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Wish I lived closer to Lunarx. I'd give him $2,000 and a case of double black IPA and say "go at it, Master Obi Wan!". Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist
ctporsche, I'd be happy to send that Sub to you.
Just do let me know how it turns out. robbieracer is definitely a hero, I can't even imagine how good his system must sound
However, at that price point, the Burmester sub might be worth looking at.
Something else I noticed, was that the 5" Focal Sub was a little smaller, than the Bose, requiring new mounting holes, on a smaller diameter bolt circle.
If JL has a cut-out template, you could compare to the Bose hole pattern.
It also has a better cost, so maybe 2 advantages.
Sound wise, it may not be in the same league as the $500 choices, but you never know.
I listed some amps in an earlier post [#4].
I believe you would feed their High Level Inputs, from the L&R Door Woofers.
You could gain access to those wires under the passenger seat.
You may need to pull the door card to get the wire colors and then of course confirm with a test signal.
Cool thing, about adding an amp, is you can then pick your Sub Crossover point and add a remote Gain ****.
I was looking forward to all that, but since the Bose Amp did such a great job, I decided to let it be.
Please keep me posted and let me know if I can be of any help
There is not much I won't do for a case of double black IPA
I hoped I didn't make any of it seem over complicated, as I believe anyone here could do this project, if they wanted to.
I would gladly help someone local.
For those not nearby, feel free to ask about any part, that needs more clarification, and I will gladly elaborate further.
I admit, I did learn some things the hard way.
Even those kick panels have a trick to removal, that it not so intuitive.
chuck911,
You are right about the midrange.
I think that is why I drop the tweeter level, so as not to drown out the mids.
I believe the mids mostly have issue, because of being low and back in the door.
That is a lot of physical separation from the tweeters, so the time alignment is thrown way off, in addition to being very far off axis to the listener.
Bose Surround Mode seems to mask the timing issue (otherwise I would not use Surround mode).
With all this change in the system, I might appreciate a reality check of getting to listen to a stock Bose system again, for comparison.
With each change a new area becomes the weakest link.
Right now I'd say that is, the Door Woofers, and they are honestly not too bad (just a tad loose).
If I ever get the door cards off, I may consider retrofitting the Burmester Door Woofers.
At that point, I might add an amp, to drive the Door Woofers and the Sub.
Or I might just quit, while I am ahead...
Quit while you're ahead. Except I still think it'd be worth checking out the power supply wiring to the amps. If they are (it is?) small gauge and not too hard to replace that'll be worth a shot.
ctporsche, I'd be happy to send that Sub to you.
Just do let me know how it turns out. robbieracer is definitely a hero, I can't even imagine how good his system must sound
However, at that price point, the Burmester sub might be worth looking at.
Something else I noticed, was that the 5" Focal Sub was a little smaller, than the Bose, requiring new mounting holes, on a smaller diameter bolt circle.
Not sure, but perhaps this JL 5-1/4 could align better with existing mounting holes.
If JL has a cut-out template, you could compare to the Bose hole pattern.
It also has a better cost, so maybe 2 advantages.
Sound wise, it may not be in the same league as the $500 choices, but you never know.
I listed some amps in an earlier post [#4].
I believe you would feed their High Level Inputs, from the L&R Door Woofers.
You could gain access to those wires under the passenger seat.
You may need to pull the door card to get the wire colors and then of course confirm with a test signal.
Cool thing, about adding an amp, is you can then pick your Sub Crossover point and add a remote Gain ****.
I was looking forward to all that, but since the Bose Amp did such a great job, I decided to let it be.
Please keep me posted and let me know if I can be of any help
Thanks. You are the best, lunarx. I will research and contemplate my choices (but probably once my 991S comes out of winter hibernation...) and will keep you posted... I better send you some double black IPA.
As a reference point you guys may also like to check out the install I did in my Boxster. Being a sound engineer I was never happy with the BOSE and ripped the entire system out and went with the best components I could find, not only for the best quality sound but also to be able to hear the flaws in songs so I can hear where they need to be improved.
The components I chose were also chosen by other world class producers and musicians whom Auto Audio in London have done installs for.
As a reference point you guys may also like to check out the install I did in my Boxster. Being a sound engineer I was never happy with the BOSE and ripped the entire system out and went with the best components I could find, not only for the best quality sound but also to be able to hear the flaws in songs so I can hear where they need to be improved.
The components I chose were also chosen by other world class producers and musicians whom Auto Audio in London have done installs for.
So It seems I got lucky and won a full set of the Burmester speakers removed from a 2014 car for £150!!!
So I think I will swap all the speakers, do I need to change the grill in the back or are they the same?
I assume if I do a complet swap I should really change both amps? Any idea if the car will needed to be coded? Does the Burmester have any other parts other than the obvious?
Cool, it seems like some of you will be getting into this.
I updated my post #57 with some extra info on how to get the lower dash panel loose for sub access.
normantooth, it seems you scored on those speakers.
to answer some of your questions:
According to PET, I don't see any difference in rear speaker grills.
It seems one grille works for all sound system options.
I'm not sure about PCM being coded to the amps.
I only know that I unplugged my Sub Amp and the PCM seemed none the wiser.
I thought about changing my Sub Amp to the Burmester Sub Amp but I worry the connectors won't match.
Same for the Main Amp.
The Bose Sub Amp appears to use very standard wiring:
Power, Ground, Signal In (not sure if it's Hi or Lo level), Speaker Out and Remote.
That makes it easy to replace with an aftermarket amp, if desired (with just basic splicing of wires).
Below are the pics, I took of the Bose Sub Amp.
Aside from the Speakers and Amps there is a specific PCM, for Burmester.
However, that might just be a flash.
Either way, low probability of getting the dealer to re-flah it.
clutchplate, what an awesome system!!!
I wish I could do that.
Did you meet the criteria that for a system to be awesome it has to exceed the value of the car?
Edit: Now that I took more time reading your linked post;
Your system cost was far less than I thought.
Seems like a huge bang for buck.
I like that you kept it to the minimum quantity of speakers and used the best stuff.
So good to hear from another Alan Watts fan. I haven't read his books, only listened to hours and hours of his talks on youtube. He may be dead, but his thoughts are very much alive. Which is fitting I guess for the man who said you never really die, you are the eternal thing that comes and goes.
02-01-2015, 03:08 PM
