Notices
991 2012-2019
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Vario cam valve lift solenoid?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-02-2016, 03:26 PM
  #16  
Noah Fect
Rennlist Member
 
Noah Fect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,243
Received 1,298 Likes on 886 Posts
Default

Well, there's your problem. Your cam shaft fell out.

Dealers...
Old 07-04-2016, 08:59 PM
  #17  
mdrobc1213
Rennlist Member
 
mdrobc1213's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The South
Posts: 3,369
Received 721 Likes on 391 Posts
Default

watching...
Old 07-09-2016, 11:44 AM
  #18  
Roosell
Rennlist Member
 
Roosell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Roosell
Now I’ve had gentler, milder, fleeting events happen before that I now recognize as similar to what others are describing.


I’ll come back later with some information on the intermittent events I now recognize were short term malfunctions of this part, which preceded the outright failures I’ve experienced.
The events I believe were precursors to the full failure of this part were (as I recall) at lower road speeds, and with the engine RPM also in the lower range. Almost certainly under 3,000 RPM, and probably under 2,500. Sorry I can't be more precise.

I would feel shuddering and vibration, throttle response would be lethargic, and that would snap my attention to the gauges. No warnings came up on these lesser events. The sensation would be considerably less dramatic than the two times the part has failed and required replacement, but still similar. That's the reason I think the two types of events are related. Back to these events: Reflexively I would pop the transmission into neutral and rev the engine, much like you would do to clear out the carburetors of an older car or 2 stroke motorbike. The event would be over in just a few seconds, the car would return to working as normal, and I would feel dumb. "Did that just happen?"

This happened a minimum of twice (I know it happened once with my wife in the car, and once by myself) and possibly three times between the first replacement of this part and the second failure. Unfortunately I do not recall if it happened before the first failure and replacement. I have not experienced any malfunctions of any sort since this second replacement, though I have only driven a couple of hundred miles. If anything else happens on this topic, I'll come back and post.
Old 06-12-2017, 05:32 PM
  #19  
NiteJav
Burning Brakes
 
NiteJav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 847
Received 288 Likes on 170 Posts
Default I ran into the exact issue.

When the car was warmed up (30 minute drive) at some traffic lights or times I came to a stop the car would almost stall. I have a (PDK car) and it was like a person was learning to drive stick behind the wheel and not working the clutch very well. The car would almost stall, the engine would shake the whole car because it got down so low rpm wise. Craziness. It was a royal pia to replicate because it would do it intermittently.

I drive to the dealer, no problems, (of course) 10 minutes from the dealer after they cleared all codes (I had a bunch of misfires recorded), re-adapted the throttle, the problem came back in full force. So I drove back to the dealer again. More misfires, and I was able to recreate it for a tech. They ordered parts on Friday got my car back today (Monday). Pretty good turn around on their end.

So far so good, it was really hot out and the drive home no issues. I could even tell when off throttle the car felt way smoother. So far so good, will report back when I do my usual drive that set this thing off in the first place.

Replacement Part Number:
9A1-105-308-03



Seems this part number has been revised more then once. Keep in mind I have a '14 C4 with 48k miles.
Old 12-29-2018, 02:55 PM
  #20  
adnanm3
Advanced
 
adnanm3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 93
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I believe I am too having this issue.
I have a 2013 3.4 with under 30k miles
I am noticing a rough/stumbling idle and throwing the code p0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1)
I also have a "stored code" p1382 - which comes up as valve lift in Bank 1 according to Porsche

My assumption is I need to have the valve lift solenoid in bank 1. Has anyone with this issue had similar codes?
Old 12-29-2018, 05:17 PM
  #21  
Stevie
Advanced
 
Stevie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Huntington, NY
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by adnanm3
I believe I am too having this issue.
I have a 2013 3.4 with under 30k miles
I am noticing a rough/stumbling idle and throwing the code p0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1)
I also have a "stored code" p1382 - which comes up as valve lift in Bank 1 according to Porsche

My assumption is I need to have the valve lift solenoid in bank 1. Has anyone with this issue had similar codes?
I've had the p0172 (plus B1 RICH, P301 MISFIRE 1, P0302 MISFIIRE 2,PO303 MISFIRE 3, P0300 TOTAL, 00418 PSM CONTROL UNIT. PDK: P199A IMPLAUSIBLE ENGINE TORQUE). Replaced the solenoid 9A1-105-308--03 $176. & $472. labor in 9/14/16 and not had any trouble since.

