the morning after a night's sleep... As far as I know that is an old-dying battery reading and I want to replace it...Manual says "visit dealer or else" - in the past that statement was BS... (my cayman said the same)
So...
*Can I replace my 2013 991 Battery myself of will that trigger a raft of ECU/charging/errors that will require a dealer visit ?*
Is it a crapshoot ?
If the answer is yes, should I maintain power while doing so, and if so what device do you recommend to do that ? Thanks guys !
I called 1-800-Porsche for road side assistance after my 5 year 3 month old battery died. They contacted Roadway Towing who came to my home. The serviceman tested the battery. It was dead. He said he has a compatible Interstate H6 battery. I indicated Porsche said there needed to be software adjustments for the battery. He denied that. I agreed to pay for the installation. There was a Sterring warning that showed up and my Porsche dealership was willing to reset the software at no charge. Brought it in WRONG BATTERY. Cost me time, discussion and more money to get the correct battery and pay for a restocking fee from Roadside Assitance. Warning- Be careful Accepting advice from non Porsche knowledgeable service. Fortunately the only damage was to my wallet. Needed an AGM MTX H6 Interstate Battery.
I purchased a 2015 991 CPO vehicle in early December 2018. From what I recall, the 911 was never on any battery tender when I showed up at the dealership who had the car for 13 or 14 months. They only put 2000 km on it during that time period. I purchased the vehicle and it had a total of 13600 km. It's winter up here in Canada and the car sits in my garage at 15 Celsius. The battery never exceeds 12.4 VDC.
I have argued with the Porsche dealer that the battery test results he provided me were invalid as the "Battery Technology" indicated on the report states an AGM battery.
If they don't change the battery for me, I will post the CPO battery report for all to see...first I am going to give them a chance to respond. I am not going to be driving that car with a battery voltage hovering slightly above 12 VDC.
Great thread with lots of good information. Anyone know if there is any advantage to leaving the Porsche battery tender in the socket during the battery replacement.
I have argued with the Porsche dealer that the battery test results he provided me were invalid as the "Battery Technology" indicated on the report states an AGM battery.
I don't understand "invalid"...... it is (should be) an AGM battery in your car.
When car is running what does your volt meter read?
I guess I am a little confused as to the difference between AGM and flooded lead acid batteries. Our manual does not appear to state that the OEM battery is AGM. Inquiries with the dealer render as many opinions as the number of people asked.
Here is what I found on the Internet and below is a picture of the OEM battery found on the Internet installed in my 2015 991.1; it's a VRLA battery.
What is the difference between SLA, VRLA and AGM batteries?
SLA and VRLA are different acronyms for the same battery, Sealed Lead Acid or Valve Regulated Lead Acid. This battery type has the following characteristics: Maintenance-free, leak-proof, position insensitive. Batteries of this kind have a safety vent to release gas in case of excessive internal pressure build up. AGM, Absorbed Glass Mat refers to a specific type of SLA/VRLA where the electrolyte is absorbed into separators between the plates consisting of sponge like fine glass fiber mats.
I don't understand "invalid"...... it is (should be) an AGM battery in your car.
When car is running what does your volt meter read?
I posted a reply to this yesterday but I guess the moderator vetted my response. Essentially, I stated that I was confused about was constitutes a lead acid battery and the difference between AGM, VRLA, or Gel battery. The service departments at most Porsche dealers around here don't know the difference and can be misleading. Ultimately, AGM or VRLA or Gel batteries are all lead acid batteries. The type of battery in my 2015 is a VRLA. That's what the label on the battery indicates.
10-30-2016, 11:41 PM
991.1 with 12.39 VDC OEM Battery
