Tracking 991.1 S
#46
Rennlist Member
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14 track days this season. Changed out new OEM pads after 2 days. I was barely able to get through the next 12 days with Pagid RS29's. OEM rotors cracked out after the first 4 days. Changed them out to Sebro cross drilled rotors (much cheaper than OEM and better). They held up and expect another few days out them before they crack. Ran the season on SC2's. I averaged 35 cycles on each set over two seasons. I run in an intermediate/advanced run group.
#47
Banned
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Just got done with a track day at Laguna - Cup 2 tires worked great with very minimal wear. Replaced them with the MPSS and am enjoying the smoother ride around town.
#48
Intermediate
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I did 8 days (36 sessions) on my 991S. All at Laguna Seca. OEM brakes work fine for me, but only getting 2 days on rear pads and 3 days on front. The SC2’s (245/305) have 23 heat cycles. I’m impressed with the dual-purpose nature of the tire, comfy on the street and works well on the track. I may try the RE71R next time.
Just replaced the rear rotors with Sebro slotted. I have Giro’s for the front that I have not installed yet. They are the 997 turbo spec, 350mm. The OEM caliper can be used with no spacers when the 991 GT3 shape pad is used.
Not sure what brake pad to use. I’m not going to swap pads before and after each track day. And do not want too much street squeak noise. Maybe DS2500….
Ron
991S PDK SPASM PDCC
Just replaced the rear rotors with Sebro slotted. I have Giro’s for the front that I have not installed yet. They are the 997 turbo spec, 350mm. The OEM caliper can be used with no spacers when the 991 GT3 shape pad is used.
Not sure what brake pad to use. I’m not going to swap pads before and after each track day. And do not want too much street squeak noise. Maybe DS2500….
Ron
991S PDK SPASM PDCC
#49
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Ive driven Nurburgring (180 laps), Hochenhemring, Le Mans, Spa and twice at the Porsche Driving School at Liepzig. Mine is a 991.1 C2 Base US spec car, except for replacing P-Zero summers with P-Zeros, the brakes/pads are still good (per Porsche Kaiserslautern), I do have sport/sport+ chrono and the performance package. I've had no issues with tires or brakes. A previous car E92 M3 has contiextremecontact 3, those tires were fanastic!
All recommendations given are superb. One of the owners at a car rental agency at Nurburgring said "Porsche is designed to be driven hard, most other cars require modifications"
All recommendations given are superb. One of the owners at a car rental agency at Nurburgring said "Porsche is designed to be driven hard, most other cars require modifications"
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phefner (01-18-2020)
#50
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I do a LOT of tracking here in Phoenix with my 991.14S.
Changes from OEM to make it track friendly have been:
- track tires 19" R888
- Gyrodiscs rotors
- Yellow Pagids
- Castrol SRF
- added center radiator
- extreme alignment for improved turn in performance (performed by dealer)
Changes from OEM to make it track friendly have been:
- track tires 19" R888
- Gyrodiscs rotors
- Yellow Pagids
- Castrol SRF
- added center radiator
- extreme alignment for improved turn in performance (performed by dealer)
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phefner (01-18-2020)
#51
Rennlist Member
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Happy New Year to all you guys! This thread has provided great information and much to think about.