Best_stevie
Old 12-29-2018, 06:33 PM
  #22  
VII7
Racer
 
VII7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: TX
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 124 Likes on 82 Posts
Default

A few pointers:
- Someone previously noted they had this problem twice, it is likely only one solenoid was changed and then the other one failed. It is strange these parts are failing so early but it is common for them to fail close to one another.
- Part is only about $140 and replacement is easy as part is held by two bolts on outside of engine and access is ok
- Switching sides (as done by the tech) is an easy way to diagnose (if fault follows)
- This part controls valve timming so on failure the mixture will be incorrect and engine will misfire, damage is possible so avoid driving if misfiring
Old 12-29-2018, 09:06 PM
  #23  
adnanm3
Advanced
 
adnanm3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 93
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by VII7
A few pointers:
- Someone previously noted they had this problem twice, it is likely only one solenoid was changed and then the other one failed. It is strange these parts are failing so early but it is common for them to fail close to one another.
- Part is only about $140 and replacement is easy as part is held by two bolts on outside of engine and access is ok
- Switching sides (as done by the tech) is an easy way to diagnose (if fault follows)
- This part controls valve timming so on failure the mixture will be incorrect and engine will misfire, damage is possible so avoid driving if misfiring
thanks. I'll probably just order both in that case. Is there any DIY on this? I wasnt able to find one in my search
Old 12-29-2018, 09:38 PM
  #24  
VII7
Racer
 
VII7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: TX
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 124 Likes on 82 Posts
Default

You might be on the unique position to create one. Part is on top side of engine on either side, remove wing for easier access.
​​
Old 12-29-2018, 09:46 PM
  #25  
VII7
Racer
 
VII7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: TX
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 124 Likes on 82 Posts
Default

Not quite but there is:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...4-5-6-a-4.html

Do create one if you get a chance
Old 12-29-2018, 11:06 PM
  #26  
adnanm3
Advanced
 
adnanm3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 93
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by VII7
Not quite but there is:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...4-5-6-a-4.html

Do create one if you get a chance
thank you!
I wish I did this before swapping my exhaust. It seems removing the bumper and mufflers is necessary to get this done, correct?
Old 12-29-2018, 11:20 PM
  #27  
VII7
Racer
 
VII7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: TX
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 124 Likes on 82 Posts
Default

I have not done this myself but you shouldn't have to on this platform.
Old 02-26-2019, 05:02 AM
  #28  
driven996
Track Day
 
driven996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Glad it was fixed for $183 for you. Lucky men! I paid $3100 to have it diagnosed and resolved. Kind of annoyed but I like the Service Adviser. I wish you folks would post the error codes too so that in the future folks can point to them. Lastly any idea for those who had to change the solonoid, if they also had Air Oil Separator issue in the past. That was $1311 only months ago. This has been an expensive car for me.
Old 08-01-2020, 08:29 AM
  #29  
rnl
Burning Brakes
 
rnl's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Glenmoore, Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,141
Received 414 Likes on 180 Posts
Default

I too am experiencing the P1382 stored code. Car has 95000 miles and an appointment on 8/10 at the dealer....I will print out your descriptions of the problem as they are exactly what the car is doing and I would not be able to explain it better! Thanks all!!
The following users liked this post:
morefun (09-16-2023)
Old 08-18-2022, 02:56 AM
  #30  
Sunseeker09
Advanced
 
Sunseeker09's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Espoo, Finland
Posts: 64
Received 30 Likes on 14 Posts
Default

A bit late to the discussion but if it can help anyone in the future. Got a 2009 C4 PDK. Really rough idle. Basically the car was misfiring at idle (but not always when putting load on the engine).
Diagnosed with a bank 2 Vario Cam solenoid going bad. Now I don't know if the fix will work as they need to keep the car for up to 2 weeks (shop if full of Taycan having software update...).
It was combined with a PDK that needed reprogramming (and a lot of other stuff I am suing the seller for )



Quick Reply: Vario cam valve lift solenoid?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 01:13 AM.