Tracking 991.1 S
#34
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If you need even more bite than the RS29, you can use the RSL1 compound:
http://www.paragon-products.com/U492...u4922-rs29.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/Pagi...agid-u4909.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/U492...u4922-rs29.htm
http://www.paragon-products.com/Pagi...agid-u4909.htm
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#35
I thought I would share my experience on the track with stock P Zeros on GTS (Turbo 20" wheels) vs Cup 2's on aftermarket Forgeline 20" wheels and DCS suspension module installed.
My impressions comes from 2 Autocross events and 1 track session at Laguna Seca (stock setup) and 2 track days at Sonoma with the C2 Forgeline DCS setup. No expert here but wanted to share.
Pzeros wore out very quickly as others have commented. When compared to CUP2's there is a wide gap in track performance. Cup2's win hands down.
They were noticeably more planted on the track. Much firmer ride on the street so there is a trade off. I have MPSS on my stock wheels for road driving as they are smoother and more durable than the C2's but they have not been on my car since I got the C2's.
The C2's can throw off some rubber on the track if they are not inflated correctly. At the Werks reunion a Michelin rep told me to keep them between 32-38psi which I did for my recent session at Sonoma. It fixed the rubber issue I had with lower PSIs that were recommended on Rennlist and they performed very well. Sticking with them. And shooting for 33 front 37 rear hot.
DCS vs Stock PASM. With stock there was little difference in roll from regular suspension to PASM activated. I wasn't very impressed with the stock suspension during the Autocross's tight turns. Lots of roll. This prompted the DCS purchase and I have been pleased with the product.
Forgeline wheels were put on with the Cup2's so it's hard to say if the following benefits came from the tire or wheel. I noticed better cornering, acceleration and stopping power on the lighter wheel. Here is a good summary on tire rack that talks about road vs track driving on lighter wheels.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=108
As mentioned I have been very pleased with the DCS suspension as well and would recommend it for the track. Much less roll yet road driving is still very acceptable and not overly stiff....even with the Cup2s.
Next step for me is to upgrade my stock break pads with one of the suggestions here and to switch brake fluid to SRF. I'm getting more aggressive on the track with braking and they became pretty soft on the last few runs at Sonoma. Pads need to be changed anyway so having everything done at once.
These are the last changes I'm going to make. If after next year I'm itching to get on the track more I may consider a dedicated track car.
Overall the value rank of the changes I have made were:
1) Best - cup2 tires (got mine on eBay and they have worked great at a fraction of the cost.)
2) DCS - worked with TPC racing who were great in customizing the settings.
3) wheel upgrade - got my forgeline's second hand.
Good luck wit your changes and keep us posted.
My impressions comes from 2 Autocross events and 1 track session at Laguna Seca (stock setup) and 2 track days at Sonoma with the C2 Forgeline DCS setup. No expert here but wanted to share.
Pzeros wore out very quickly as others have commented. When compared to CUP2's there is a wide gap in track performance. Cup2's win hands down.
They were noticeably more planted on the track. Much firmer ride on the street so there is a trade off. I have MPSS on my stock wheels for road driving as they are smoother and more durable than the C2's but they have not been on my car since I got the C2's.
The C2's can throw off some rubber on the track if they are not inflated correctly. At the Werks reunion a Michelin rep told me to keep them between 32-38psi which I did for my recent session at Sonoma. It fixed the rubber issue I had with lower PSIs that were recommended on Rennlist and they performed very well. Sticking with them. And shooting for 33 front 37 rear hot.
DCS vs Stock PASM. With stock there was little difference in roll from regular suspension to PASM activated. I wasn't very impressed with the stock suspension during the Autocross's tight turns. Lots of roll. This prompted the DCS purchase and I have been pleased with the product.
Forgeline wheels were put on with the Cup2's so it's hard to say if the following benefits came from the tire or wheel. I noticed better cornering, acceleration and stopping power on the lighter wheel. Here is a good summary on tire rack that talks about road vs track driving on lighter wheels.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/...jsp?techid=108
As mentioned I have been very pleased with the DCS suspension as well and would recommend it for the track. Much less roll yet road driving is still very acceptable and not overly stiff....even with the Cup2s.
