Are the jack point plates completely stable on the jack throughout the lift? Any tendency to slip/shift? If not, is there a design element that prevents that or is it solely dependent on the functionality of the jack? If the plate shifts during the lift as the jack transitions under the car (floor jacks) the car could fall off the jack. Thanks.

 

Jumping-in late for sure, but just the other day put my car up on 4 stands and do not own the jackstand product. I found that I had no issue whatsoever with lifting from a few inches in front of the rear jack-point with my 2-ton floor jack and a hockey puck. Didn't bend the pinch weld even though I didn't modify the puck either. The puck simply deformed to the shape of the weld. Have been doing this for years without issue. However I wouldn't recommend doing this any longer than you need to get the stand in place under the jack point though, to be on the safe side. But I will add that as a safety, when car is up on 4 stands especially, I always place my floor jacks in the same position, just about a "smidgen" from making contact with the pinch weld, so if for some reason the car moves from the stand I have back-up!

Oh, and might as well state that my other safety back-up are putting the wheels under the car and chocking of course! But this is all mainly for when I know I have to be completely under the car for more than a few minutes.....

 

Plenum.....Your hands on knowledge sincerely appreciated!

Thank you

 

You can also use pinch weld jack adapters for VW, Subaru, Mazda, etc. I've been using the yellow VW one on my e30 M3 for years.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/3312800...lpid=82&chn=ps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2312991...lpid=82&chn=ps

 

Yes they are, as there is a 'centering pin' that sticks out above the rubber pad and you align that pin into the hole on the factory lift points. They are rock solid and so wide, and stout, it would be impossible for the car to come off the jackpoint plate if they are properly aligned on the car for the lift.

 

Say's the guy who buys lemon BMW's to get a deal...

https://rennlist.com/forums/991/8479...l#post11867821

EDIT:

If it's not already obvious, PM drcollie for Jackpoint jack stands - he's their unpaid (I think?) sales rep.

 

 

EDIT: drcollie decided to send me a nasty PM a few minutes ago..

deleted the content from his post ...but reported to admin none the less.

 

Hothonda, it's against Forum rules to publicly post PMs. You should delete your post. 2wrongs don't = a right.

Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

 

Thank you...

 

I don't think there should be any true fighting here. All the OP was looking to get resolved is any alternatives to the Jack Point option. I'm not sure what the issue is with that?

There's guys here that spend 20K on filling up the whole car with leather, but balk at a $600 yearly service visit.

Spend 150K on a car, and try to think of ways to save $300 on getting unapproved tires.

You get the picture.

Whatever the OP's reasoning is, what does it matter? It's good to have multiple ways of getting from point A to B I would think. It benefits everyone sharing ideas.

 

Ditto!

 

Only semi related perhaps, but I had my first all four tire change yesterday at the local Discount Tire. Rather than use their drive-on "plate" lifts, four techs each manned a jack at all four jack points and they lifted the car in unison. Car was like that for around 30-45 minutes while they swapped out the tires.
Of course, I don't have four jacks and wouldn't get under the car using that method, just an anecdote.

 

FYI. This is exactly how the Tire Rack does all their cars in South Bend, IN.

 

I don't want to hijack the thread or offend the OP - but to answer this question in more detail - you should use a jack with a saddle (lift plate) having a diameter of 3.5" - 5". There is a recess in the underside of the pad that fits over the jack saddle to prevent it from slipping off the jack as you lift (visible in the avatar picture). It's designed that way because jacks don't always roll easily on paddock roads. If the jack doesn't relocate as you lift, the car can creep off the jack and fall leaving a good sized dent in the rocker panel. Our pad locks into the chassis and won't slide off the jack.

I certainly understand the OP's position and he is not alone or out of line in my opinion. I receive MANY comments about the price of the jack stands being too high. I understand those comments - they are 10 times what you'd pay for some jack stands. I'll just say this. Starting with $60 worth of raw material - it takes 4-5 guys working at US wages 1 day to make 5 - 6 pairs of basic castings. We had a 6.5% price increase from the manufacturing foundry last October notwithstanding our largest volume ever. There is NO discount for volume. To put it in perspective - I shopped US foundries last year and was quoted as much as $306/pair for raw castings at the loading dock. No quotes came in that would touch the current costs - even with the increase. We are always looking for a less expensive way to make them.