DSC and TPC Adjustable bars (a lot of convoluted detail follows, for which I apologize, but I think it's too relevant for me to skip):
Shortly after I bought and installed the DSC PASM module on my 991 I added TPC's front and rear adjustable anti-sway/stabilizer bars. The DSC and TPC bars were the last mod I did on the 991 late in the 2016 track season. In combination with the Cobb AP set to 93 Octane- Stage 1 OTS maps, BMC air filters, and Fabspeed X-Pipe with PSE switching, I had only two track days with the DSC/TPC adjustable bars added to the mix. The track was Palmer Motorsports in Massachusetts, USA. Tight track, big elevation changes, some very hard braking corners. I obviously do not have PDCC (cannot use the TPC bars if you have it). I was not thrilled with the turn-in with this set-up, and was hearing a loose, fairly loud clicking sound from the front of the car. A day after the event, with the car up in the air, I discovered that the supplied bottom Heim joints had worked loose on both left and right sides of the front bar. I also noticed that the race shop next to where I worked had selected the wrong setting for the front bar(TPC recommended starting with the second hole from the bar end for the front, but the installer mistakenly used the third hole from the bar end. This meant that the front bar setting was too tight, and therefore NOT set for better turn-in/over-steer, the overall settings being the same holes used on both front and rear bars- third from the end. Also, after looking a bit more carefully at the TPC supplied Heim joints, I decided that they seemed rather unsuitable for long-term survival. This led to ordering four new joints from Pegasus and installing those under no tension with the suspension unloaded. Since there were no more track days left for the 2016 season my Indy Porsche mechanic and I decided to leave the front bar at the third hole from the end (second tightest position) just so I could try to get a feel for the DSC/TPC adjustable bars set-up during road driving, with the plan being to next loosen the front bar to the second hole from the end.
Finally, with both front and rear bars set securely (remember, both are at third hole from bar end/second tightest position) I was able to drive on the road for several days. Overall, the car is quite a bit more responsive with DSC and the the TPC bars, significantly stiffer even in normal PASM(alas, I do not have SPASM) setting. It also seems like there is just a touch more feedback from the steering wheel, but of course since I want this so badly I may very well be using my imagination to confirm my desire. As to turn-in/over-steer, I do not have enough information from back roads driving to be certain, but for 2017 I plan to set the front bar looser to the second from the bar end based on the insufficient turn-in feel I noticed at Palmer. My car is now in hibernation for the winter, and may very well not see any track use during the 2017 season due to coverage issues with my insurance company. I will try the slightly looser front setting on the road and report what it feels like, but it's not at all like getting feedback from a track.
Last point: I had to wrap the rear TPC bar to keep it from rattling against the aluminum cross carrier. That may have been caused by the adjustment choice. Not at all sure.
So far, my take-away thinking from using the DSC is that if you plan to buy the DSC PASM module because you want quicker and better suspension responses, I believe you would benefit from adding adjustable anti-sway/stabilizer bars, with slightly tight rear and slightly loose front settings until you find what works best for you.
DSC and TPC Adjustable bars (a lot of convoluted detail follows, for which I apologize, but I think it's too relevant for me to skip):
Shortly after I bought and installed the DSC PASM module on my 991 I added TPC's front and rear adjustable anti-sway/stabilizer bars. The DSC and TPC bars were the last mod I did on the 991 late in the 2016 track season. In combination with the Cobb AP set to 93 Octane- Stage 1 OTS maps, BMC air filters, and Fabspeed X-Pipe with PSE switching, I had only two track days with the DSC/TPC adjustable bars added to the mix. The track was Palmer Motorsports in Massachusetts, USA. Tight track, big elevation changes, some very hard braking corners. I obviously do not have PDCC (cannot use the TPC bars if you have it). I was not thrilled with the turn-in with this set-up, and was hearing a loose, fairly loud clicking sound from the front of the car. A day after the event, with the car up in the air, I discovered that the supplied bottom Heim joints had worked loose on both left and right sides of the front bar. I also noticed that the race shop next to where I worked had selected the wrong setting for the front bar(TPC recommended starting with the second hole from the bar end for the front, but the installer mistakenly used the third hole from the bar end. This meant that the front bar setting was too tight, and therefore NOT set for better turn-in/over-steer, the overall settings being the same holes used on both front and rear bars- third from the end. Also, after looking a bit more carefully at the TPC supplied Heim joints, I decided that they seemed rather unsuitable for long-term survival. This led to ordering four new joints from Pegasus and installing those under no tension with the suspension unloaded. Since there were no more track days left for the 2016 season my Indy Porsche mechanic and I decided to leave the front bar at the third hole from the end (second tightest position) just so I could try to get a feel for the DSC/TPC adjustable bars set-up during road driving, with the plan being to next loosen the front bar to the second hole from the end.