Next step for me is to upgrade my stock break pads with one of the suggestions here and to switch brake fluid to SRF. I'm getting more aggressive on the track with braking and they became pretty soft on the last few runs at Sonoma. Pads need to be changed anyway so having everything done at once.
These are the last changes I'm going to make. If after next year I'm itching to get on the track more I may consider a dedicated track car.
Overall the value rank of the changes I have made were:
1) Best - cup2 tires (got mine on eBay and they have worked great at a fraction of the cost.)
2) DCS - worked with TPC racing who were great in customizing the settings.
3) wheel upgrade - got my forgeline's second hand.
Good luck wit your changes and keep us posted.
#36
Instructor
Been tracking my 2014 C2S steadily since I bought it new. I run 19" wheels, Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires, Motul 600 fluid, Pagid RS29 pads and FVD stainless steel brake lines.
This is also the exact set up I ended up with on my Cayman S which I tracked for several years prior to my 991.
I run in the instructor group as well. I drive all over the country for DE events and can't take R Comps or dry-only tires with me. I have to be ready for all conditions on what I drive in on. The MPSS tire has been the absolute best tire for this I have found. Love them. Long lasting, great grip. No chunking. Wonderful in the rain. Run them up to 38 psi max hot for best results. Hotter and they get greasy.
I upgraded to ATE fluid from OEM but found after a few sessions with deep braking the pedal got soft. Never failed or boiled, but got soft. Motul 600 solved this completely. Even after a weekend of several hundred miles of super fast runs at Road America the brakes are perfect. Solid and confidence inspiring.
Im sold on the Pagid pads. Reasonably good with rotors, and the pads last a long while. Great modulation and no overheating, ever. I've completely toasted OEM pads in a single weekend. Save them for the street.
OEM rotors will get hairline cracks as all drilled rotors do. This can get pretty extensive before it is really an issue. You will likely wear or groove them out long before one fails for cracks. Slotted rotors will not crack but, to my knowledge, only GiroDisc are available for the 991 in a slotted and are VERY pricey. Too much for me. I can replace several OEM for the price of a set of GiroDisc...so that's what I do.
If you do DE's get the Tarret brake caliper mounting stud kit. It will make your life MUCH easier and you won't risk stripping the aluminum strut assembly with the fine thread steel caliper bolts.
Also, get a set of the AWE Wind Foilers. They replace the little black plastic triangles in front of your door windows with ones that have a little flip up at the end. This aero device removes the cabin buffeting at speed which is so bad it hurts your ears even inside a helmet. Makes a difference at street speeds too.
That's a pretty good "track kit"!
This is also the exact set up I ended up with on my Cayman S which I tracked for several years prior to my 991.
I run in the instructor group as well. I drive all over the country for DE events and can't take R Comps or dry-only tires with me. I have to be ready for all conditions on what I drive in on. The MPSS tire has been the absolute best tire for this I have found. Love them. Long lasting, great grip. No chunking. Wonderful in the rain. Run them up to 38 psi max hot for best results. Hotter and they get greasy.
I upgraded to ATE fluid from OEM but found after a few sessions with deep braking the pedal got soft. Never failed or boiled, but got soft. Motul 600 solved this completely. Even after a weekend of several hundred miles of super fast runs at Road America the brakes are perfect. Solid and confidence inspiring.
Im sold on the Pagid pads. Reasonably good with rotors, and the pads last a long while. Great modulation and no overheating, ever. I've completely toasted OEM pads in a single weekend. Save them for the street.
OEM rotors will get hairline cracks as all drilled rotors do. This can get pretty extensive before it is really an issue. You will likely wear or groove them out long before one fails for cracks. Slotted rotors will not crack but, to my knowledge, only GiroDisc are available for the 991 in a slotted and are VERY pricey. Too much for me. I can replace several OEM for the price of a set of GiroDisc...so that's what I do.
If you do DE's get the Tarret brake caliper mounting stud kit. It will make your life MUCH easier and you won't risk stripping the aluminum strut assembly with the fine thread steel caliper bolts.
