Tracking 991.1 S
#61
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hopefully this link will work:
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...ngs-for-991/#a
I purchased parts E, F, and G
I purchased LCAs from TPC Racing, they also helped me figure out the rear suspension. TPC is local to my area.
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...ngs-for-991/#a
I purchased parts E, F, and G
I purchased LCAs from TPC Racing, they also helped me figure out the rear suspension. TPC is local to my area.
#62
Rennlist Member
#63
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I already have a 2wd 996 turbo that's all tracked out but I'd like to have my 991 ready for the track when I don't have it ready or weather is damp.
I've got PDCC w/SPASM and figure with my Tarett Cup front LCAs, some monball tie rods and the rear stuff you've done it will be pretty nice feeling without too much compromise.
Any chance you've done one of these Function First trans mounts:
http://www.function-first.com/produc...s-mount-insert
I love my 18 ways but the temptation to ditch them for some Profis and swap to an Li battery ditches a quick 120lbs...
#64
Intermediate
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Appreciate your responses, I've told myself I'll leave my DD alone but after 18 months and no mods, I'm itching to make it feel more connected without too much street compromise.
I already have a 2wd 996 turbo that's all tracked out but I'd like to have my 991 ready for the track when I don't have it ready or weather is damp.
I've got PDCC w/SPASM and figure with my Tarett Cup front LCAs, some monball tie rods and the rear stuff you've done it will be pretty nice feeling without too much compromise.
Any chance you've done one of these Function First trans mounts:
http://www.function-first.com/produc...s-mount-insert
I love my 18 ways but the temptation to ditch them for some Profis and swap to an Li battery ditches a quick 120lbs...
I already have a 2wd 996 turbo that's all tracked out but I'd like to have my 991 ready for the track when I don't have it ready or weather is damp.
I've got PDCC w/SPASM and figure with my Tarett Cup front LCAs, some monball tie rods and the rear stuff you've done it will be pretty nice feeling without too much compromise.
Any chance you've done one of these Function First trans mounts:
http://www.function-first.com/produc...s-mount-insert
I love my 18 ways but the temptation to ditch them for some Profis and swap to an Li battery ditches a quick 120lbs...
Yes, I have had the medium stiff bushing installed for about 1500 miles, the car has done four track days since install. I like the feel and every instructor who has driven the car says it feels great. There is a bit more noise from the transmission at idle speeds, otherwise its unnoticeable during daily driving. I think it helps make acceleration sharper, but I have no data. I bought the car for track days so I was quick to make some changes, including a numeric short shifter, fabspeed catted headers, Cobb. I had only driven the car about 700 miles before installing the bushings, for what ever that's worth. My dealer installed them in about an hour.
I haven't had the opportunity to track the car with the Pagid RS29's and Girodisc 350mm rotors, but Suncoast sells them as upgrades and I needed new brakes. The car will be doing its next track days in Florida, how do people like this set-up with the 991.1 Carrera S (2014)?
I would like to get 19" wheels but I am unsure about the optimal offset. It seems that there is a range that "works" , but I want to be careful not to change anything with the suspension or performance that Porsche has carefully engineered. Although I may be interested in some elephant racing bushings down the line, but at that point maybe just buy a GT3, but I digress.
What is the optimal offset for track oriented 19" wheels for a 2014 Carrera S?
Last edited by CSTROH; 02-20-2020 at 11:01 PM. Reason: 19"
#65
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes, I have had the medium stiff bushing installed for about 1500 miles, the car has done four track days since install. I like the feel and every instructor who has driven the car says it feels great. There is a bit more noise from the transmission at idle speeds, otherwise its unnoticeable during daily driving. I think it helps make acceleration sharper, but I have no data. I bought the car for track days so I was quick to make some changes, including a numeric short shifter, fabspeed catted headers, Cobb. I had only driven the car about 700 miles before installing the bushings, for what ever that's worth. My dealer installed them in about an hour.
I haven't had the opportunity to track the car with the Pagid RS29's and Girodisc 350mm rotors, but Suncoast sells them as upgrades and I needed new brakes. The car will be doing its next track days in Florida, how do people like this set-up with the 991.1 Carrera S (2014)?
I would like to get 19" wheels but I am unsure about the optimal offset. It seems that there is a range that "works" , but I want to be careful not to change anything with the suspension or performance that Porsche has carefully engineered. Although I may be interested in some elephant racing bushings down the line, but at that point maybe just buy a GT3, but I digress.
What is the optimal offset for track oriented 19" wheels for a 2014 Carrera S?
I haven't had the opportunity to track the car with the Pagid RS29's and Girodisc 350mm rotors, but Suncoast sells them as upgrades and I needed new brakes. The car will be doing its next track days in Florida, how do people like this set-up with the 991.1 Carrera S (2014)?
I would like to get 19" wheels but I am unsure about the optimal offset. It seems that there is a range that "works" , but I want to be careful not to change anything with the suspension or performance that Porsche has carefully engineered. Although I may be interested in some elephant racing bushings down the line, but at that point maybe just buy a GT3, but I digress.