Finally, with both front and rear bars set securely (remember, both are at third hole from bar end/second tightest position) I was able to drive on the road for several days. Overall, the car is quite a bit more responsive with DSC and the the TPC bars, significantly stiffer even in normal PASM(alas, I do not have SPASM) setting. It also seems like there is just a touch more feedback from the steering wheel, but of course since I want this so badly I may very well be using my imagination to confirm my desire. As to turn-in/over-steer, I do not have enough information from back roads driving to be certain, but for 2017 I plan to set the front bar looser to the second from the bar end based on the insufficient turn-in feel I noticed at Palmer. My car is now in hibernation for the winter, and may very well not see any track use during the 2017 season due to coverage issues with my insurance company. I will try the slightly looser front setting on the road and report what it feels like, but it's not at all like getting feedback from a track.
Last point: I had to wrap the rear TPC bar to keep it from rattling against the aluminum cross carrier. That may have been caused by the adjustment choice. Not at all sure.
So far, my take-away thinking from using the DSC is that if you plan to buy the DSC PASM module because you want quicker and better suspension responses, I believe you would benefit from adding adjustable anti-sway/stabilizer bars, with slightly tight rear and slightly loose front settings until you find what works best for you.
#52
Former Vendor
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Great thread!
I will share my personal experiences: before I got into GT3/GT4 ownership I rocked a 2012 991S as hard as I could. My former employer (EVOMS before joining Vivid) used it for a tuning and development car so I needed a way to take advantage of added power of tuning, as a base level PASM car, it greatly benefitted the following setup for use as a time trial and track toy :
-Tuning helped with a nice mid range power curve augmentation
-TPC Sways bars
-DSCSport DSC Controller
-KW H.A.S.
-Girodisc 991 rotors front and rear
-Pagid RS29 pads
-Tarret camber hats
-powergridinc end links
-tranny bushing insert by Function First
made a great car even better once you get the alignment right with a track day wheels and tire setup. I did a rear seat delete for a few lbs of saving and ran it with a CG-Lock
If you have any questions, I'd be pleased to share anything I didn't on that cars setup
I'm in the process of adding a bunch new brands to Vivid, stuff that you probably never thought Vivid would sell, but they have me there now, so I'm going to try to pick up many of the brands and stuff I like and use.
Be sure to reach me if you are interested in any of this stuff!
I will share my personal experiences: before I got into GT3/GT4 ownership I rocked a 2012 991S as hard as I could. My former employer (EVOMS before joining Vivid) used it for a tuning and development car so I needed a way to take advantage of added power of tuning, as a base level PASM car, it greatly benefitted the following setup for use as a time trial and track toy :
-Tuning helped with a nice mid range power curve augmentation
-TPC Sways bars
-DSCSport DSC Controller
-KW H.A.S.
-Girodisc 991 rotors front and rear
-Pagid RS29 pads
-Tarret camber hats
-powergridinc end links
-tranny bushing insert by Function First
made a great car even better once you get the alignment right with a track day wheels and tire setup. I did a rear seat delete for a few lbs of saving and ran it with a CG-Lock
If you have any questions, I'd be pleased to share anything I didn't on that cars setup
I'm in the process of adding a bunch new brands to Vivid, stuff that you probably never thought Vivid would sell, but they have me there now, so I'm going to try to pick up many of the brands and stuff I like and use.
Be sure to reach me if you are interested in any of this stuff!
#53
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Good advice from everyone....
I run Bridgestone RE-71R Tires however... found them superior than the CUP 2's..
Also my 911 tracking
my channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpy..._as=subscriber
I run Bridgestone RE-71R Tires however... found them superior than the CUP 2's..