Also, get a set of the AWE Wind Foilers. They replace the little black plastic triangles in front of your door windows with ones that have a little flip up at the end. This aero device removes the cabin buffeting at speed which is so bad it hurts your ears even inside a helmet. Makes a difference at street speeds too.
That's a pretty good "track kit"!
#37
Banned
#38
If you want more brake torque the DS3000 are fantastic (again not sure on the sizing) but need heat to be really effective - over 400 degrees C e.g. not so good for a cold start!
Also have a look at project mu RC09 "club racer" pads (cf 0.45 to .55 and t up to 800 degrees C) - available in GT3 sizes (at least the 6 pot, 4 pot combo) and a range of other sizes.
#39
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#41
Drifting
#43
TTT
I must say I have met the friendliest guys and a couple of gals during my 4 year DE career. 40+ track days
I am about to upgrade to a 2015 C2S and have a few questions.
Coming from a track setup M3 2005, I feel my upgraded track differential was a huge benefit.
My question is, How do I KNOW if the car I am looking at C2S has PTV ,PTV+?
The car I am looking at ha PASM SPORTS SUSPENSION W/PDCC
I see vectoring as a possible negative due to smoking the rear brakes.
....I've never seen a corner that you don't Trail brake
I consider Barber my home track, love the CORNERS!!!!!
I must say I have met the friendliest guys and a couple of gals during my 4 year DE career. 40+ track days
I am about to upgrade to a 2015 C2S and have a few questions.
Coming from a track setup M3 2005, I feel my upgraded track differential was a huge benefit.
My question is, How do I KNOW if the car I am looking at C2S has PTV ,PTV+?
The car I am looking at ha PASM SPORTS SUSPENSION W/PDCC
I see vectoring as a possible negative due to smoking the rear brakes.
....I've never seen a corner that you don't Trail brake
I consider Barber my home track, love the CORNERS!!!!!
#44
Rennlist Member
I believe that all of the S models have PTV, mechanical PTV if it's a manual and electronic (PTV+) if it's a PDK.
Yes, rear brakes are an issue, particularly if you trail brake into corners. I found myself chewing through rears faster than fronts.
However, you can defeat PTV by turning off all the nannies - needless to say you want to be cautious with this and slowly build your speeds back up. And the car does handle differently with the nannies off.
Bottom left button on the center console turns them off, you will first discover this on a skid pad, because without turning them off you will have a very difficult time forcing oversteer in order to feel the car when it's out of balance.
One more thing, you lose throttle blip when you turn off the nannies. Good luck and be careful
Yes, rear brakes are an issue, particularly if you trail brake into corners. I found myself chewing through rears faster than fronts.
However, you can defeat PTV by turning off all the nannies - needless to say you want to be cautious with this and slowly build your speeds back up. And the car does handle differently with the nannies off.
Bottom left button on the center console turns them off, you will first discover this on a skid pad, because without turning them off you will have a very difficult time forcing oversteer in order to feel the car when it's out of balance.
One more thing, you lose throttle blip when you turn off the nannies. Good luck and be careful
#45
There you go, proof of the great community.....less than an hour and a response!
My Porsche experience
Barber Porsche Master Plus WOW
GT3.... 1 second off my personal best in 5 laps Double WOW
Limited track time...imagine that
GT4.......Triple WOW please don't bash me
Just fun.....Of course not at much grid....Just fun, it seemed to slide around a little.!!!
So the next question, What best setup for C2S?
I know nannies off helps driver development more fun.....but more danger.
BMW has a "Track Mode" that backs the nannies off a little.
Any such thing for Porsche
Sorry for the thread jack
My Porsche experience
Barber Porsche Master Plus WOW
GT3.... 1 second off my personal best in 5 laps Double WOW
Limited track time...imagine that
GT4.......Triple WOW please don't bash me
Just fun.....Of course not at much grid....Just fun, it seemed to slide around a little.!!!
So the next question, What best setup for C2S?
I know nannies off helps driver development more fun.....but more danger.
BMW has a "Track Mode" that backs the nannies off a little.
Any such thing for Porsche
Sorry for the thread jack