What is the optimal offset for track oriented 19" wheels for a 2014 Carrera S?
I've thought about a set of 19's too, these look right, are lightweight, and currently says pre-order which makes me wonder if there's a group buy here somewhere?
https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...-Fitment-Guide
About 4 years ago I took in my 991s right after buying and did an alignment with the shop I use for my track car and told them to do something more trackish.
Here's what it lost in settings from fall of 2018 to spring of 2020. Before I took it in the previous guy was driving it around way out and the car drove like crap compared to after.
If you've picked up a new to you 991, or anything else for that matter, an alignment can be the best spent improvement in the car.
I'm thinking of some fresh bushings, tie-rods, B16's and a new alignment this spring given the car's got 93k on it now with original suspension and that it would feel great after spending about $5k on a re-fresh.
Or, selling the thing w/under 100k for close to what I paid for it....
![](https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/991_1s_alignment_5_20_3df8dfd1fd28b823de30d080a7bca88d3c54a2cd.jpg)
10.18 to 5.20 change
#66
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great thread here.
I got a second 20" OEM wheelset off craigslist so I could swap tires for track days/season.
Toyo Proxes R888R in 255 front and 315 rear. Great grip. 27-28 psi cold gets me to 36 psi mid session.
Ohlins Road & Track coilovers, mated with Tarret GT3 styler lower control arms up front to run with more camber than stock. Lowered the car 20 mm with this setup.
This suspension/tire change has made a huge difference in how well the car corners.
Using Castrol SRF. Next upgrade is brakes. Still researching. Another thread here has an interesting take on the Sebro rotors with larger pads.
I got a second 20" OEM wheelset off craigslist so I could swap tires for track days/season.
Toyo Proxes R888R in 255 front and 315 rear. Great grip. 27-28 psi cold gets me to 36 psi mid session.
Ohlins Road & Track coilovers, mated with Tarret GT3 styler lower control arms up front to run with more camber than stock. Lowered the car 20 mm with this setup.
This suspension/tire change has made a huge difference in how well the car corners.
Using Castrol SRF. Next upgrade is brakes. Still researching. Another thread here has an interesting take on the Sebro rotors with larger pads.
#67
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
RESPONDING TO AN OLD POST, BUT I HAVE NOTHING BETTER TO DO AT 5:00 AM.
As with everything Porsche, it all comes down to your budget, and how you intend to get to the track, car in/on a trailer, or driving to the track. This determines what tires will work.
Stage I
This is what happens to some drivers, eventually they want to go wheel to wheel racing requiring a track deicated car, drop at least $40,000 on a decent cars, perhaps a Spec Boxster. This way you can install all the safety gear and not worry about street comfort: Roll cage, 5/6 point belts, race seats, fire supression system, kill switch and full on race tires. If you are lucky, you already have a tow vehicle, of course you'll need a trailer...and a place to stash the railer and the car when not at the track...but I digress as usual.
Wish you the best at the track. Keep the Shiny Side Up.
I just did a DE event (2 days) with my 991.1 S on P Zeros and stock brakes. I would like some advice on tires and brakes moving forward as I plan to do about 10 events per year. I drive in the Instructor group and not sure the OEM equipment will hold up. Car will be used 70% DD and 30% DE, about 10K/year total.
Stage I
- Pagid Yellow RS 29 brake pads, NOT cheap but I love them for the track, and for street duty as well, figure $1,000 for parts + installation at your Independent,
- Motul 660 Brake fluid, replace old and flush the total system including the ABD, a PIWIS would help, maybe a dealer chore, $300?
- Sebro slotted rotors from Pelican parts, cheap and sturdy. Maybe $800 for four?
- For hot climates and track duty, add a center radiator from Suncoast Porsche, about $750 + 3 hours + - labor, maybe $1,250 parts and labor
- XPEL the front clip, "A" Pillars, rear fender rock guards,, $2,000 minimum in my SoCal area,
- Install front radiator grill screens. $300 depending on which brand selected.
- Add DSC V3 controller, $1,350,
- Tires, nothing lower than a UTQC 100 rating...if you want longer life, consider UTQC > 200. Brands? Personal preference...so many opinions out there.
- Mild alignment to accomodate the driving patterns you mentoned above, 70% street.
- Track Insurance, maybe $400+ per weekend.
This is what happens to some drivers, eventually they want to go wheel to wheel racing requiring a track deicated car, drop at least $40,000 on a decent cars, perhaps a Spec Boxster. This way you can install all the safety gear and not worry about street comfort: Roll cage, 5/6 point belts, race seats, fire supression system, kill switch and full on race tires. If you are lucky, you already have a tow vehicle, of course you'll need a trailer...and a place to stash the railer and the car when not at the track...but I digress as usual.
Wish you the best at the track. Keep the Shiny Side Up.