Also my 911 tracking
my channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpy..._as=subscriber
#54
Rennlist Member
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Great thread glad to see it’s still in use.
Has anyone added brake ducts to help dissipate some heat in the rotors? I’m thinking that might help some with the cracked rotors some have reported, and help the OEM setup perform over a 30 minute session.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Has anyone added brake ducts to help dissipate some heat in the rotors? I’m thinking that might help some with the cracked rotors some have reported, and help the OEM setup perform over a 30 minute session.
Any thoughts appreciated.
#55
Rennlist Member
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Any thoughts on the Endless RF-650 brake fluid? Was debating this vs Castrol SRF. These two make the Motul 600 seem cheap. I need a fluid that will last me at least a year.
Gathering parts for some track days this spring. Going to do fluid, FVD stainless lines, tires....
Gathering parts for some track days this spring. Going to do fluid, FVD stainless lines, tires....
#56
Rennlist Member
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I made a few more changes last year as I transitioned over to slicks. I run slicks on 19” wheels, the tires are Pirelli DH and the sizes are:
315/705/19 rear
275/675/19 front
This leaves about a 1/2” gap around the wheel wells but it seems to work and I get very little rubbing. Note that my car has Sport PASM which means it sits a little lower so if you have standard PASM you should see another 10mm of gap.
To makes this work I had to replace the LCA with GT3 parts so that I could adjust from camber as much as I needed. Settled on -2.75 degrees.
For the rear end I replaced 3 of the 5 bushings (per side) with hard monoballs, I got these from Elephant Racing. This gave me more camber as the main mono ball was more eccentric giving me more options. I settled on -2.25 degrees.
This along with the racing seats completely changed my car. You can feel everything and it sticks like no ones’ business. The evidence is in passing GT3s on the track (in the turns, can’t beat a 100 HP differential with suspension changes).
315/705/19 rear
275/675/19 front
This leaves about a 1/2” gap around the wheel wells but it seems to work and I get very little rubbing. Note that my car has Sport PASM which means it sits a little lower so if you have standard PASM you should see another 10mm of gap.
To makes this work I had to replace the LCA with GT3 parts so that I could adjust from camber as much as I needed. Settled on -2.75 degrees.
For the rear end I replaced 3 of the 5 bushings (per side) with hard monoballs, I got these from Elephant Racing. This gave me more camber as the main mono ball was more eccentric giving me more options. I settled on -2.25 degrees.
This along with the racing seats completely changed my car. You can feel everything and it sticks like no ones’ business. The evidence is in passing GT3s on the track (in the turns, can’t beat a 100 HP differential with suspension changes).
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008 (01-13-2020)
#57
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I made a few more changes last year as I transitioned over to slicks. I run slicks on 19” wheels, the tires are Pirelli DH and the sizes are:
315/705/19 rear
275/675/19 front
This leaves about a 1/2” gap around the wheel wells but it seems to work and I get very little rubbing. Note that my car has Sport PASM which means it sits a little lower so if you have standard PASM you should see another 10mm of gap.
To makes this work I had to replace the LCA with GT3 parts so that I could adjust from camber as much as I needed. Settled on -2.75 degrees.
For the rear end I replaced 3 of the 5 bushings (per side) with hard monoballs, I got these from Elephant Racing. This gave me more camber as the main mono ball was more eccentric giving me more options. I settled on -2.25 degrees.
This along with the racing seats completely changed my car. You can feel everything and it sticks like no ones’ business. The evidence is in passing GT3s on the track (in the turns, can’t beat a 100 HP differential with suspension changes).
315/705/19 rear
275/675/19 front
This leaves about a 1/2” gap around the wheel wells but it seems to work and I get very little rubbing. Note that my car has Sport PASM which means it sits a little lower so if you have standard PASM you should see another 10mm of gap.
To makes this work I had to replace the LCA with GT3 parts so that I could adjust from camber as much as I needed. Settled on -2.75 degrees.