The following users liked this post:
d-- (03-07-2022)
#68
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a 991.2S DD that I'm using for HPDE events at COTA. Current setup is Pagid RS 29 pads and stock rotors. Under heavy ABS braking I'm having no problems with overheating/fade. My wear sensor wires do show signs of melting so I know I'm getting the brakes up to temperature. I have 3 weekends on Pirelli N1's and grip is staying consistent with at least another weekend of wear left. Next set will be Nankangs and them I'll try Cup 2's after that. The suspension is fine for me at factory settings.
#69
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had my wear sensors disconnected at my Independent. In the removal process they broke at least two (2) of them. I too run Pagid 29s, $1,000 a set. Whenn it's time for replacement rotors, I am goiung to look for SEBRO slotted. Used them before, wear better and may run cooler.
The following users liked this post:
ktnielsen (03-06-2022)
#70
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This. This is exactly what keeps me from doing it. I already have 3 cars with a 2 car garage, and in the New England winter it’s a PITA whenever it snows. There’s no space to build a 3rd garage, otherwise I would do that, and there’s just not enough vertical space to install a lift, otherwise I’d do that. And naturally there’s not enough space to store a trailer. On the plus side, the DD car is capable of towing 6600lb. That means I’d have to go down the route of finding a garage or storage place, and suddenly I’m in the realm of spending tons of money for something that I do maybe 8-10 times/year.
#71
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am thinking about scooping up a one piece seat for HPDE days as I find myself sliding all over in my 14 ways, removing focus from driving.
Anyone running the OMP WRC-R? I was looking at that vs the Sparco Evo L QRT.
I don't fit well in the Recaro pole position, too tight in shoulders.
Anyone running the OMP WRC-R? I was looking at that vs the Sparco Evo L QRT.
I don't fit well in the Recaro pole position, too tight in shoulders.
#72
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I must assume your are experiencing rattling around in your seat at the track. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, replacing the stock seats is a very expensive proposition, if you do it "right". If you don't do it right, you wont be allowed on the track. In CA with PCA, whatever safety features the driver has installed, the same need be provided for the passenger. You may say, "But I don't plan on taking amy passengers out!" No exceptions, you might....they are very striuct on this rule, and a car will not pass technical inspection if the rule is not followed to the letter: As a result, you are looking at the following expenses:
I have heard there are devices that can cinch tight the 3 way belts; I have yet to locate them. Perhaps a Rennlister will chime in. Sorry for all the bad news.
- Two (2) seats, $1,500 to $10,000
- 1/2 roll cage to attatch the 5/6 point harnesses, about $3,000 or > for the 1/2 roll cage (Cantrell? GMG?), and budget $1,000 for the harnesses, noting so called Harness Bars, from which to attatch the 5/6 point belts bars are unaccepotable to PCA.
- HANS device, about $1,000. If you have installed all of the above, you'll need a HANS device.
I have heard there are devices that can cinch tight the 3 way belts; I have yet to locate them. Perhaps a Rennlister will chime in. Sorry for all the bad news.
Last edited by Martin S.; 03-07-2022 at 03:47 PM.
#73
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I must assume your are experiencing rattling around in your seat at the track. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, replacing the stock seats is a very expensive proposition, if you do it "right". If you don't do it right, you wont be allowed on the track. In CA with PCA, whatever safety features the driver has installed, the same need be provided for the passenger. You may say, "But I don't plan on taking amy passengers out!" No exceptions, you might....they are very striuct on this rule, and a car will not pass technical inspection if the rule is not followed to the letter: As a result, you are looking at the following expenses:
I have heard there are devices that can cinch tight the 3 way belts; I have yet to locate them. Perhaps a Rennlister will chime in. Sorry for all the bad news.
- Two (2) seats, $1,500 to $10,000
- 1/2 roll cage to attatch the 5/6 point harnesses, about $3,000 or > for the 1/2 roll cage (Cantrell? GMG?), and budget $1,000 for the harnesses, noting so called Harness Bars, from which to attatch the 5/6 point belts bars are unaccepotable to PCA.
- HANS device, about $1,000. If you have installed all of the above, you'll need a HANS device.
I have heard there are devices that can cinch tight the 3 way belts; I have yet to locate them. Perhaps a Rennlister will chime in. Sorry for all the bad news.
Going to install two seats, stock belts, no hans, no cage. Turn off airbag light with resistors. We do private rentals, no worries about tech.
#74
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Sounds like you have it figured out. There is a HANS for 3 point belts...$1,000, but worth it if you ever need it. I am going to get one, and just live with my stock seats, don't want to spend the money.
The following users liked this post:
AdamSanta85 (03-07-2022)
#75
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Any thoughts on the Endless RF-650 brake fluid? Was debating this vs Castrol SRF. These two make the Motul 600 seem cheap. I need a fluid that will last me at least a year.
Gathering parts for some track days this spring. Going to do fluid, FVD stainless lines, tires....
Gathering parts for some track days this spring. Going to do fluid, FVD stainless lines, tires....