For the rear end I replaced 3 of the 5 bushings (per side) with hard monoballs, I got these from Elephant Racing. This gave me more camber as the main mono ball was more eccentric giving me more options. I settled on -2.25 degrees.
This along with the racing seats completely changed my car. You can feel everything and it sticks like no ones’ business. The evidence is in passing GT3s on the track (in the turns, can’t beat a 100 HP differential with suspension changes).
Now I will have the horsepower and the grip.... should be VERY fast.
Im going to do what you did above to the 991.2 S and than upgrade the Turbo's if I need more speed
#58
Former Vendor
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For me, I like the SRF
I'm also personally a fan of the camber hats Tarret sells for these-not on my site but we can get them too see link in post #52-there is a fair amount of compliance in the oem C2 hats that's not present on a GT3
I also like the idea of the LCA and adjustable camber using shims
We offer these also:
https://www.vividracing.com/-p-15137...hoCSswQAvD_BwE
As always, contact me for lower than the internet pricing in the link above
Thanks
I'm also personally a fan of the camber hats Tarret sells for these-not on my site but we can get them too see link in post #52-there is a fair amount of compliance in the oem C2 hats that's not present on a GT3
I also like the idea of the LCA and adjustable camber using shims
We offer these also:
https://www.vividracing.com/-p-15137...hoCSswQAvD_BwE
As always, contact me for lower than the internet pricing in the link above
Thanks
Last edited by VividRacing; 01-17-2020 at 01:28 PM.
#59
Rennlist Member
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I made a few more changes last year as I transitioned over to slicks. I run slicks on 19” wheels, the tires are Pirelli DH and the sizes are:
315/705/19 rear
275/675/19 front
This leaves about a 1/2” gap around the wheel wells but it seems to work and I get very little rubbing. Note that my car has Sport PASM which means it sits a little lower so if you have standard PASM you should see another 10mm of gap.
To makes this work I had to replace the LCA with GT3 parts so that I could adjust from camber as much as I needed. Settled on -2.75 degrees.
For the rear end I replaced 3 of the 5 bushings (per side) with hard monoballs, I got these from Elephant Racing. This gave me more camber as the main mono ball was more eccentric giving me more options. I settled on -2.25 degrees.
This along with the racing seats completely changed my car. You can feel everything and it sticks like no ones’ business. The evidence is in passing GT3s on the track (in the turns, can’t beat a 100 HP differential with suspension changes).
315/705/19 rear
275/675/19 front
This leaves about a 1/2” gap around the wheel wells but it seems to work and I get very little rubbing. Note that my car has Sport PASM which means it sits a little lower so if you have standard PASM you should see another 10mm of gap.
To makes this work I had to replace the LCA with GT3 parts so that I could adjust from camber as much as I needed. Settled on -2.75 degrees.
For the rear end I replaced 3 of the 5 bushings (per side) with hard monoballs, I got these from Elephant Racing. This gave me more camber as the main mono ball was more eccentric giving me more options. I settled on -2.25 degrees.
This along with the racing seats completely changed my car. You can feel everything and it sticks like no ones’ business. The evidence is in passing GT3s on the track (in the turns, can’t beat a 100 HP differential with suspension changes).
I'm thinking of running my DD 991.1s on the track a little this year.
Since it has ~70k on it, I figure I'll put on fresh tie rods and fresh ends on my Tarett LCA's from my track 996t (swapping to Cup parts on it).
Did you do OE GT3 LCAs?
I think the OE ones with some rubber might be the better choice for a car I still DD as they hold up better to the miles and street conditions.
#60
Rennlist Member
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Hopefully this link will work:
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...ngs-for-991/#a
I purchased parts E, F, and G
I purchased LCAs from TPC Racing, they also helped me figure out the rear suspension. TPC is local to my area.
https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...ngs-for-991/#a
I purchased parts E, F, and G
I purchased LCAs from TPC Racing, they also helped me figure out the rear suspension. TPC is local to my area.